Handle Block size

weo

weo

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Sep 21, 2014
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Hello all.
I know that the average/standard size for blocks is about 1 1/4" x 2" x 5 1/2" (+/-).
I have cut my spalted maple burl blocks a bit oversize to allow for some loss due to shrinkage from drying and potential warping during stabilizing. Some of the blocks are (IMO) so pretty that I don't know where to cut them to meet the standard size. I'd like to sell them as is to let the customer decide what part of the block is the prettiest to them, but Dave Lisch told me that he doesn't like that because it makes extra work for him to either cut the block or extra grinding to get to the finished handle size.
What do you all think?

Thanks and best of luck to all those on the east coast, especially the Carolinas. Stay safe.
 
The dimensions you list are already on the large size, so over that is pretty excessive (for future reference), but if they are already cut, trimming them a little bit more is probably of little value.

They should be cut square and the residue from stabilizing sanded off. Spend a little time cleaning them up to show well.

If they are in blocks you could offer them to be cut as scales. Some guys want blocks, and you may have a few of each (blocks, scale sets).
 
I don't make nearly as many knives as Mr. Lisch so the extra time it takes to determine which part of the block works best for me is not a concern. I'd rather make that decision for myself because the orientation of the pattern or grain is important. If the block is quite a bit oversized you could possibly get two handles out of it and end up with less waste than yielding one handle from a standard sized block. Bigger blocks are usually better for me, within reason. The thickness can be very important though. For guys like me who like a wide flare at the butt it can be tricky to find blocks with enough thickness for that kind of thing.
 
TRfromMT said:
They should be cut square and the residue from stabilizing sanded off. Spend a little time cleaning them up to show well.

Some guys want blocks, and you may have a few of each (blocks, scale sets).
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response, but those are not answers to my question. If you would have checked what I'm selling, you would have seen that I already do the above.
 
I think the folks who sell a bunch of wood do fine selling a variety of sizes of blocks and scales but the majority are slightly oversized like close to 5.5-6" x 2" x 1+". Look at Burlsource, Greenberg Woods, Arizona Ironwood, and similar. One thing I've noticed is they can charge more because they put extra effort in preparation like squaring up, flattening, surface sanding, and some type of quick finish and/or buffing.

Everybody has different preferences depending on what they make. Somebody who makes little neck knives is going to want different size than somebody who only makes large Bowies. If the wood is visually attractive, it will sell regardless unless priced too far above the going market.
 
At the moment I work on small and medium sized knives. A larger block can be four pairs of scales to me. Also don't throw away under sized blocks or odd pieces. Small knives need handles too and odd pieces tickle creativity
 
2" wide is good, i can get 2 wa handles out of that or 1 big western style with a bit of curve to it and a good size beak. 1-1/4" is way thick but depending on some of the punkiness or eyes that could be a good thing. I try to avoid those areas in the wood even if it is stabilized and voids are filled with resin.
 
Thanks for all the replies.
Perhaps I should have been a bit clearer or given an example in my question.
I have a couple of stabilized blocks that are 1 1/8" x 3" x 5". Dave said I should cut these down.

It looks like most folks think like me and don't mind the extra work so that they can decide which portion of the block looks the best to them.
 
I would not cut them down if it was me. I could get 4 paring knife handles from a block that size. I have K&G stabilize a lot of blocks that are 2 1/4 x 2 1/4 x 10" for myself. I cut them as needed.
 
weo weo , you should be careful. Asking about how to sell products is an iffy thing to do, especially without a dealers membership. Its one thing to post sale threads in the section, its another to ask about how to sell materials in the shop talk.
 
It is best to keep all references to selling out of threads like this. You can discuss preferred handle block size without mentioning orders, customers, or selling.

For anyone who posts these type threads - here is how this thread could avoid any issues:
"Hello all.
I know that the average/standard size for blocks is about 1 1/4" x 2" x 5 1/2" (+/-).
I have cut my spalted maple burl blocks a bit oversize to allow for some loss due to shrinkage from drying and potential warping during stabilizing. Some of the blocks are (IMO) so pretty that I don't know where to cut them to meet the standard size. I'd like to sell them as is to let the customer decide what part of the block is the prettiest to them, but Dave Lisch told me that he doesn't like that because it makes extra work for him to either cut the block or extra grinding to get to the finished handle size.
What do you all think?

Thanks and best of luck to all those on the east coast, especially the Carolinas. Stay safe. "

If that was changed to,
"Hello all.
I know that the average/standard size for blocks is about 1 1/4" x 2" x 5 1/2" (+/-).
I have cut my spalted maple burl blocks a bit oversize to allow for some loss due to shrinkage from drying and potential warping during stabilizing. Some of the blocks are (IMO) so pretty that I don't know where to cut them to meet the standard size. I was told that some people don't like the extra work in cutting the block or extra grinding to get to the finished handle size.
What do you all think?

Thanks and best of luck to all those on the east coast, especially the Carolinas. Stay safe. "
 
May I give my opinion please? I always want oversize blocks or scales for a couple reasons: # 1 I may want to make a full tang knife that is large and don't like parts of the grain on the block before cutting into scales # 2 same thing except on hidden tang knives. # 3 if I am making a knife with a long tapered tang and I want a full width at the rear to contour. # 4 I want to match up book matched scales where the grain is on a decided slant. # 5 "you can always take it off but you can never put it back". Just my opinion again. Larry
 
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