H.I. Khukuries edge holding capabilities

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Sep 11, 2014
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Hi,guys who owns one or more blades from HI ,,,,if I am right,HI Kamis are sharpening edges on these blades into convex edge right?Generally,knives from most production/factories are coming with V (flat) groung or hollow ground edges,,,,these however do not hold its sharpness even close to convex edge-which have as much as 400% more support in blade material compared to first two most common options.... Convex edge is most durable,tough and long lasting,however very difficult to make and up to date,this type of edge is only made by hand as there are no machines or factory automated equipment made for its creation.If that's correct and HI Kamis doing it on blades-included CAK series,I am very pleased and happy for that very much.Keeping this sort of edge razor sharp requires generally sanding paper and leather strop......what is your experience and what ways you guys maintain yourself such edges on your blades???? Any new ideas out there??? Appreciate every answer
 
All HI blades are full convex edge.

I usually just use the chakma to keep the edge aligned and to keep a working edge on my khuks.

To get it really sharp, I use sandpaper and stones.

I know others use a leather strop, and/or some sort of machine (I don't have one, so I don't really know the correct terminology).
 
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for field work you should never need more than the chakma-- I have never really sharpened any of my khuks and the ones I use I only use the chakma to roll back steel
 
I actually wanted to make a topic like this earlier. I've had my Gelbu Special for over 2 months now and it's still as sharp as when I got it. I've chopped tons of branches/wood posts/plywood/vines and it gets used nearly every day and still cuts paper nicely
 
It is false to believe that power shop tools can't grind a convex edge, not sure where you're getting that info. Ever heard of a slack belt grinder? I've ground hundreds of convex edges. Both the primary bevel and the edge can be ground with a belt grinder. You can put a secondary convex edge on a flat grind, hollow grind, or convex primary bevel. Or you can have a zero edge convex, where the primary convex extends to the edge with no secondary edge. The chakma is good for rolled edges only IMO and worthless for sharpening if in fact you want it to actually be sharp and your time is of any value. For general chopping use real sharpness isn't always needed and maybe the chakma would suffice...but any sort of knife use (slicing something), better learn how to sharpen with either a belt grinder or with sandpaper and a soft medium. Stropping is great for maintaining an edge and polishing the edge, not for sharpening.
 
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It is false to believe that power shop tools can't grind a convex edge, not sure where you're getting that info. Ever heard of a slack belt grinder? I've ground hundreds of convex edges. Both the primary bevel and the edge can be ground with a belt grinder. You can put a secondary convex edge on a flat grind, hollow grind, or convex primary bevel. Or you can have a zero edge convex, where the primary convex extends to the edge with no secondary edge. The chakma is good for rolled edges only IMO and worthless for sharpening if in fact you want it to actually be sharp and your time is of any value. For general chopping use real sharpness isn't always needed and maybe the chakma would suffice...but any sort of knife use (slicing something), better learn how to sharpen with either a belt grinder or with sandpaper and a soft medium. Stropping is great for maintaining an edge and polishing the edge, not for sharpening.

I did not mention power-tools,I mentioned automated factory machines....where no human hand needed,spitting out thousands of blades daily....a bit difference there,of course power tools as belt grinder works,for this purpose-however,this would be still hand made stuff. ....
 
... Stropping is great for maintaining an edge and polishing the edge, not for sharpening.
I agree there. This is where I use the chakma but then again that is seldom. Most of the damage done to my users get slack belt touch up after rolled edges are straightened by peining. Villagers and Non-HI blades almost always get slack belt and then ceramic rod touch up in between use. I walk barefoot on my property most of the time so I like to cut close to the ground and then give the "stump" a whack on the top with the side of the blade to flatten it out so I dont impale my foot so rock dings are a thing of life. Chakma doesnt do well for these dings. The beauty of these blades are they dont usually chip and they can be restored. I still prefer sandpaper for my shiny Khuks and ceramic rod touchup between sessions.
 
As with most people I never use more than a chakma on a chopping blade, for that a razor sharp is a waste of time and effort and will result in even more wasted time and effort when you attempt to use it. Slicing blades on the other hand, yeah you can sharpen them pretty much any way you want, but I find that if you keep it sharp then by the time you setup the slackbelt you could be done with a mousepad and sandpaper or ceramics. I just don't take enough material off for a power tool to be necessary. But the primary secret is to sharpen appropriately for the task at hand.
 
Wow, a lot of people are using ceramic rods huh? I like to go honing steel (same principle as chakma) to ceramic rod to loaded strop to plain leather. I like this for the curved edge on khuks. It's fast and efficient.
 
I did not mention power-tools,I mentioned automated factory machines....where no human hand needed,spitting out thousands of blades daily....a bit difference there,of course power tools as belt grinder works,for this purpose-however,this would be still hand made stuff. ....

I misunderstood, my bad...
 
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