Grizz owners, I need help with machine specs

rfrink

rfrink

Joined
Aug 1, 2000
Messages
863
I recieved a request that I think is very clever. A knifemaker asked to me make a disk for his Grizzly grinder to fit on the left hand stub shaft. Maybe 8-12" diameter or so.

This is the best part, His idea is to thread the hub of the disk so that it'll screw onto the shaft and lock with a jamb nut. Clever or what?

Anyway, that shaft has left hand threads and I need to know what is the thread profile? Are they english threads or metric, what pitch (threads per inch/mm), what dia?...etc

Can anyone that has one of these machines let me know precisely what the threads are(ie 5/8-18 UNF LH, M16-2.0 LH)....are they left hand for sure?

Thank you,

Rob Frink
Beaumont Metal Works
 
Sorry,I can't help you w/thread specs.,but when you make the disc I would keep it at 9".That way they can use 9x11"sandpaper glued and then trimmed instead of exspensive pre made sanding disc's. .45c vs 2.50.

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MJH
 
Rob, I don't know what the tpi is, but it is a 5/8" left hand thread. It looks like a coarse thread sae. I have a bunch of metric bolts and none have threads that coarse. I'll look into it more tomorrow. If you decide to make it for me I will send you the nut that holds on the buffing wheel.
Joe
 
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I first had 5/8"-11, but it actually mics at 0.605-11 LH.
That's what I got with my pitch gage on my Grizz.

I had to back up here. I started to assume because I saw the 5/8" in a couple of places and then I thought, "I didn't mic the shaft so how do I know it's 5/8"?"
So even though the 11 tpi may be correct it may not be either. I don't have any metric pitch gages so I can't say that for certain either.
The best I can tell with the lighting I have tonight it appears to be 11 tpi.
The I.D. of the nut is 0.548".
I am going to bet it's 5/8"-11 though as the nut appears to have been drilled 35/64" and it fits real sloppy on the shaft.
Probably to make it easier for inexperienced people dealing with grinding dust and the like.
I can check tomorrow in the daylight and know for sure.
smile.gif


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>>>>---¥vsa---->®

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[This message has been edited by Yvsa (edited 01-09-2001).]
 
I considered doing something like that to my Grizzly when I first got it, and after looking at it for awhile and playing with different ideas, this particular one just gave me a feeling of cold dread.
The arbor is very long. This gives it a lot of leverage for a little bit of centrifugal force to latch on to. Do a bit of hard buffing on one, and it goes just a little out of true and starts to chatter. Not a huge problem when you're buffing, but having a disk at the end that you would put force on one side of at a time seems like it's asking for trouble, practically trying to bend the arbor. If this makes sense to anyone else that can explain it better, please chime in. It just seems a rather dangerous conversion without shortening the arbor. Especially when Grizzly has a 1hp disk sander, complete with a 12" disk and miter table for just $129.99, and I'm sure that Harbor Freight has it for even less.

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Oz

"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken!"
http://www.freespeech.org/oz/
 
Osbourn,

Thank you for the 'heads-up'. I thought that grinder was built from a buffer which had the standard buffer type motor with the elongated frame that tapers out to the shaft ends. After your note I looked at the grizzly in the catologue. Yes, that is scary! That shaft extends a long way out with out any support.

I still think it is a clever idea, however, I think I'll stay away from this project though. I don't want anyone to get hurt with something that I made and this setup worries me a bit.

I thank you all for the responses anyway!

Sincerely,
-Rob

 
What about attaching it at the other end, in place of the nut that holds on the contact wheel? Similar to what is available with the Coote grinder. This is what I had invisioned a few years ago, but never persued it. But now my interest is renewed by the above posts, as I have been considering setting up a disk sander.
What do you think?
Brome
 
No problem, Rob. I wasn't sure if you had seen the machine yet. I like your idea, Wapiti. A disk on the side of the contact wheel might work, if the disk is replacing the nut that holds the wheel on. I would think that might work best as a casting. I have a disk on my 4x36" Craftsman. It's only a 6", but it trues up flats so well that I'm upgrading to a 9" dedicated disk grinder with a washing machine motor to run it. It's 3/4hp, and came free. I just need to make a housing and wire it.

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Oz

"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken!"
http://www.freespeech.org/oz/
 
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