grinds??

Joined
Mar 22, 2006
Messages
5,944
There is alot mentioned about grinds on the forum The preferrences seem to be predominantly Scandi, convex, and flat, I was wondering what the pros and cons of each are...how do they perform in regards to retention and ease of sharpening...Thanks.
 
Can of worms being opened... I assume you're talking about primary grinds.

I prefer flat or high flat grind. For me, they are the easiest to sharpen, and offer the best trade off of strength/durability.

Don't forget hollow (concave) ground either! Lotsa good knives in this configuration - Buck Vanguard, Doziers, etc.
 
This has been discussed all over the forums (fori? forae?) and it comes down to what you want from the knife.

Concave is superb for getting a fine, sharp edge for the life of the knife. Look at an old shaving razor, they were all concave ground.

Convex keeps the thickest steel near the edge for good edge support. Great for chopping, stabbing, or otherwise beating on a blade. Need to remove more steel to keep sharp, tho.

Flat grind is a good compromise and makes for a smooth transition from edge to spine. Great for using the flat of the blade for guiding through work i.e. carving, skinning, peeling, etc.

my $.02

J-
 
Can of worms being opened... I assume you're talking about primary grinds.

I prefer flat or high flat grind. For me, they are the easiest to sharpen, and offer the best trade off of strength/durability.

Don't forget hollow (concave) ground either! Lotsa good knives in this configuration - Buck Vanguard, Doziers, etc.

I'd always heard that Buck knives used a combination or Half-hollow grind not a true hollow grind.
 
A lot of Buck knives I've seen have had hollow saber grinds, if thats what your talking about.
 
A true Scandi grind is very easy to sharpen as you have no secondary bevel,just lay it onto the sharpening stone and push,pull circle it or whatever your favourite technique is !!!
A convex is one of the easiest to maintain via stropping !!!
 
A lot of Buck knives I've seen have had hollow saber grinds, if thats what your talking about.

I'm not sure...I just remember the product literature that came with my first Buck knife had a diagram of the edge that looked like a hollow grind but with a standard v-type edge bevel. The literature referred to it as a "half-hollow grind". Now, this was over twenty-five years ago and I've taken a few blows to the head since then so my memory probably isn't what it once was...sorry, what were talking about...oh, yeah...I was always under the impression that a true hollow grind had no edge bevel...two concaves just met to form the edge...If I've been wrong on this all this time, well, I guess you really do learn something new every day (then forget it the next).
 
I'd always heard that Buck knives used a combination or Half-hollow grind not a true hollow grind.
A lot of Buck knives I've seen have had hollow saber grinds, if thats what your talking about.


True. Also true for a very large percentage of "hollowground" knives out there.
That's because if you ground a typical blade "true" hollow, all the way up to the spine or down to the edge, it would be mighty thin and weak. Besides, if you took the hollow right to the edge, you'd eventually get a secondary bevel anyway, if you use/sharpen it enough.
 
True. Also true for a very large percentage of "hollowground" knives out there.
That's because if you ground a typical blade "true" hollow, all the way up to the spine or down to the edge, it would be mighty thin and weak. Besides, if you took the hollow right to the edge, you'd eventually get a secondary bevel anyway, if you use/sharpen it enough.

Thanks. I was pretty sure of my reasoning but...

Hey, I heard something today that made me chuckle:

There are no stupid questions...just a lot of curious idiots.
 
Back
Top