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Guided sharpening for shallow blades.
- Thread starter gomipile
- Start date
i used to have a clamp type system and i found that some blades that were ffg did not line up again with the edge i put on previously. narrow blades were worse. also a guided system has to have 3 points of a set length to get the angle stated. most people never think of this when using a guided system.
if you have a wide blade and sharpen it at say the 20 degree angle and sharpen a narrow blade at the same angle, the wide blade could have a steeper angle and the narrow blade could have a more obtuse angle.
i was glad to get rid of mine when i got the paper wheels which allow you to match up the existing angle or change to the angle you want. you have to judge the angles but you can be more consistent with practice.
if you have a wide blade and sharpen it at say the 20 degree angle and sharpen a narrow blade at the same angle, the wide blade could have a steeper angle and the narrow blade could have a more obtuse angle.
i was glad to get rid of mine when i got the paper wheels which allow you to match up the existing angle or change to the angle you want. you have to judge the angles but you can be more consistent with practice.
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2009
- Messages
- 13,537
Probably not. I've tried the Lansky, Gatco and DMT Aligner/MagnaGuide, and small blades are very difficult to clamp to. The best I've done so far was with the pen blade on a SAK, using my Lansky clamp (the others won't even hold onto a blade that small or, if they do, the blade is set too deeply into the clamp, making the edge inaccessible.
Very small blades, such as found on a Peanut, are generally simpler to put a quick free-hand edge on anyway. The thinness of the blade contributes the most to cutting ability on those, meaning you can afford to use a slightly larger angle to put the edge on it, and not lose much in slicing ability. A fine diamond hone and/or a ceramic sharpener (like a Sharpmaker) can make pretty quick work of very small blades like this. Just make sure to keep pressure VERY light, when sharpening very thin blades on the edges/corners of ceramic hones.
Very small blades, such as found on a Peanut, are generally simpler to put a quick free-hand edge on anyway. The thinness of the blade contributes the most to cutting ability on those, meaning you can afford to use a slightly larger angle to put the edge on it, and not lose much in slicing ability. A fine diamond hone and/or a ceramic sharpener (like a Sharpmaker) can make pretty quick work of very small blades like this. Just make sure to keep pressure VERY light, when sharpening very thin blades on the edges/corners of ceramic hones.
Last edited:
t1mpani
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2002
- Messages
- 5,528
A heavy-duty system like the Wicked Edge will do a better job, as you can get away with less surface area of the jaws holding on while still putting a fair amount of clamping pressure to hold the blade still, but you'll still be limited to the larger angles as the stones need to be able to get around the jaws. Super narrow blades like that really are better done by hand.