Griptilian H2O: x15 or n680?

T

Thursday45

Joined
Jul 29, 2013
Messages
122
Hey guys I've been in the market for a fishing/rafting or otherwise water knife (basically another reason to buy a knife ;)) and I narrowed it down to the Griptilian H2O. I see that the newer ones are made with n680 steel but I can get a new older one that a local store still has in stock with the x15 steel. My question is, which one should I get? What's the difference between the two steels? The price difference is about $20 more for the x15 one.

Thanks guys
 
Both are very stainless, but the basic difference is, X15 is a little more corrosion resistant and the sacrifice of edge holding, N680 has a little better edge holding at the sacrifice of being a little less corrosion resistant. When compared to H1, H1 in PE is corriosion proof, but less edge holding than either X15 or N680.
 
Thank you very much. I think for my purposes the more corrosive resistant one is the one I would want so I'll probably drop by the store and pick up the x15 one while its still there.

Thanks again.
 
I went with the X15, and I've loved it, while the edge retention isn't amazing I can go a week or two of heavy use (it's currently my beater and main EDC) without a touch up and at least a month, generally closer to two, before needing a more intensive resharpening.
 
I'd be interested to try the new H2o steel. At least a review will be something to look forward to. I work in very wet conditions and in using my older orange H2o Grip, I find the edge retention to be quite poor. Granted, I cut a lot of fiberglass cloth and plastics, so it's not easy on edges. Still, I have been keeping my Leatherman with file handy in order to get a quick edge on it while I'm working because it goes dull so fast. Not sure if I'll purchase a new H2o Grip.... I'm leaning heavily toward a sweet new Benchmade of my choice with black coated blade for corrosion resistance :cool:

9338774803_6b94a0e053_z.jpg
 
I've been looking for a X15 T.N. Griptilian but apparently Benchmade has stopped offering that steel. Now the H20 only comes in N680.
 
evosbu1 said:
I've been looking for a X15 T.N. Griptilian but apparently Benchmade has stopped offering that steel. Now the H20 only comes in N680.
Click to expand...

There's a place I know that still has X15-TN listed on their site, but I haven't confirmed whether or not that is the version they have in stock. Shoot me an e-mail and I can let you know which site it is.
 
I just got a G10 LE Grip with X15-TN so far I really like the steel, edge retention isn't as good as what I'm used to to but still more than adequate for my EDC needs, I'm told its around 440C but I have no experience with 440C so I can't confirm or deny.
 
I contacted davesknifeworld.com and cutleryshoppe about the steel issue, both of which were really the only online stores I could find on Google where you could actually speak to a human and listed X15 T.N. Both previously had X15 T.N. as the H20's steel, in advertising and personal confirmation. When I actually ordered from them, both gave me a last minute notice that their suppliers were mistaken and the H20's were actually N680. So I canceled the orders and they updated their webpages.

I've given up the search and bought the N680 from Amazon with prime shipping. After looking at the steels' specifications, it seems that there is little practical difference between the two, which of course leaves one wondering why Benchmade made the switch. There is an angle somewhere, I'm sure, anything to improve the profit-margin.
 
You guys want the X15? I'd be interested to know why. My Grip with that steel has very, very weak edge retention. I have been planning to send it in for a blade swap with the new steel. Anything I'm missing?
 
N680 (similar to 154CM, only much cleaner) would be more desirable than X15 for edge holding. While X15 may end up being more corrosion resistant in the long run.
 
RevDevil said:
N680 (similar to 154CM, only much cleaner) would be more desirable than X15 for edge holding. While X15 may end up being more corrosion resistant in the long run.
Click to expand...

I think you are mixing up N680 with N690. N680 has 0.54% Carbon while 154CM has 1.05. That alone would make a huge difference.
X15 and N680 are more or less similar, and N690 is closer to 154Cm.
Here - N680 vs X15 vs N690 vs 154CM steel composition comparison.

P.S. Would you happen to have precise data on N680 and N690 Sulfur and Phosphorus allowed amounts? On official Bohler data files neither is present, and without that it's not clear at all who's cleaner :)
 
Last edited:
Hi Gator,

Looks like I did get mixed up, my apologies. I would not have a way to guarantee the amount of Phosphorus on either of the Bohler steels mentioned, as the published literature already states if it is not indicated it, it may not exist or be an amount which is insignificant. If you can't find it, I doubt I would be able to short of emailing BU. But my best guess is that it would be under .04% (I hope).

