Half Round Rasp or 4 In Hand

C

cityofthesouth

Joined
Jan 29, 2014
Messages
1,638
So first I said to myself, self you could probably use a half round rasp to really make those axe handle swells just so. THEN I thought to myself, you could just get a vintage one on ebay. THEN I thought to myself, you have no idea what you're look for.

What would you look for? I used to love using a 4 in hand as a kid (and that would be great too) for my various "projects", but a few weeks ago I was in the hardware store and the ones sitting on the shelf were so bad looking it was actually kind of funny .... in a sad way. I'm going to have to order something, or do the ebay thing.
 
cityofthesouth said:
So first I said to myself, self you could probably use a half round rasp to really make those axe handle swells just so. (And then sez) What would you look for?
Click to expand...

I only tend to buy vintage used files and rasps to use as steel stock for blade making. I have used the four-in-hands and have a couple of them -- but lately I've been suffering from Swiss Army Syndrome. That is the realization that any multi-tool only does two things: it's either too freekin' slow to do lots of work, or it is just useful enough to really screw up an important job. So what I look for is a good quality rasp.

Unfortunately, yer not gonna find one of those at yer average hardware store. You need a place that caters to woodworkers, even a high-end lumber yard might be good. Online, I highly recommend Lee Valley.

There are others, and of course you can always go buy whatever's in the hardware store down the road. I've just found using a four-in-hand to be more work for less output. YAHMV -- "Your Axe Handle May Vary."
 
They are handy if you need to grab one thing, but a half round rasp and a regular file or two are not that expensive. If on a budget I feel that even the harbor freight ones are fine for semi regular use if being used on wood. You can get really good older ones at yard sales for next to nothing, I pick them up if they are not worn.
 
A good quality 14" farriers rasp is one the most valuable tools a haft maker can have.
 
Yes a farriers rasp works great, I have a half round one I use and it cuts smoother than my wood rasp.
 
Nice, thanks everyone! There is a large Horse section at the local Farm and Ranch - I'll just swing by and see what they look like.
 
Anyone try the japanese rasps? I've been hearing good things and wondering about trying one for handle making.
 
A four-in-one is perfect to have on hand in a portable kit bag or coat pocket whereas full size files and rasps are really what you want for dedicated workshop use.
Similar analogy to keeping a SAK or other small blade in your pocket. At least you do have something that can be used to retrieve the hind quarters and tenderloins of a fresh dead deer that shows up at the side of the highway, instead of fervently wishing a dedicated hunting knife was strapped to your waist all the time.
 
Estate sales have produced a bonanza of wood rasps for me. I have all I'll ever need in my lifetime.
 
chuxwan said:
Anyone try the japanese rasps? I've been hearing good things and wondering about trying one for handle making.
Click to expand...

Are you interested is something like these?


Iwasaki calls them carving files. but in my mind they are more rasp than file. I chose the Iwasaki based on good things I've read on other forums. I didn't buy these specifically for work on axe handles. I wanted a rasp less aggressive than the conventional toothed rasp I have. I have a 4 in one, but don't really like it. I've used them for various things and the flat one for the last axe I hung. They cut well and are comfortable. There is a learning curve with these. They need a little lighter touch than what I'm used to with a file or toothed rasp. Once I got a "feel" for using them they were very efficient. Also they like to go with the grain the way a blade (knife, spokeshave, etc.) does.
 
They didn't have a half round - weak. They are also pretty huge and my main interest is getting the curve into the swell - made me wonder if they would be too big. The issue I have with the belt sander is the contact wheel is too large to get it exactly the way I want it - not a tight enough turn.

rjdankert, those look a great tool for this sort of thing - a little smaller and a little finer. Gonna check into those.
 
cityofthesouth said:
. . . .

rjdankert, those look a great tool for this sort of thing - a little smaller and a little finer. Gonna check into those.
Click to expand...

They come in different sizes. I think mine came from Highland Woodworking. They also carry Auriou hand stitched rasps.
 
cityofthesouth said:
They didn't have a half round - weak. They are also pretty huge and my main interest is getting the curve into the swell - made me wonder if they would be too big.
Click to expand...

My larger half rounds are too big to get into the curve of the swell. But my 8" rasps work that area well.
 
Square_peg said:
My larger half rounds are too big to get into the curve of the swell. But my 8" rasps work that area well.
Click to expand...

Got impatient and just bought a Warrensville wood rasp locally so I get could to work. I hadn't come back to read but glad I got the smaller one for sure. Worked great. Teeth seem even and sharp and I managed to duplicate my vintage handle fairly well. Pics tomorrow. Thanks everyone for the help.
 
My favorite is a no 49 Nicholson second cut. I have a no 50 also but it is more prone to clogging. Mine are older made in the USA so I don't know what the new ones are like. Kind of like axes you can spend about as much as you want. The straight teeth of auto body files can work really well also. There is a little bit of a learning curve with them.
Just so you know a file is not good for both steel and wood. The ones I use for wood never touch steel of any kind.
 
rjdankert said:
Are you interested is something like these?


Iwasaki calls them carving files. but in my mind they are more rasp than file. I chose the Iwasaki based on good things I've read on other forums. I didn't buy these specifically for work on axe handles. I wanted a rasp less aggressive than the conventional toothed rasp I have. I have a 4 in one, but don't really like it. I've used them for various things and the flat one for the last axe I hung. They cut well and are comfortable. There is a learning curve with these. They need a little lighter touch than what I'm used to with a file or toothed rasp. Once I got a "feel" for using them they were very efficient. Also they like to go with the grain the way a blade (knife, spokeshave, etc.) does.
Click to expand...

Ive been looking seriously at these lately as I have been shaping wood quite a bit. I'm using a spokeshave/Mora 106/rasp/sandpaper to good effect but like what I am hearing about these. My questions is- flat or half round for my first purchase? Also, medium or fine? I hear that these are aggressive..
 
When I first got into this game, I bought a four in hand, largely because I watched a video from the US Forest Service. I found it slow and awkward, and went to a Nicholson Rasp. I would take a four in hand on a backpacking trip, but prefer to use rasps. After reading this, I am going to head over to Lee Valley. That'll make my sweetie roll her eyes!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top