Grinding

Joined
Jan 7, 2002
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614
When grinding a tanto blade, do I grind one side to the edge or is there a centre line that the edge meets from grind work on each side of the blade. I hope this isn't too confusing to understand. If need be, ask me to try again.
 
You mean is it chisel ground or ground on both sides? You can make tanto's either way.
 
Okay,

What do you recommend... chisel ground or both sides? I'm looking for simplicity, but also an attractive appearance. What's more common? Thanks for the info!
 
a chisel (grind) is one sided. most of the tantos you see are ground incorrectly. for a riht hander, (while holding the blade in you right) you want to grind the oppisite or reverse side. this puts the flat on the inside of the body were there is more control. :) happy grinding.
 
Does this mean that when holding the knife in your right hand, the ground edge is facing away from your body? Most tanto's I've seen would be for lefty's if this were the case.
 
you are correct. the reason is so they can put the logo on the ground side and it look's cool:cool: it is not about function. you will hear some thing about it being(tactical) ? but it has a lot more to do with fashion than fuction. you or someone you know may have said something about these lefty grinds, like "the blade roll's over on me!" when its held in you right hand.
 
this can also be double-sided as chang pointed out. flat grind or hollow. its a little hazy if this style as we know it, ever exsisted in japan? it mostly is a modern design. from u.s. makers
 
I'm not sure either if it ever existed in Japan. I can't say I'm crazy about chisel grind blades. I have two, a damascus sword I made and an Emerson Spec War. Both take a razor edge but they just don't feel or look right to me.:barf:
 
I've seen many japanese originals and I've never, ever, seen one with a chisel grind (even if I know that some extremely rare examples did exist), or a chisel point, for what matters.
What is a chisel point on many "tactical" folders around is actually two edges that meet at an angle.
Original japanese blades had two differently curved lines meeting at a certain point in the blade, and there's an enormous difference in efficiency and sturdiness.

Actually I find the only real advantage in modern ground "tanto" points is that having to cut heavy materials like leather, the angle in the edge comes handy, but it gets dull quickly and subsequent resharpenings, no matter how well you do them, tend to round it out.
There's really no advantage in my experience in such design.
Poor penetrating shape, poor cutting shape (more often than not these blades have a completely straight edge) and you must use great care in resharpening.

True, this point is extremely sturdy, but I don't plan going around stabbing tanks on daily basis, nor know anybody who needs to do so. It's a design that came out due to fashion, generated by interest for oriental-shaped blades and their supposed (mythical) superior quality and the need for cheap mass production techniques.

An oriental (japanese) blade is truly made with superior metallurgy, used to produce a blade which is perfect for a given, very narrow, set of uses. Actually most katanas are more delicate and prone to bending than most western styled swords.
Myth, again, is the keyword.
They are extremely beautiful blades, very effective in slicing, but we can't and must not ask them to perform tasks they weren't conceived to perform.
Japanese blades were NOT conceived to stab. Their point wasn't that way to allow powerful stabs and penetration into samuari armor. that's MYTH. A katana used to stab armor would almost invariably bend, or even break.
Not even all katanas had that point style.
Katanas were made to CUT. Occasional stabs to face, neck and armpits or underarm were made, but they were opportunity strikes, not what you wanted to achieve.
So, saying that "tanto" points are the ideal shape for powerful stabs is complete nonsense.
We have plenty of examples of weapons made for powerful stabs: what many knife firms have been saying in the last ten years or so has no relevance in front of centuries of evidence, of field proven designs, of weapons used to kill armored opponents again and again, year after year, decade after decade, century after century.
None of them, not even one, has a "tanto" point.

If you intend to realize traditionally styled japanese blades, go for the traditional (symmetrical) grind, apple seed style.
If you want to make modern styled tantos, then you can use whichever grind you prefer.
Chisel grind depends on the fact the user will be right or left handed, is cheaper, faster to do but has several drawbacks. The fact that it sharpens better than traditional grind is only, I'm afraid, due to myth (again) and/or very poor sharpening skill of those who state so.

I'd leave chisel grind for the tools it was developed for: chisels, and grind my knives as knives, they have been ground this way for many thousands years, and who am I to say that all those smiths were idiots?:)
 
The bali blade I plan on making will have a chisel ground edge. It just seems simpler for someone who is attempting his first blade from scratch. Take a look at some of Phil Hartsfelds work if you can find pictures. Many of his blades are chisel ground and are supposed to cut like nothing else. I have no personal experience, just read an article a few years ago.
 
these grinds work great for certain things, when done correctly. i make a sahimi culinary knife that is a chisel, there are lots of (DEBA) culinary blades. they are chisel ground but don't have the paint chipper tip. also a well know maker and one that ground chisel ground working knife's is phil hartsfield. a inovator in handmade knife's he was grinding chisel grinds over twenty year's ago and his stuff is very collectable as well.
 
Just out of curiosity, is Phil Hartsfeld still making blades? I dont recall seeing any of his adds recently.
 
it is pain physics, if you have two .22 degree angles on a double sided grind you have a total of 44 degrees. if you have a one sided grind that is 22 degrees at the edge, you have 22 degrees in with of cutting serface. sushi chefs, people that do plant grafting and others preffer this grind, as far as i know phil hartsfield is still making but he has such a waiting list he may not advertize any more.
 
I like hollow grinds best,flat grinds are good too. They ( hollow grinds)just have always seemed sharpest. Hollows are easier to sharpen when needed. A nice width of this steel that you can sharpen over and over and still have thin steel to resharpen again. However, they are'nt traditional, especially for tanto's. Sharpest knives I have ever owned were always hollow ground. Soe chisels were fine but I have noticed some knifemakers while very good at fit and finish just can't make a sharp enough knife. Especially when it comes to chisel and convex type of grinds. Good luck.....RDT
 
I have a thick bladed folding skinner sharpened to about 50 degrees (symmetrical) for heavy work, and a pattada knife with a blade 10° thin for slicing thin and such tasks. It works well as any chisel grind, more it doesn't matters if you are left or right handed :)
Chisel grind is good on kitchen knives, chisels and some specialty knives (knives which are used for one task, and one only).
In my vew a knife is one of the most multi-purpose ityems you can own, and must have a blade that performs well in any situation.
It doesn't need to be "perfect", just to do its job. A chisel grind prevents this. Chisel grind today is no more than a fashion big firms were happy to ride as it cuts down production costs. Very little people among those who buy a chisel ground knife actually need a chisel ground knife, and more often than not they buy the wrong sided chisel grind edge anyway.
Does it make a knife "tactical"?
What's tactical anyway? If you were assaulted in your house and grabbed a good solingen kitchen knife, that would be "tactical".
Certain knives are better than others at certain tasks, but a good knife should perform any task at least decently.
 
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