Handkes

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Nov 8, 2015
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So my hatchet head should be coming soon and well I don't have a handle yet. Any that I like are either rated for 1-1 1/4 or are 18 inches. I'd like one that's around 15 inches for my hatchet that's 1.8 pound head. Some will fit but they are straight. I prefer the feel of a curved handle. So my question is, how bad of a handle would it be if I used some pine I had laying around to make a handle


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sorry.. a little clarity for myself but if it's a full "tang/haft" handle and you're applying scales on the side it will work... pine is soft and won't last forever and it isn't strong but if the handle is strong it will "do" but hardwood is better. if it's a head and needs a wooden handle, then definitely hardwood.
 
sorry.. a little clarity for myself but if it's a full "tang/haft" handle and you're applying scales on the side it will work... pine is soft and won't last forever and it isn't strong but if the handle is strong it will "do" but hardwood is better. if it's a head and needs a wooden handle, then definitely hardwood.

Yes it's a head that needs a wooden handle. How do I identify hardwoods? Go out with my stepdads axe and hit them and the one that's the hardest I make a handle with?


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as a general rule of thumb.... " hardwoods " loose their leaves in the winter and "softwoods " do not...... not 100% accurate, but should be good enough to narrow you down your search a bit.

After you identify a tree you know looses its leaves in fall and winter, test it with your thumbnail.... softwoods you should be able to scrape some bark off and drag your thumbnail across the wood underneath and leave a pretty good permanent line in the wood.... hardwoods you'll be much harder pressed to leave any kind of indention in.

Again, not hard and fast rules, but it should get you a suitable piece of wood to get you a handle made out of....

whatever you do, don't use that pine... pine is prone to fracture along grain lines under impact leaving very sharp pointy ends of stick pointing back at your face.... dangerous.
 
Hi Bladedude. I am picking up that maybe you are a younger guy (nothing wrong with!) and maybe techno literate.

If you have a smartphone you could try the app "Leafsnap" put out by Columbia University, the University of Maryland, and the Smithsonian Institution. It identifies trees and plants based off a shot of leaves and your region. Get a leaf off the tree, put it on a piece of white paper, take a picture and it ID's your flora.

If you are curious about what type of trees or plants you have physical access to, it might be interesting regardless of making a handle.

See what you have around there and then search if it a hardwood or softwood or suitable for a short handle - or ask here as there is a wealth of knowledge hanging around in here.

Anyone can give you a list of the best wood for a handle but if you don't have someone around to ID the trees for you then it becomes guesswork if you don't have experience with tree identification.

If your stepdad knows trees you can ask him as well. Pine is pretty soft. I've used it successfully for smaller tool wedges in a pinch but for a handle you want to put time into making yourself, you might be disappointed.
 
A 14-15" hickory Link handle at the hardware store should get you going perfectly. Pick one up and hang the head when you get it. Either that or order a hatchet handle from House Handle. They have a few different lengths.
 
I'll likely buy a handle but for the sake of asking, would shaping a wooden baseball bat into a handle work even if baseball bat is of unknown wood? I wouldn't know if any baseball bats are soft wood


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I'll likely buy a handle but for the sake of asking, would shaping a wooden baseball bat into a handle work even if baseball bat is of unknown wood? I wouldn’t know if any baseball bats are soft wood

No functional baseball bats are made of softwoods.
In the wood trade ’softwood’ has nothing to do with the actual hardness/softness of the wood. It is a traditional trade term for a wood from a conifer tree (pine, spruce, larch, redwood, cedar, juniper, yew etc.):
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Softwood

Hardwoods are not necessarily harder than softwoods: think for example of balsa wood, which is technically a ‘hardwood’.

There is a reason why axe handles are made of some types of hardwood rather than softwood: the fiber structure of softwoods make them more brittle, less resistant to the violent shocks handles are exposed to.
Not all hardwoods are useful for that use either: a wood can be very hard and brittle in the same time.

There is a certain combination of hardness, stiffness, elasticity and other mechanical properties which makes some types of wood useable for striking tool handles.
In North America hickory and ash are widely available and are the most commonly used woods for axe and hatchet handles, because they are on average more shock-resistant and are considered to transmit less shock to the hand than other woods.

When buying or making a handle, please take the time and read up on the properties of a good wooden handle: straight grain, i.e. no grain run-off is essential.

