Hamon 15N20

David W Babcock

David W Babcock

Black Metal Forge
Joined
Mar 21, 2018
Messages
80
Good Day!

I’ve just completed three chef knives. I’ve used 1095 and W2 for two of them, as I’ve used this steel multiple times and was also looking for a Hamon. They don’t show in the pictures as I have not etched yet. The 3rd blade and my first time using the steel is 15N20. It was 1/8th thick I had a 3 foot x 2” section.

After warping in heat treat and subsequent snapping of the blade trying to straighten, I read this forum and found you need to keep it a little thicker, so I only set the bevels and heat treated then finished grinding watching my heat closely, regular water dips. After normalizing cycles on all blades I clay wrapped.

I had read on this forum 15N20 can give a nice Hamon. I followed heat treat recipe closely, using kiln not Forge due to soak requirements, and the W2 and 1095 now that polished to 220 grit show the Hamon clearly in the right light. The 15N20 I cannot see anything? Would this be due to removal of almost full blade st cutting edge from grinding. Mostly a flat grind, so lots was removed after HT but I did not over heat the blade.

Should I bother continuing to polish for Hamon or would I save some time just putting a satin finish on it with my scotchbright belt and buffer? I’d hate to spend another couple hours sanding this one blade if there’s not going to be any activity.

Any advice? Anyone have a successful Hamon on 15N20? Did it take a huge polish to reveal it? Here’s a pic of the blades but with this camera you won’t see the activity in the other two bladesz.
 

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I suppose I should note I did a second blade after breaking the first one of 15N20, the Hamon on the 1095 looks great, not sure if the W2 it’s there but until I etch the 1095 is popping out more from polishing. I’ve gone up to 400 grit on all 3 the 15N20 looks great but again not seeing any Hamon activity yet? I cycled last time at 1425 for 10 min from preheat of 1300, twice after working my way from 1600, 1525, 1475 once each. Cooled. Ground to 220, just set the bevels and left almost 1/10” thick. Clayed with Rutlands.

Preheated and added blade at 1350, let it go to 1465/1470 to soak 20 min then highspeed oil quench for 10-12 seconds the played between two 1.5” thick aluminum plates.

Tempered twice for two hours at 400 although the second temper cycle was 20 min longer as I got tied up. I’ve ground down primarily flat to .25 mm and last belt used was an A45 showed the Hamon on first two nicely but not this blade. I’m very busy and tired and tempted to just throw this in for satin polish, but I’d hate to lose the Hamon if there is one. If anybody has tried this with this steel can you comment on how yours appeared before etch? Muchly appreciated
 
Others here have gotten nice hamon on 15N20. Aldo of New Jersey Steel Baron told me that 15N20 he sells can make nice hamon.

Having said that, I haven't tried to a hamon on his 15N20, though I've edge quenched and at 400 grit belt finish can see the quench line and difference between the hardened steel and the softer steel though it's not a high visual contrast. Sanding to higher grit and/or etching I'm guessing it would show better but I wasn't chasing that so couldn't tell you for sure.

I know that some of the makers here have a LOT of experience with 15N20 and hopefully will chime in with better insight.
 
The addition of nickel in 15n20 makes it too deep hardening to be a good candidate for a hamon.

Hoss
 
I have never had a 15N20 hamon? Didn't think it was likely because of the nickel.
 
DevinT said:
Wow, nice. I didn’t know it was possible.

Hoss
Click to expand...

I tried it with his other thicknesses, but I got a faint hardening line. It seems his 0.130” stock is quite low in the manganese range. If you have to anneal it before you can drill it, it probably won’t hamon.

Edit: it was also austentized at 1460f, and quenched in DT-48.
 
Last edited:
Willie71 said:
I tried it with his other thicknesses, but I got a faint hardening line. It seems his 0.130” stock is quite low in the manganese range. If you have to anneal it before you can drill it, it probably won’t hamon.

Edit: it was also austentized at 1460f, and quenched in DT-48.
Click to expand...

Good stuff, thanks.

Hoss
 
Our friend from Bestar Jeff Sinko used to be out friend from B-U/Voestalpine Strip. He told us that the new strip steel mill in Austria was capable of rolling up to like that .190/5mm MOL and that is why we can now get AEB-L up to that thickness. Th thickest that I can find 15N20 or 75Ni8 is in that 3mm MOL range of .120-.125
 
Thanks for the advice, I purchased mine from Alpha and it did need annealing. I brought it up to hand sanding if 1500, the 1095 and W2 clearly visible, going to vinegar then, don’t think I’ll bother with the 15N20 as it looks great the way it is, polished up nicely but not a trace of a Hamon!
 
Just checked Aldo’s, although they still haven’t updated their site for Canadian orders. It appears his .130 is sold out, I had contemplated buying a bit just to try since this one was a fail (beautiful knife but fail on the Hamon) but alas even at 15x48 he isn’t showing anything in stock let alone a 1-2” bar stock. Well I do fine with W2 and 1095 / 1075 and still have lots of it in stock in the shop along with some CPM stainless grades and other tool steels, so I’m not in a rush to buy a bunch of metal, but if anyone knows of anyone with a 15” piece or larger at 1.5-2” wide of Aldo’s .130 stock I’d be more than happy to buy it from you and pay the shipping and a littkevfir your trouble, just to try it out. Cheers, and thanks I think I’ve grabbed a better understanding why this didn’t come off for me. Cheers!
 
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