grizzly tracking problem

R

Reynaldo Garza

Joined
Jul 12, 2009
Messages
89
I got a good deal on a grizzly 2x72 new in box for $295.00 with 10" wheel. Since, can't afford anything else so, I'm doing my best tolerating the tracking issue. I tried spraying belt dressing on the 10" rubber wheel hoping that would keep the belt from swaying left or right upon grinding the steel but, to no avail. I do have the belt tension tight enough as much as possible. Both the top alum.wheel and the 10" wheel are equal in vertical position. Even tried new belts but, still the tracking knob and the belt are not working for me. Frustration and impatience and wanting to quit it all takes the best of me. I even tried electrical tape on the middle of top alum. wheel, nothing worked. I hope you gentlemen will help me fix this problem.:mad:Rey
 
I have a Grizzly and have no tracking problems. Are you trying to dig into the steel with one side of the belt?... kinda comming in on an angle? I don't think any grinder would track right with that. Jeremy Horton is one maker that comes to mind with regard to grinding... he has his own forum in the makers section.

$295 is a great deal, BTW.... I'd buy it from you if I wasn't across the continent.

Rick
 
i called reynaldo and found out he might not have enough of a hump in his drive wheel to keep the belt tracking straight. he is going to add some rubber bands to the drive wheel to make it high in the middle and try again.
 
I think it is because there is such a long span between the two wheels. The 3-4 wheel grinders would definately hold tracking better in that regard.

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I also suggest trimming a few inches off the side of the tooling arm base so you can get the belt clear of the table edge.
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I had the same problem with the flat grinding portion and not the hollow grinding. I built my own placen that fit the screws that were there that had 1 1/2 rollers from a tractor supply company that worked well, put a 1" tube there to extend my own platen. Done this 10 years ago and worked well enough to get me bye until I built my own grinder after the KMG design. Good luck with it and it is a good grinder to begin on...

happy grinding
 
richard j said:
i called reynaldo and found out he might not have enough of a hump in his drive wheel to keep the belt tracking straight. he is going to add some rubber bands to the drive wheel to make it high in the middle and try again.
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The drive wheel is the contact wheel. You don't want to add rubber bands to it. If the idler needs a crown, I'd do it with a bit of masking or electrical tape.
 
I think Richard may actually mean the drive wheel, which is also the contact wheel. I don't think Richard hollow-grinds and it wouldn't work if you did. Otherwise, it may help tracking a bit.

It's unclear to me whether you are trying to grind with the platen, contact wheel, or both when you're having problems. If the problem only occurs when using the platen, it's likely not a drive or idler wheel issue. Think about it like you're trying to fix a car.

I think he did add some tape to the idler wheel.

I'd observe the grinder, check the alignment of the two wheels in all directions- there may be some defect or oddness causing tracking issues. Such as the surfaces of the two wheels being "twisted" out of alignment, or the top wheel being left or right of the bottom wheel when viewed from the front. A long straightedge and a big square would help with this. Maybe look for unwanted play in the tracking mechanism.

I also wonder if the killer deal may have had anything to do with the grinder being a bit defective?

You can contact Grizzly, they have a good service department and lots of parts if you need them.
 
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Even if you're a flat grinder, you don't want to lose use of the contact wheel. I don't think it it's ever a good idea.
 
i was thinking of another type of grinder and now that i see the picture i can see its the idler wheel that needs built up and that it is not the drive wheel.
 
May want to check wheel alignment with a straight edge from one wheel to the other. If one wheel is farther to the right or left it could cause tracking problems. I just reread and saw where you checked that. I have a griz also and this has me curious.
 
So for you grizz owners...when you're grinding on the platen does your belt not roam from away from you when u apply pressure? I've always assumed it was a common grizzly problem and I learned to deal with it. But damn it makes plunge lines a real bear!
 
The Grizzly has a quite versatile tracking system. Parts can come loose. I'm not in the shop, so I can't look at mine, but you can make it do anything you want. The only time I had a problem, something was loose at the top pully. It was an easy fix.
 
You all are so right about the the swaying when applying pressure it's a b.... to make plunge lines. I'm going to check for alignment on both wheels and also as Brome suggested, check the long round tube see if it may be to left or right just a tad which may cause the contact wheel to throw off the belt out of alingment and cause the swaying. Good points my fellow knifemakers and thanks to you all. I may just keep the grizzly and make it good after all since, I'm very stubborn and never quit until I get it right. Rey
 
A third wheel, just above the platen (like the pic I posted) would cure your tracking problems. The span between wheels is so long that the belt flexes.

Rick
 
I just went to the shop and put some electrical tape on the contact wheel build a center hump enough to hold the belt in place and it worked genlemen. I'm still going to check thorougly the vertical position of wheels and tubelar alingment also. But, for now thanks Richard and Brome and all of you for your help. God Bless. Rey
 
Good deal, Reynaldo.

Glad to hear it is working.

Let us know if you need any more help.

The Griz is a pretty good machine, but can use some tweeking here and there to improve its funcitoning.

Brome
 
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