Hey Jason. With Rhynowhet in particular I wouldn't be too concerned about the exact grit progression. I hand finish virtually everything I make (yeah you know why) and have Redline in P80, 120, 220, 320, 500, 800, 1200 and 1500. Honestly though, I think my stuff would look about the same if I only had P120, 320, 500, 800. Other grits sometimes make it go faster (but not necessarily better).
On another thread somebody made a comment about the efficiencies of picking the most aggressive tool for the purpose at hand AND having the wisdom to put it down once it is served.
I keep thinking about that lately and readily identify with the concept, but grit selection in hand finishing isn't really like that IMHO. It's mostly a surface effect where the goals should focus on continuity, uniformity and parallelism (not necessarily to mirror finish though - as in, why not just buff the crisp right out of them.)
We have all seen blades poorly finished - all the way to 2k no less. Complete with missed waves, deep scratches, j-hooks, decarb bark and other issues. In your stainless, I'll take a well-done P320 satin any day over a rushed rookie job at P2000. Doesn't seem to matter as much with carbon-steel users as they all eventually get patinated anyway. Higher grits supposedly lend better stain/corrosion resistance but customer education is way more effective at that in my opinion.
So...bottom line: I'd suggest grinding to 400, as you do, then hand sand starting at P320, then P500, and finish at P800. Maybe buy a ten pack of each and give it a shot. All for less than $20 delivered. You already know this but patient practice with your particular gear is the real key here - regardless what materials are being used.
BTW I had a smile reading through your other "tester" thread, especially seeing your O-1 necker hammered into that Chinese-made POS. Your knives are ready to work - no doubt about it!! Sure hope to see you at DG's next month.