Here are the data sheets for N680 and N690 respectively for anyone curious about it. Also, my statement about being "clean" is taken from BU's FAQ section, while their document is not written in chemist format, it indicates "all their steels are very clean", page 2 first question. Also, some comments from Phil Wilson at the beginning regarding manufacturing processes (N680 vs N690).
 
Last edited:
NP, just clarified.
I've emailed BU before, no luck. I doubt that'd change :) Swedish iron ore is kindda famous for being very pure, Japanese makers quite like it too. I did update X15 composition in the database, your post prompted me to review the alloys and I found another document on Aubert * Duval's site, with more precise specs. Quite well hidden for some reason :) Thanks!
 
The H20 is N680 now. I honestly would not recommend the H20. Either get a 'stock' Griptilian with the BK-1 coating (black blade), or do a "custom Griptilian" on their site, and get N680 coated if you're really concerned.
I've left my 551BK (coated regular 154CM griptilian) submerged in both ocean salt-water (from the Pacific) for 3 days, and in super-saturated homemade salt-water, again for 3 days (well 3 days and 6 hours). The only bit of rust that occurred was on the cutting surface of the blade, in one spot, (maybe 3-4MM long) and when I wiped it on a paper-towel, the rust came right off. That was it.
They're really good knives. The whole "corrosion resistance" campaign is great if you're on the water all the time, and can't rinse off your knife with fresh-water occasionally, but in any other case, you don't need any of that stuff. Same deal with Spyderco H1 stuff ... useless. I've never owned a spyderco, but the H1 series got me interested. However, after a little research and experimenting ( I PUT MY GRIP ON THE LINE, man!) I proved to myself they're unnecessary.
That's my $0.02
 
The H20 is N680 now. I honestly would not recommend the H20. Either get a 'stock' Griptilian with the BK-1 coating (black blade), or do a "custom Griptilian" on their site, and get N680 coated if you're really concerned.
I've left my 551BK (coated regular 154CM griptilian) submerged in both ocean salt-water (from the Pacific) for 3 days, and in super-saturated homemade salt-water, again for 3 days (well 3 days and 6 hours). The only bit of rust that occurred was on the cutting surface of the blade, in one spot, (maybe 3-4MM long) and when I wiped it on a paper-towel, the rust came right off. That was it.
They're really good knives. The whole "corrosion resistance" campaign is great if you're on the water all the time, and can't rinse off your knife with fresh-water occasionally, but in any other case, you don't need any of that stuff. Same deal with Spyderco H1 stuff ... useless. I've never owned a spyderco, but the H1 series got me interested. However, after a little research and experimenting ( I PUT MY GRIP ON THE LINE, man!) I proved to myself they're unnecessary.
That's my $0.02
 
Gator97 said:
NP, just clarified.
I've emailed BU before, no luck. I doubt that'd change :) Swedish iron ore is kindda famous for being very pure, Japanese makers quite like it too. I did update X15 composition in the database, your post prompted me to review the alloys and I found another document on Aubert * Duval's site, with more precise specs. Quite well hidden for some reason :) Thanks!
Click to expand...
Gator, I appreciate the time and energy you've put into the steel chart as well as the community overall, thank you. I've been thinking about this for days now, wondering mostly. I've seen the Aubery Duval site and it's pretty cool reading, as are the BU spec sheets and site. Great time to be a steel junkie.
 
154cm is pretty rust resistant. A coated blade would be, for practical purposes, rust proof. If the edge is polished, it shouldn't rust. The problem with the H2O models is that they sacrifice a lot of edge retention for rust resistance, but they don't (as far as I know) change the internals to be Kore rust resistant, basically not fixing anything. The knife will look better for sure, but the liners, screws/threads, and omega springs can still rust.

The only truly rust proof knife would be something made with H1, or ceramic. Even titanium can corrode.

If I have anything wrong, please correct me. I am super tired right now, so my memory could be suck right now.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top