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hand rubbed finish
- Thread starter Lycosa
- Start date
Well, it depends on the finish. Rubbing in one direction only, like petting a cat, has no validity on any "finish" I'm aware of. If you can rub it, you can rub it both ways. Now you might mean rubbing (in this case sanding) with the grain. Yes, always do that.
To answer your question directly: yes, you can get a decent finish. In fact, it's the best way (in my opinion) to "hand-rub" a piece of wood.
If you're using, say Danish oil, and rubbing it in with 220 wet/dry, I would let those coats dry and then do another with at least 280. When dry, Danish oil (in this example) will leave a satin sheen finish. You can then use a green pad (I use black - there are lots of grades for finishing, similar to steel wool) to take the sheen off. In fact, you can use the finishing pad to apply your choice of wax, and then buff that off with a brush and cloth. This will take some of the sheen off, wax your item at the same time, and leave you with a nice luster.
Dont try "hand-rubbing" finishes such as varnish, shellac, polyurethane, etc. THe best finishes for rubbing are oil-based like tung oil, boiled linseed oil, Danish oils, etc.
To answer your question directly: yes, you can get a decent finish. In fact, it's the best way (in my opinion) to "hand-rub" a piece of wood.
If you're using, say Danish oil, and rubbing it in with 220 wet/dry, I would let those coats dry and then do another with at least 280. When dry, Danish oil (in this example) will leave a satin sheen finish. You can then use a green pad (I use black - there are lots of grades for finishing, similar to steel wool) to take the sheen off. In fact, you can use the finishing pad to apply your choice of wax, and then buff that off with a brush and cloth. This will take some of the sheen off, wax your item at the same time, and leave you with a nice luster.
Dont try "hand-rubbing" finishes such as varnish, shellac, polyurethane, etc. THe best finishes for rubbing are oil-based like tung oil, boiled linseed oil, Danish oils, etc.
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2007
- Messages
- 957
Are we talking about hand-rubbing the blade or the wood? Of course, most rules apply to both. I've heard back-and-forth polishing leads to fish hooking, but I tend to use tight circular motions when finer grits are involved.
Also, I'm not sure what the grit equivalent of Scotch-Brite scouring pads is. I usually use maroon hand pads (#7447, about 400 grit) for satin finishes and light gray (#7448, about 800 grit) for semi-gloss.
I respectfully disagree that shellac shouldn't be rubbed out. Since layers of shellac dissolve into one another, it is an ideal candidate for rubbing. I do agree rubbing oil finishes is also very beneficial and can leave the surface of the wood so smooth you can see your reflection. I usually cut a piece of Scotch-Brite about 1.5x3", dip it in the oil/spirits mix, and start working it in.
Also, I'm not sure what the grit equivalent of Scotch-Brite scouring pads is. I usually use maroon hand pads (#7447, about 400 grit) for satin finishes and light gray (#7448, about 800 grit) for semi-gloss.
I respectfully disagree that shellac shouldn't be rubbed out. Since layers of shellac dissolve into one another, it is an ideal candidate for rubbing. I do agree rubbing oil finishes is also very beneficial and can leave the surface of the wood so smooth you can see your reflection. I usually cut a piece of Scotch-Brite about 1.5x3", dip it in the oil/spirits mix, and start working it in.
Oh no, I didn;t mean that. I agree with you. Shellac should be rubbed out between coats and after the final coat...in almost every case I can think of. In fact, unless someone wants a super-high gloss finish, ALL finishes (oils, oil/varnishes, polys, varnishs, lacquers, ALL of them) should be rubbed out to one degree or another. But this is after the finish has dried, even if between coats.
I may have misread the original posters question. When I replied, I thought he meant "hand-rubbing" a finish into the wood, which is done during application when the finish is liquid, not after drying. In this case, shellac should never be rubbed (in its liquid state). The ONLY time you would ever "rub" a shellac finish while in its liquid state is during french polishing. While I'm accomplished at french polishing, I'm no expert, and certainly this is definitely not what Lycosa was asking about.
And you're right about the pads. I don;t use maroon, but I use the gray (not black).
I may have misread the original posters question. When I replied, I thought he meant "hand-rubbing" a finish into the wood, which is done during application when the finish is liquid, not after drying. In this case, shellac should never be rubbed (in its liquid state). The ONLY time you would ever "rub" a shellac finish while in its liquid state is during french polishing. While I'm accomplished at french polishing, I'm no expert, and certainly this is definitely not what Lycosa was asking about.
And you're right about the pads. I don;t use maroon, but I use the gray (not black).
Either. The thicker the liquid, the slower the work and the more 'polish' it has. If you are going to finish with a scrubbie or some polishing compound on a cloth then dry paper works well.
Change paper often, it collects debris and wears quickly.
Also if it feels like it has loose grit on it, then wash and dry it before use.
It all depends on how fussy you're going to be about the finish.
Greg
Change paper often, it collects debris and wears quickly.
Also if it feels like it has loose grit on it, then wash and dry it before use.
It all depends on how fussy you're going to be about the finish.
Greg