hand sharpening not for me

L

LEE IN VA.

Joined
Jul 3, 2011
Messages
48
I tried sharpening by hand today with sandpaper on glass. I just dont have the patients for it. Tried 320 to 2000 grit on my kershaw folder not much sharper than when I started. So now im thinking paper wheels, I have a grinder, not a low rpm like richard j recomends, so that makes me a little hesisatant to get them. Also considering the work sharp system, they seem to not have many complaints esp. For a beginner like me. Any suggestions?
 
I have used the higher speed grinder with the paper wheels with great results. I recommend you practice a while with junk before your good stuff. You really can't go wrong if you follow good safety with power tool and grinder guidelines....Herb
 
Lee, you need to get it sharp, cleanly slicing paper, with the 320 grit before moving up a grit. Take it slow and hold tthe angle steady as you can. Raise a burr on one side, then the other, at every grit.

Saying that, paper wheels are faaaast :) A higher speed grinder is fine you just have to be a bit more careful when learning.
 
I make my own knife sharpner with 2 sticks. you just have to pull your knife through the sticks. good luck. I have my leek and when I get done I can shave my arm with it.
 
When I got serious about sharpening, I first went to Walmart to buy a $7 folder knife for practice.

Then I sharpened that a _billion_ times until I got comfortable. ie: sharpen... whittle paper? No? Repeat/refine technique. Eventually, success, whittles paper! Then... sharpen... Whittle hair? No? Repeat.... Eventually, success, whittles hair! etc. That $7 folder is getting pretty ground down. Worth every dollar for the practice, and if I destroy the edge, I don't care.

If you can swing it, stuff like WickedEdge Precision Sharpener and the EdgePro are top-of-the-line for guided hand-powered sharpening systems. They're very nice, but very expensive. EdgePro is considered, by some, to have a taller learning curve than WEPS because the blade is not fully clamped. If you want powered, then ask richard j about paper-wheels (pricing, setup, etc.). If you are rolling in money and want a powered system, you can consider the Tormek system.
http://www.wickededgeusa.com/
http://www.edgeproinc.com/
http://www.tormek.com/en/

If you can't afford WEPS or EdgePro, then you might do what a lot of people do, which is something like a Lansky or Gatco kit. They're pretty good, although in my experience not quite as precise as I want. But they're way better than I can do as a free-hand noob. I went down this route, but ended up buying higher-end equipment later. In this price range, there is also the DMT guided setup and KME sharpening system, which seems pretty interesting.
https://lansky.com/index.php/outdoor/universal-system/
http://www.gatcosharpeners.com/sharpeners.mgi?mgiToken=41D30B03457BD4622E
http://www.dmtsharp.com/sharpeners/guided-sharpening/
http://www.kmesharp.com/kmeknshsy.html
I think paper wheels are a little more expensive than this group of sharpeners, but not by much at all; but richard j would be the authority here on what to buy (you can ask on his super-long paper-wheel thread). I think WorkSharp is also in this range, but I honestly know almost nothing about it.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...ing-wheels-when-your-time-is-important-to-you
http://www.worksharptools.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=90

Finally, if you're crazy ambitious about building your own guided sharpening-rig, you can do that too. I did this, but it's not really recommended for the sane, or for people new to sharpening.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...Inspired-by-WickedEdge-and-ApexPro-Pict-Heavy

There also systems like the Sharpmaker (a "V stick") setup, and also sharpening ramps for hones, but I would consider those semi-free-hand setups. If you're having trouble with free-hand, I would start with a fully guided sharpening system, not these.
http://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details.php?product=77
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXhrqfV5jvs

Oh, I forgot to mention the Scary-Sharp System is sandpaper on glass (like you are doing), but with a guided jig. I don't know that much about this for sharpening knives, but it's liked by a lot of woodworkers for chisels.
http://www3.telus.net/BrentBeach/Sharpen/jigarch.html#userjigs

There are a ton of other ways to sharpen, plus techniques etc. These are just the ones that seem common from what I've heard.

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,
--Lagrangian

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"What grit sharpens the mind?"--Zen Sharpening Koan
 
Last edited:
Lagrangian said:
I think paper wheels are a little more expensive than this group of sharpeners, but not by much at all; but richard j would be the authority here on what to buy (you can ask on his super-long paper-wheel thread). I think WorkSharp is also in this range, but I honestly know almost nothing about it.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...ing-wheels-when-your-time-is-important-to-you
http://www.worksharptools.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=90
Click to expand...

I've actually found that paper wheels are quite a bit cheaper then a lot of systems, espeically if you already have a grinder like the op says he has. 25-35 bucks is all it cost. For me, they work great! I'd recommend them.
 
You need to learn the mechanics behind sharpening. This is not something that you develop in one sitting, one day, or even one month.
 
I find the Worksharp to be more forgiving than paper wheels due to the fact that the belt flexes. That's not to say even a beginner can't get a sharp edge on the paper wheels, just that it won't look very pretty. That said, the Worksharp is more prone to rounding off the tip because of that.

Still, I recommend trying the sandpaper again, but backed on a mousepad instead of glass. Unless you're sharpening a Kershaw factory edge, I find it unlikely that you're not getting it sharper than when you started. So long as you feel the burr before switching sides or changing grits, it should get sharper.
 
Lee, where in Virginia are you?

If you buy lunch, I'll meet up with you and teach you to free hand sharpen. I'll supply the stones and you have a dull knife and when we're finished you will be able to sharpen. Or I'll pick up the lunch tab.:thumbup:

Carl.
 
Thanks for the replies, jacknife I'm near Norfolk, VA. I'll give free hand another try or two, but as impatient as I am I may have to try some thing else.
 
lee, your grinder will work ok to run the wheels on. you just need to practice a lot on some cheap knives before moving on to any expensive knives. if you want some help with hand sharpening i'll be glad to give you a call. i have a few tricks that might help you out.
 
Lee, I am among the worst sharpeners in the whole forum, but I feel like posting here too.
As I told u, I took this bull by the horns very recently, read some thread, bought some sandpaper (and now 3 DMT stones) and started learning. And it was clear from the beginning that, as for any "fine" procedure made with ur hands, it needs time and practice. If u are not that patient, I suggest that u try sharpening with some guided system or help but I think u shouldn't give up freehand sharpening. The Sharpmaker (or any other tool u choose) could help take u anxiety off...and meanwhile u can still practice freehand.
My experience is that sharpening ur own knife freehand helps u develop a "feel" for that particular knife. I know it may sound insanity, but I'm also sure many people here understand what I mean. I am an awful sharpener, but still I managed to get a shaving edge on one knife (an Opinel). It's been (by far) my mostly carried knife ever since. So don't give up this quick.
Also, u are given here an incredible opportunity: meeting one of BF most inspirational members, and having a "custom" sharpening lesson for the price of a lunch. Wish I lived in Virginia...
:cool:
 
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