Grinds

[XtianAus]

I am trying to wrap my head around the difference between a scandi grind with a microbevel and a sabre grind.

Is there a difference between the angle portion from the end of the grind down to the edge between the two? Or is the difterence to do with the very edge only?

 

[Weiss]

Here's a visual aid. You'll notice no secondary, itty-bitty bevel at the pointy edge of the scandi grind. That's the difference. No secondary bevel. In other words, when sharpening a scandi edge, you sharpen the whole giant portion of that edge, both sides. When sharpening a saber grind, you only sharpen the wee secondary bevels of the edge.

 

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

They are very close, a saber might be thought of as a little bit higher and a true scandi has no microbevel. There can be a point in between though I guess.

I make a Bushcraft model like this, I keep the main grind just a bit more aggressive than a scandi (taller grind) but finish with a "near zero" microbevel as it is easier for some users to sharpen and performs nicely.

edit - saber can be any style (flat, hollow, convex), scandi knives are usually a flat zero bevel grind

 

[eveled]

Saber grinds can be hollow ground or flat ground.

A flat saber grind is very similar to a scandi grind but will have a bigger edge bevel.

A flat saber grind will need to be laid flat and sharpened like a scandi or it will rapidly get too thick behind the edge.

 

[TC]

And then there is the Scandivex (convex scandi) touted by some as the "true" scandi... in the end there are *major* geometry design choices that will determine the performance of a knife for this-or-that, and minor adjustments (say, a "microbevel") which will tweak it a bit here or there. Wedges don't slice well, slivers don't chop well (or for long). With use and experience, the choice of profile for a specific task shouldn't overtax anyone.

 

[XtianAus]

Thank you fellas. Starting to understand.

So other than height of the transition and the edge itself, is there any difference between a flat sabre and a scandi when it comes to the portion between?

 

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

Thank you fellas. Starting to understand.

So other than height of the transition and the edge itself, is there any difference between a flat sabre and a scandi when it comes to the portion between?
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Unlikely but you would have to just ask LT to be sure.

 

[XtianAus]

Unlikely but you would have to just ask LT to be sure.

Thanks, i was just using LT as an example. So in theory the main difference is the edge itself. Then a scandi with a micro should be stronger than the sabre because the transition is further down the spine therefore retaining more thickness?

 

[edgelion]

A scandi has no micro. Or, it's all edge. Grinding a micro edge on a scandi turns it into an obtuse sabre. But yeah, scandi is supposed to be stronger by being consistent in thickness.

 

[eveled]

IMHO. It depends on the edge angle if a micro bevel is beneficial or not on a Scandi grind. But most will have at least the slightest micro bevel. Even if just to remove the wire edge.

 

[Seedy Lot]

A zero ground scandi is really a one trick pony, the edge is just fragile unless the scandi angle is more on the obtuse side and then it just sucks for most chores as the bte is thick.

Sabers often also have a huge secondary bevel which is not good either as the bte is high.

I feel a scandivex with a thick apple seed convex to be the worst unless it is on an axe.

I started making scandi knives in 2007 so I have been around the game and this discussion for many years.

So to answer the question a scandi with a micro bevel would technically be a saber with the current definitions.

 

[LimpCroissant]

It's pretty rare to find a production knife with a true zero ground scandi. A lot of companies say they have a scandi, or occasionally even a 'true scandi', but almost all of them have a micro bevel.