Half tang/Full tang?!?

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Jul 22, 2008
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Thoughts on a full tang that stops short about an inch from the end of a handle? I finally got my Knife design but to make it work I'm short an inch on the back of the handle. :thumbup: or :thumbdn:

wish I had longer steel :(

Also can I use this handle design in a cutting Competition?
 
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nothing really wrong doing that. The problem is cutting the slot for a really snug fit.
 
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here's what I mean visually
 
Why not cut away the front and back (edge side and spine side) and make it a full hidden tang?
 
This is my 2nd knife. It's going to be a VERY simple chopper. A hidden tang seems to be a lot to do... and It may look funny with no guard. I have cutouts that I will post later tonight. I took this design from my grandfathers butchers knives. They all have a half tang or a full/half tang like my design. I also worry it will not be strong enough.






The problems with a 5mm thick 11 inch long piece of 3v :D
 
what i have done in the past--only once- was to silver braze a piece to the tang ,then I took a dye to it, then i screwed an pommel nut on. marekz
 
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I rehandled a couple of knives where the tang was maybe a little wider than 1/2" and curved up from bottom to top at the end of the tang. The curve basically matched the 3" cutting disc I used to make the slot in the handle. So, the top of the handle looked exactly like your pic but the bottom was solid shaped G-11 and there were three 3/32" pins in the handle.

I have also done what Marekz has done, weld in another piece of steel and grind the two pieces flush.
 
These are all excellent suggestions. However, I don't 'weld' anything other than gold :D and the only tools I use are a home made metal saw and a few files. Thanks 69 you reaffirmed my idea I was thinking of that. It's a real comfortable handle and pretty easy to make/modify after the slit is fitted.
 
I've extended a handle a couple of times when I felt I made the tang too short. I used a router to cut out a very shallow area for the tang in front and left the two halves alone in back and the bottom. I glued and pinned the scales over the knife handle and shaped it on the grinder. In both cases I left extra wood on the bottom so the tang was exposed on the top and just wood on the back and bottom. They turned out looking like I planned it that way all along
 
I rehandled a cheap kitchen knife with a stub tang by cutting an insert out of brass the same thickness as the blade in the profile of the handle, minus the stub. I pinned and glued both the stub and the insert to the slabs.
 
Like Don says knothing wrong with half tang, or you could just make it a hidden tang, you could weld a piece onto it as well to make it full tang. When i order steel I usually buy some 8 ,9,and 10 inch long cpm154 stock then im covered
 
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