Hand filing.

[sph3ric pyramid]

Anybody have some tips on keeping everything nice and even while hand-filing bevels in? I've been using a marker to try and hit all the high spots, but the main problem is with keeping the bevels flat throughout the process. Just had to junk a blade because the bevels were off slightly, and there were some marks on the spine.

I've looked into draw filing, but I don't actually have a proper vice to hold things even (using clamps and a 2 by 4). Maybe I should just build a jig to file things even. Hmmm.

Waiting for the day I can afford a belt sander, and have a place to put it!

 

[sph3ric pyramid]

Er, never mind. Draw filing took care of 95% of the problems, and I can get rid of the rest of the imperfections with some abrasive paper.

 

[JensJ]

hi sph3ric,

draw filing is the way to go, IMHO. I also file my blades, first crosswise to the blade, going slow and frequently checking for high spots-using a marker like you do.
Then I switch to draw filing-works geat for me. Using clamps and fastening the blade to a 2*4 should work fine. If you drill the tang holes first, you can also use 1 or 2 screws to fasten your blade to the 2*4...takes a bit of practise to get there, but it sounds as if you are on the right track.

Jens

Edit: you were faster

 

[pso]

sph3ric

I am a newbie too. On both of the knives that that I made, I used only files and sandpaper. Drawfiling is definitely the way to go to get a flat grind. It removes metal much faster and the file does not clog up with the shavings anywhere near as much as when using strokes along the length of the file. Use good quality, SHARP files, otherwise you are making a slow process MUCH slower. Clean the files frequently with a file card. Rub some chalk on the files after cleaning to prevent the shavings from sticking to the file.

To hold the blank while filing, I screwed them onto a piece of 2X4 and clamped the wood in a bench vice. I put two screws through the tang. When cutting the profile of the blank, I left a 1/2 inch wide, 1 inch long piece of scrap sticking out from the spine at the point of the knife. The scrap area is skewed away from the cutting edge of the knife. I put a screw, with a low-profile head, through the scrap into the wood. The skew keeps the screw head out of the way when grinding or sanding. This arrangement keeps the whole length of the blade steady much better than using just the two screws in the tang. Keeping the point of the knife screwed down also prevents you from impaling yourself on it if you slip while filing or sanding. When you are done with the filing and the sanding at lower grits, the extra scrap can be cut off using a saw or a cut-off wheel in a Dremel tool. The cutting marks on the spine can be cleaned up along with the rest of the spine.

Hope this helps. Enjoy!

Phil