So since I dont have access to a bandsaw or other power cutting tools, im using a hacksaw with a fine tooth blade to cut out a knife profile from 1/8 inch 1084, and at the current rate it'll be Christmas before im done. I drilled some 1/4 inch holes where I would be cutting and that helped a bit, but its still taking a long time. Does anyone know of a way to speed things up? Is there a better blade type I could be using? Or is this just something ill have to knuckle down and push through? (Which, though I won't necessarily like it, im perfectly capable of.)
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Hacksaw profiling
- Thread starter JN7556
- Start date
Ive done two knifes now by hacksaw. Bothe have been cut out of 3/16th 5"x48". Both knifes have been about 6 1/2" long....
Drill holes strategically. Take breaks. It took me about 30 minutes per cut. One thing that helped me was i would put an ink mark where i start my cut between short breaks. Then i could see how far i progressed. Just like most things, its all about mental attitude. This seemed to keep me motivated.
Drill holes strategically. Take breaks. It took me about 30 minutes per cut. One thing that helped me was i would put an ink mark where i start my cut between short breaks. Then i could see how far i progressed. Just like most things, its all about mental attitude. This seemed to keep me motivated.
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Clamp it or use a vise, also use Lenox or other high quality blades, lots of tension and pressure. I use my hacksaw a lot and can cut through a bar of 1.5" tall .125" 1095 in about a minute. The vise or using something to back/teady your work is important
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I profiled my knife from a Nicholson file with a hacksaw , only took me maybe 30 min
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The bottom of the kerf where the teeth of the blade are cutting should always be very close to the jaws of the vice while you're cutting, perhaps 1/2" or so. This reduces vibration. Less vibration, faster cutting. Keep repositioning the steel so the bottom of the kerf stays close to the jaws of the vice. Also, don't drag the blade backwards across the steel. This dulls the teeth. Lift the blade while you're pulling it back.
Did you just cut off the ends or did you cut a shape out of the middle? Thats what im doing, so I have to cut off much more stock.
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Did you just cut off the ends or did you cut a shape out of the middle? Thats what im doing, so I have to cut off much more stock.
No instead of drawing in the middle I used the flat side to my advantage , so I only had to cut 3 sides. I rough cut it with the hack saw then give it to her with a grinder and sanding/buffing wheel. Easy peezy ... The hateful part ... I find anyways is grinding the bevel by hand ... It takes a long time! About an hour per side. I've only made 2 knives so far though.
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For profiling around round edges , I make a series of vertical or horizontal cuts then cut along the shape , works good. I would use a grinder but I'm not a big fan of them ... Especially not zip cut discs ...
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
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Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Get a High Tension hacksaw frame and use Lenox Bi-Metal blades. It works a lot better than a regular hacksaw. Costs about $25.
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^^^^ What he said. High tension hacksaw beats the tar out of regular hacksaw. Get 18tpi blades, not the 24tpi. 1/8" 1095 easy breazy.
Went to lowes earlier and picked up some stuff (sadly, and surprisingly, they were out of high tension frames) and after a couple test passes these lenox blades are leaps and bounds ahead of the old one. Also picked up a new vice and everything is just so much better now. I guess I never realized how ill equipped I was... Thanks a lot everyone!
Last edited:
swonut
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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The high tension frame is key. Keeps me cutting straiter. Also, drilling holes helps to keep things in line.
Thinking the project through and ordering your stock to width eliminates much cutting.
Lastly, an angle grinder helps, but I find it very hard to control. If you get one, get one with a side handle. Oh, and EYE PROTECTION!
Best tool purchase for the money is the harbor freight 1x30 grinder on sale. (They seem to always be on sale.) They are not great, but you can make them work for you.
Thinking the project through and ordering your stock to width eliminates much cutting.
Lastly, an angle grinder helps, but I find it very hard to control. If you get one, get one with a side handle. Oh, and EYE PROTECTION!
Best tool purchase for the money is the harbor freight 1x30 grinder on sale. (They seem to always be on sale.) They are not great, but you can make them work for you.
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- Aug 2, 2010
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- 1,611
^^ This! 100%
It's what I've been using since I first started over 5 years ago, works great, it's just damn loud (It's about time for me though to get a darn metal cutting bandsaw already
) Just make sure to take all safety precautions when using one. Buy the cut-off discs they sell at harbor freight as well, it's like a pack of 10 or something for 5 or so bucks.. I forget, but it's cheap and worth it, and they will last you a long time. You should also get a few of there very coarse grit flap sanding discs to help smooth out he profile, and you can even start the bevels using those, then finish them with a good file.~Paul
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