I have a pair of Burr King 760's, I have worked on several of these machines, and I have bought lots of parts from Burr King. From what I can see from the photos:
1. This is a machine made after ~1982, but before the most recent generation. (Note that there is just one tracking adjustment knob, like the most recent ones -- this puts it after ~ 1982 or so, and yet it has the older door design which was switched I believe in the 1990's). My guess is that this is a mid 1980's machine. The serial number will be stamped into the side of the baseplate and Burr King can tell you exactly.
2. From what I can tell, you will need at least:
-2 idler wheel assemblies. For the larger 760 machines, these are around $135 each, but your 482 takes a smaller dia. wheel.
-Belt tension spring and some parts, like the rod that goes into the spring
-almost certainly, you will need a new drive wheel bearing and hub. These are around $100
-platen and platen mount (about $75 for both for my 760, maybe a bit less for yours)
-workrest and workrest mount (also about $75 for my 760, maybe a bit less for yours)
-You'll also need a v-belt and maybe some small hardware and odds & ends.
-The tracking adjustment knob/stud is missing. It goes in the hole under the words "BURR KING" in the main casting. A wing bolt would work in a pinch if you don't want to buy one -- I haven't priced these.
-(the guard door is also missing, but this doesn't really matter unless you're the type of person who likes putting fingers in bad places -- i'd just take off the hinge if it were mine...the generation just previous to yours circa 1980 did not have a door and was just open like yours is now.)
This puts you at maybe $550 + motor & switch to complete the machine if nothing unexpected is broken. Then you need a motor & switch. The motor is the world's most common size 56 frame, and you'll probably want 1hp on the machine like the factory ones (although 3/4hp or 1.5hp would be fine if it's easier to find). Motor + switch can be done for $100 with a little, but not too much looking. (Note: I'm assuming you put a 110v non-variable-speed system on for simplicity's sake).
If you don't want to put in $550 + motor & switch = ~500, then save $100 and don't replace the drive wheel hub, and also fab your own platen/platen mount and/or workrest/workrest mount (another $150 off). You'll want to eventually replace the drive wheel bearing assembly, but you won't hurt anything by using it until it properly dies (although def. soak it in a solvent oil for a while before using). You can maybe get cheaper idler wheels, too -- You need them on 5/8" studs.
If you do order parts from burr king, then CALL THEM and ask for Terry, and give him your serial number from the side of the machine's baseplate. Ask him to send you a manual specific for your machine
because it takes some parts that are different than the new machines. They stock the old parts usually, but you want to make sure you order those and not the different, newer equivalents that may not fit.. The price lists for all the new versions of the parts are posted online here (you need the manual to find the part numbers, but you can just download the manual for the new machine from their website to get an idea):
http://www.burrking.com/catalog/p-100043/replacement-parts
There are one or two dealers online who sell the same parts drop-shipped from burr king at a 10% or so discount, but I always buy from Burr King because Terry there knows the machines inside out and makes sure I'm getting the right parts.
Personally, I think it's a no-brainer to fix this machine up unless the remaining parts are really trashed. I absolutely love my 760's -- fantastically designed machines -- and the fact that burr king has the manual and drop-in replacement parts means that it is super easy and dead simple to restore it so that it's mechanically like new. If you don't like it once it's done, then sell it for ~750 come out no worse than even.
Obviously, the only real drawback for knifemaking is the fact that it uses a small drivewheel.
When you work on it, I recommend lots of Kroil or good penetrant oil. The machine is mostly aluminum castings. Because some of the fasteners are steel and it was left outside, you will have galling/corrosion issues, so a penetrant oil soak will help get things moving safely again. I use Simple Green to clean, but it will etch aluminum if you leave it too long -- make sure to rinse it REALLY well and don't leave residue in holes, etc.
If you have any other questions about the machine and I don't see them here, then just PM me.
[/URL][/IMG]
[/URL][/IMG]