I personally would also suggest you buy a hickory handle from the sources SC T100 mentioned.
Today’s baseball bats are made mostly of some type of maple - generally weaker woods than that of the average hickory handles.
There are also some ash baseball bats available on the market. Ash wood (depending on the species) is generally better suited for hatchet handles than the wood from the various maple species.
I still think that hickory is the way to go.

Good luck and please let us know what was your choice & how did it work out for you.
 
Decided to make one found some nice hard wood out back. Put log in center with one end held down hit other with 8pb sledge and no breaking or cracking. Grain looks good to me.
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removing bark at my chopping block. Yes it has a nail to hang my saw. Hatchet head gets here Saturday and if crap hits the fan I'll go buy a handle


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Just wanted to toss in another angle. You may in fact be able to find yourself a regular curved hatchet handle in roughly the length you're interested in that will fit your in-bound head. Rather than going by weight, I would just measure the eye when the head shows up, and then see if a handle at the local hardware store is close (the part of the handle which is fit to the axe eye is called the tongue). A little too big is great, but if it's just a touch too small sometimes even then you can make it work. The shoulder is going to be the fat part of the handle that the head seats down on. If that is big enough that you can get a tight fit there, you can make it work. A little bit heavy head on a shorter handle is simply user preference IMO and I wouldn't hesitate to hang it that way if that's what I wanted.
 
Buy a really fat full sized axe handle from the hardware store and carve a new handle out of it,
You were already think about carving one and with this you can sorta follow it's existing shape but much smaller.
You'll want to use the bottom end as you'll need enough material to have a nice fawns foot.
 
Just wanted to toss in another angle. You may in fact be able to find yourself a regular curved hatchet handle in roughly the length you're interested in that will fit your in-bound head. Rather than going by weight, I would just measure the eye when the head shows up, and then see if a handle at the local hardware store is close (the part of the handle which is fit to the axe eye is called the tongue). A little too big is great, but if it's just a touch too small sometimes even then you can make it work. The shoulder is going to be the fat part of the handle that the head seats down on. If that is big enough that you can get a tight fit there, you can make it work. A little bit heavy head on a shorter handle is simply user preference IMO and I wouldn't hesitate to hang it that way if that's what I wanted.

I just bought a regular straight hammer handle for it. It has a small eye and it was six bucks for the handle.
f20c4e3353ee40bb0bfc0cba64a9e65c.jpg



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I just bought a regular straight hammer handle for it. It has a small eye and it was six bucks for the handle.
f20c4e3353ee40bb0bfc0cba64a9e65c.jpg



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Can you show us the top and bottom of the eye ?
From the current picture I can already see a gap.
 
Can you show us the top and bottom of the eye ?
From the current picture I can already see a gap.

There is a gap front to back. As long as it lasts this camping trip I'll be happy though. It's been strong lately. Should I put a piece of wood to fill the little gaps?


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There is a gap front to back. As long as it lasts this camping trip I'll be happy though. It's been strong lately. Should I put a piece of wood to fill the little gaps?


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I would carve a piece that you can put all the way through the eye.
 
No functional baseball bats are made of softwoods.
In the wood trade ’softwood’ has nothing to do with the actual hardness/softness of the wood. It is a traditional trade term for a wood from a conifer tree (pine, spruce, larch, redwood, cedar, juniper, yew etc.):
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Softwood

Baseball bats are traditionally made out of hardwoods, commonly Ash or Maple.
 
Hickory has always been the preferred wood, in the US at least. What part of the world do you live in? Hickory is a nut tree, Tree ID is something you have to be shown in person. Being able to recognize them ( all 4 seasons) is a lot of work, if you want to know more than a very few trees. for small amounts of looseness, you can just soak the head and handle overnight in a container of water. the very minor rust that you might get, you can remove easily with some steel wool. You can use wooden wedges to fill larger gaps.
 
Hickory has always been the preferred wood, in the US at least. What part of the world do you live in? Hickory is a nut tree, Tree ID is something you have to be shown in person. Being able to recognize them ( all 4 seasons) is a lot of work, if you want to know more than a very few trees. for small amounts of looseness, you can just soak the head and handle overnight in a container of water. the very minor rust that you might get, you can remove easily with some steel wool. You can use wooden wedges to fill larger gaps.

Soaking in water is a temporary fix that will make the problem worse.
 
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