H1 blade related question

[쌍칼잡이]

My shipments of beers arrived yesterday and I was cutting up the beer case cardboards (I tend to stock the beers individually in my beer fridge than stick the whole cases). And these cardboards are just common, not too thick. I sliced about ten of those boxes and later on found this tiny, almost one sided chip that's noticeable by touch and able to see it when you shine a light against it.

Had anyone else chipped their blade while cutting cardboards? I broke folders liner locks before while cutting up thicker boards but never a chip like this.

Here is a picture of the blade from side view. I've tried sharpening it and now you can't really tell from this angle...

BUT... from top view, you can see the slight light reflection on the area that the chip or rolled edge occured. This was still there after I sharpened it: (you can kind of see the light reflection near the handle)

Its not a big deal and after some more sharpening sessions it'll eventually smooth out eventually. But I am curious to know if a steel like H1 is vulnerable to even cardboards, or if it's not. I am still not ruling out the possibility that someone might have played with it while we went to drink in back yard.

 

[Surfingringo]

I have found pe H1 to be far more prone to plastic deformation than chipping. If I had to guess, I'd suspect that is a rolled edge rather than a chip but I can't tell from that picture. Can you feel a lip when you touch it with your fingernail?

 

[쌍칼잡이]

I have found pe H1 to be far more prone to plastic deformation than chipping. If I had to guess, I'd suspect that is a rolled edge rather than a chip but I can't tell from that picture. Can you feel a lip when you touch it with your fingernail?

I apologize for the poor quality picture. I tried many angles but found that picture to be the best one to see the light reflection.

Anyhow, before I sharpeed it, I was able to feel the rolled part. But upon sharpening it, I now can barely feel the rolled part. It just looks like a tiny fragment was either chipped off or rolled (to one side).
I know I can even it out over time. But I was just curious if anyone else had similar issue upon cutting normal cardboards. It looked similar to the time when I accidently smacked one of the blade I had open against a metal guard rail. It resulted in similar damage but a little bigger deformation than on my Aqua.

By the way, what did you mean by plastic deformation? Are you talking about the handle becoming warped from tension stress? Because the handle is the only plastic part about the knife. I have not noticed any plastic deformation as of yet.

 

[Sosa]

I had a full serrated salt that rolled pretty bad and damaged the edge pretty good. I was cutting a door in a thick Gaylord pallet. Also cut some fire blanket. I sent it in for sharpening because it was so screwed up. I took it back to work went easy on it. It dulled very fast cutting visqueen plastic. It's like a butter knife now.

 

[Chris "Anagarika"]

Plastic deformation means the edge rolled and permanently 'bent' to one side or the other. H1 is supposedly work harden, so I'm curious if we can straighten the roll using a smooth rod (glass?) and the edge will be sharp again and perhaps stronger?

 

[jbmonkey]

i used an older version serrated salt years ago to saw through a dead palm frond. it rolled the teeth horribly. i was able to straighten them using a steel, tooth by tooth. it's a very limited use steel, in my experiences with it. still have the knife and it's still good, but i gave up on trying to use it outside of it's scope. now i grab the saw. which i should have done in the first place. point here is this steel rolls very easily, but easy to straighten back and keep sharp. so it's quite useful for many tasks, just not sawing or hard cutting tasks.

 

[palonej]

I find H1 can damage easily, but not while cutting cardboard. I've had this one for a while and as long as I don't abuse it, it's fine. Pretty easy to bring back also.
I highly doubt that damage shown was from cardboard.
Here's mine.
I really like this knife!

 

[Evany]

I've found that some cardboard boxes are glued together at the seams with a hard plastic like material. If you encounter a drip or two of that, it could easily roll an edge, especially on PE H1, which is relatively soft stuff. The good news is, it should not be difficult to bring it back.

 

[legato1]

H1 is definitely vulnerable to deformation, especially in the plain edge configuration. As a work hardening steel it will get better with use. I tried to cut through heavy kevlar belted tires with a brand new full serrated aqua salt and completely destroyed the edge. rolled from point to handle. And not just rolled, these serrations were gone.... But after some time on the CBN sharp maker rods, i now have a "lumpy" fine edge that cuts almost as aggressively as a factory serrated edge, with zero risk of hanging up on sharp serrations and almost as well as a fine edge. With the addition of the work hardening that comes with the factory serrations plus the work i have put into it. Give your knife time and beat on it, especially with the fine edge. After a few months of use and sharpening, you will see improvement in edge retention.

 

[Surfingringo]

H1 is definitely vulnerable to deformation, especially in the plain edge configuration. As a work hardening steel it will get better with use. I tried to cut through heavy kevlar belted tires with a brand new full serrated aqua salt and completely destroyed the edge. rolled from point to handle. And not just rolled, these serrations were gone.... But after some time on the CBN sharp maker rods, i now have a "lumpy" fine edge that cuts almost as aggressively as a factory serrated edge, with zero risk of hanging up on sharp serrations and almost as well as a fine edge. With the addition of the work hardening that comes with the factory serrations plus the work i have put into it. Give your knife time and beat on it, especially with the fine edge. After a few months of use and sharpening, you will see improvement in edge retention.

Hi legato, it's worth noting how thin the factory edge is on the serrated salts. This is one reason they are such mean cutters but it also makes them more prone to damage when they are new. They are chisel ground at what appears to be less than 15 degrees. Given that the other side has at most a primary bevel angel of a few degrees, the inclusive edge angle is likely 15-18 degrees. I find that even after a few microbevels on the 40 degree sharpmaker setting, my edge becomes FAR more stable. That said, the task you set about was a tough one and though a micro beveled knife would have fared much better than the stock edge, I'm sure you still would have had notable damage.

Edit: I wasn't pointing any of that out to refute your statement that H1 is vulnerable to deformation. It absolutely is. Sometimes though, deformation is the lesser of two evils. I'd like to see how serrated s90v at 18 degrees would have fared. I say that jokingly but I really would like to see the results. Maybe I will have to find an old serrated zdp-189 spydie to do some comparative hard use testing with. That would be interesting.

 

[legato1]

It was definintly an unreasonable task that would trash any new serrated edge,, but I preferred the rolling to having it chip out like some steels may have. H1 is interesting stuff. Maybe I should have worded it differently, h1 tends to deform rather than chip in my experience.

 

[Chris "Anagarika"]

Lance, how is the test planned for the PE part of the tip we talked about last time? Hope you still remember

I'm trying to use mine (Pac Salt, PE, thinned down, edge bevel about 2mm wide, polished edge to 1 micron) more often to see if more use combined with sharpening often does 'cold work' it

 

[Surfingringo]

Lance, how is the test planned for the PE part of the tip we talked about last time? Hope you still remember

Hey Chris, i started sharpening the tip at 40 degrees inclusive. Edge retention of that portion is still nothing great but it has definitely been less prone to rolling. That has helped since before the edge would roll and deform fairly easily with that very acute chisel grind.

 

[Chris "Anagarika"]

Hey Chris, i started sharpening the tip at 40 degrees inclusive. Edge retention of that portion is still nothing great but it has definitely been less prone to rolling. That has helped since before the edge would roll and deform fairly easily with that very acute chisel grind.

Hi Lance,

Thanks for sharing. It still a mystery that the SE has a higher wear resistance.
If you find anything significant, please share .
My use is much lighter, so the mileage is really short .