Okay, I've had the WWII for three weeks now; it's had its settling-in period, and I thought it was about time I started customising it to my needs.
I'm quite a big chap, and I like a knife handle to have a bit of heft to it; not only does it mean the knife is less susceptible to rotation in the clenched hand, it's less prone to go flying off and slicing your grandmother's left ear off as it whistles over the porch.
I'd used zinc oxide tape before in the forces - I don;t know if you get it over in the states, or if you call it something else, but it's about 3.5" wide white zinc-oxide-impregnated canvas tape, quite thin and flexible, but doesn't stretch much. We used to use it to bind feet just before a route march, and also to prevent blisters. When built up into layers, it offers a slight resistance to the touch, allowing you to indent it a fraction if you press very firmly.
My first step was to wrap the wood handle tightly with a single overwrapped layer of black PVC gaffer tape. This fits exactly to the contours of the handle, and effectivel waterproofs it. I know that ZnO tape uses rather a harsh adhesive, and didn't want to run the risk of this marking the wood.
ZnO tape was then applied, starting at the blade end (1/8" behind the gaffer tape) and working back towards the buttplate, overlaying as I went. Slicing the ZnO tape into approx 1" wide strips, I then built up a few layers in non-overlaid 'bands', working down the handle, three bands in all. A final overwrapped layer, this time starting at the buttcap, and ready for a final two layers of gaffer tape.
These layers were applied just ahead of the ZnO tape, effectively sealing it in between two layers of gaffer tape, and applied from the blade end to the butt-end.
The result is a wider-diametre grip; more suited to my hand, a waterproofing of the handle itself, so no need to worry about rainswell; and a physical barrier to scratches and nicks on the wood itself.
If anyone's interested, I can take a couple of photos and stick them up here.
ever aye,
-cub
as an aside, the best thing I've found to use to ensure good grip is 'rosin', a solid gummy substance that strings players rub on the strings of their bows to get purchase on the strings of their instruments... simply get a block of rosin from a music shop, and rub it over your palms before you start a job. Crazy glue is NOT a viable alternative. *grin*
[This message has been edited by bearcub (edited 05-05-2001).]
I'm quite a big chap, and I like a knife handle to have a bit of heft to it; not only does it mean the knife is less susceptible to rotation in the clenched hand, it's less prone to go flying off and slicing your grandmother's left ear off as it whistles over the porch.
I'd used zinc oxide tape before in the forces - I don;t know if you get it over in the states, or if you call it something else, but it's about 3.5" wide white zinc-oxide-impregnated canvas tape, quite thin and flexible, but doesn't stretch much. We used to use it to bind feet just before a route march, and also to prevent blisters. When built up into layers, it offers a slight resistance to the touch, allowing you to indent it a fraction if you press very firmly.
My first step was to wrap the wood handle tightly with a single overwrapped layer of black PVC gaffer tape. This fits exactly to the contours of the handle, and effectivel waterproofs it. I know that ZnO tape uses rather a harsh adhesive, and didn't want to run the risk of this marking the wood.
ZnO tape was then applied, starting at the blade end (1/8" behind the gaffer tape) and working back towards the buttplate, overlaying as I went. Slicing the ZnO tape into approx 1" wide strips, I then built up a few layers in non-overlaid 'bands', working down the handle, three bands in all. A final overwrapped layer, this time starting at the buttcap, and ready for a final two layers of gaffer tape.
These layers were applied just ahead of the ZnO tape, effectively sealing it in between two layers of gaffer tape, and applied from the blade end to the butt-end.
The result is a wider-diametre grip; more suited to my hand, a waterproofing of the handle itself, so no need to worry about rainswell; and a physical barrier to scratches and nicks on the wood itself.
If anyone's interested, I can take a couple of photos and stick them up here.
ever aye,
-cub
as an aside, the best thing I've found to use to ensure good grip is 'rosin', a solid gummy substance that strings players rub on the strings of their bows to get purchase on the strings of their instruments... simply get a block of rosin from a music shop, and rub it over your palms before you start a job. Crazy glue is NOT a viable alternative. *grin*
[This message has been edited by bearcub (edited 05-05-2001).]
