Grizzly G1015: Short-sighted for next step grinder?

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danhowl

Joined
Aug 22, 2017
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Am 1.5 yrs into knife making. Having fun, learning from mistakes. Currently using 2x42 grinder and feel as though motor is getting weaker. Have had some success with selling on Etsy this year, especially for the holiday, but I don't feel as though I can justify a TW90 or similar purchase. Is the Grizzly G1015 a short-sighted next step up for a grinder?

I am limited to 110v. Though I still have much to learn on the forging side, I feel like my grinder game has lagged behind my forging growth.

FiguredWalnut.jpg
 
Merry Christmas Dan.
It looks like you do some decent work, especially this early in your journey. Just a guestimate, but you will probably outgrow the Griz as quickly as you are outgrowing your current grinder.
Regarding 110v: I have been using my Esteem grinder on 110 for a few years now, and am just starting to really crave more power. I will probably run that 220 circuit this year. My grinding style is more finesse than hogging, so take that for what it's worth.
There are plenty of solid grinders out there that are much cheaper than a TW90 and you will likely not outgrow them.
I am liking what I see in the Black Fox grinder. Good solid design and continued innovation. It bodes well I think for them and for users too.
I think grinders have a bit of evolution to go yet before any of them are really great in functionality.
I'd be looking at a platform that will allow for that evolution.
The old Bader for example is a rock solid workhorse, but does not provide a very good platform for future upgrades or improvements.
Give it some time and thought before you leap would be my advice.
 
I have had a Grizzly in my shop for almost 25 years. I wore one out, and bought another. If it died, I would order another one.
I also have a Hardcore and a Pheer. The Grizzly is a great utility grinder and there is no reason you can't have more than one grinder.
 
If you get the Grizzly, I would make upgrading the platen to be your first priority. The standard one is not particularly flat. I glued a piece of pyroceramic glass to mine and it is vastly better now.

http://www.hightemptools.com/ceramicplatenliners.html

Also, I removed and rebuilt the tool rest to be truly 90 degrees to the platen and is large enough to use with jigs.

Having said that, I'm planning on getting a new 2 x 72 (Pheer maybe?) in the near future and moving the Grizzly to backup status.
 
For what the Grizzly costs, I’d take a look at the SRG grinders, or the budget grinder Northridge is coming out with.
 
Larrin said:
Are the costs still comparable after a motor and controller is added in?
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That all depends. The grizzly is a single speed. I’ve seen used single speed motors go for pretty cheap. You could even get a variable setup for less than $200 if you shop around for used 3 phase motors.
Even if you end up paying a couple hundred extra, you’ll still have a much more versatile machine that can be upgraded/expanded as you go.
 
I use my platen for flat-sanding handle material, and I use the contact wheel for everything else. I use the buffer more often than either.
I'm not a dedicated knifemaker. My shop is more of a cutlery repair, design, knifemaking shop.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
I have had a Grizzly in my shop for almost 25 years. I wore one out, and bought another. If it died, I would order another one.
I also have a Hardcore and a Pheer. The Grizzly is a great utility grinder and there is no reason you can't have more than one grinder.
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Bill, would you choose the Grizzly to be the first grinder in your shop for knifemaking?
 
If I was on a budget, yes.
If not, I would choose the Pheer.
 
A grizzly is a very small step up from what you have now. My advice is to save up for a variable speed grinder. KMG, TW90, Pheer...
 
mattd said:
A grizzly is a very small step up from what you have now. My advice is to save up for a variable speed grinder. KMG, TW90, Pheer...
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Indeed, had I known then I would have started with the Grizzly. Unfortunately as cost goes, the next step higher is a big step.
 
If you don't mind drilling and tapping a few holes you might look at the GIB from polar bear forge. If you shopped around for deals on wheels and the motor I think you could get it below $ 800 single speed .
 
kuraki said:
No point in taking the next step if it's not to attain variable speed, imo.
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Absolutely not doubting your opinion at all, but I have wondered and actually asked people what is the actual function of different speeds? What functions are done at low speeds and what is done at high speeds?
 
danhowl said:
Absolutely not doubting your opinion at all, but I have wondered and actually asked people what is the actual function of different speeds? What functions are done at low speeds and what is done at high speeds?
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For one thing you can keep from burning your temper when using finishing belts on the thinner parts of your blade. That is a very good thing.
You almost always have to slow down for small wheel grinding.
Sometimes you just want to slow down a grind, especially if you are doing something more difficult like some types of hollow grinds.
There is a weird trade off there though. The blade does not 'float' on the belt the same way at slower speeds, so you have to be ready to compensate for that difference.
But as far as usefulness, knowing what I know after a few years of grinding I'd pay hundreds to have it rather than not, in a heartbeat.
 
danhowl said:
Absolutely not doubting your opinion at all, but I have wondered and actually asked people what is the actual function of different speeds? What functions are done at low speeds and what is done at high speeds?
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If you've ever overheated a post-heat treated blade like me, then you'd be yearning for variable speed grinder like me too! :eek:o_O;)

I've also delaminated my share of handle scales with metal liners too. :(
 
danhowl said:
Absolutely not doubting your opinion at all, but I have wondered and actually asked people what is the actual function of different speeds? What functions are done at low speeds and what is done at high speeds?
Click to expand...

I rough grind at high speed to take advantage of ceramic belts. As the grits get higher than 120 I begin slowing the grinder down to manage heat as well as mistakes. The slower speed allows you to use deliberate and rather high pressure to conform to your platen or wheel and keep your grind true.

It's also incredibly useful when grinding easy to burn materials like some woods and micarta, or materials that crack with heat like ivory

I wouldn't ever sharpen a knife on a grinder going 2000+ sfpm (dry)because frankly I don't believe you can without over tempering the micro edge of the knife whether you can see it change color or not.

Last but not least, small wheel bearings last longer at lower speed because they spin at far higher RPM than platen or contact wheels at the same belt speed.
 
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