- Joined
- Dec 3, 1999
- Messages
- 9,437
Here's a little bit of insight into a project that's WAY overdue... Yes, even more than yours'! 
Our very own Coop has had an integral on my list for longer than anybody else waiting for one of my knives. It's been a challenge to come up with anything that felt right, but I finally think I got it tonight. It's only rough forged, but it's well on its way now.
Besides, I had to let you guys see that I actually DO STILL WORK IN MY SHOP!!!
Forging down 1" W1 round-stock. These are lateral drawing dies that I made up just for this purpose. If you simply flatten the rod with flat dies, it won't be much wider than 1." With these dies, I can spread the steel out quite wide, and have a nice billet to forge a big blade from.
The W1 forged down to the initial billet. it's forged out to about 1-3/8" wide and 1/4" thick. The shoulders for the blade/bolster transition are now pretty much forged in.
Now I lay the round stock on the anvil and drive the flattened end of the bar down hard with a heavy, wide faced hammer. If you look in the above pic, the steel flares out on BOTH sides of the round-stock. Obviously it needs to drop down from one side of the round and not both.
Forging down the tang.
Refining the overall lines and making sure everything is straight.
The blade has been heated to an even color in the forge and I'm watching the shadows that dissappeared, flow back into the blade... it's pretty amazing thing to watch in a dark shop!
Our very own Coop has had an integral on my list for longer than anybody else waiting for one of my knives. It's been a challenge to come up with anything that felt right, but I finally think I got it tonight. It's only rough forged, but it's well on its way now.
Besides, I had to let you guys see that I actually DO STILL WORK IN MY SHOP!!!
Forging down 1" W1 round-stock. These are lateral drawing dies that I made up just for this purpose. If you simply flatten the rod with flat dies, it won't be much wider than 1." With these dies, I can spread the steel out quite wide, and have a nice billet to forge a big blade from.
The W1 forged down to the initial billet. it's forged out to about 1-3/8" wide and 1/4" thick. The shoulders for the blade/bolster transition are now pretty much forged in.
Now I lay the round stock on the anvil and drive the flattened end of the bar down hard with a heavy, wide faced hammer. If you look in the above pic, the steel flares out on BOTH sides of the round-stock. Obviously it needs to drop down from one side of the round and not both.
Forging down the tang.
Refining the overall lines and making sure everything is straight.
The blade has been heated to an even color in the forge and I'm watching the shadows that dissappeared, flow back into the blade... it's pretty amazing thing to watch in a dark shop!
