The Sharpmaker will handle most every blade, but if their edges are thicker than 40 degrees, it'll take either patience of skill to sharpen such things. If you also buy a coarse or extra coarse (or extra extra coarse) hone to go with your Sharpmaker (such as a diamond hone or a 200 grit waterstone or Razor Edge Systems coarse hone), you can thin the blade so that every knife will take a 30 or 40 degree edge.
If you have the extra money, and your MT Halo suggests you do (or did), get
Apex Kit 3 from EdgePro Inc. Also get a flat patio block and learn the time honored tradition of flattening waterstones (don't worry, little ones take barely any time). The EdgePro Apex will handle everything short of hawkbilled blades (I've never tried their serration sharpening method, but it'll handle non-serrated edges in amazing ways) at any angle and any level of sharpness. If you search posts around here and knifeforums from Nosmo and MeDoctor (and QuietOneD and cbwx34 and TedGamble and....), you'll find a treasure trove of info.
For initial cost, get the Sharpmaker; for overall satisfaction, you're doomed. Just accept that you're done for. You'll end up with an EdgePro and be psyched about your edges, but then you'll read about the edges Jeff Clark gets with his Sharpmaker and want that. Sanding with a belt-sander works great as does stropping with fine, diamond compound and that'll get you. Then the appeal of traditional oilstones will have you chasing down crystolon and India hones from Norton as well as an array of Arkansas stones (soft, black, translucent - they'll all be great, but too slow on 154CM and S90V and whatever else Microtech cooks up) and then diamond hones and waterstones for speed or speed and highly-polished edges. By that time, you'll be beyond insane; able to sharpen everything in your house with something else in your house; and wonder if ceramic benchstones from Spyderco or DeGussitt are the 'answer.'