It seems the dryness this winter has not only been hard on my hands but also on some of the horn handled khuks. Been getting pretty good at repairing the cracks in these handles. Have been using Devcon 2ton epoxy with good success. Have not tried Acra Glass bedding compound although I have used it on rifles in the past. Using the epoxy it is possible to make the cracks all but disappear. Seems to last too.
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Handle cracks
- Thread starter hoghead
- Start date
I have been getting very fine cracks in horn handles. They are so small that I could not get any epoxy in them and didn't try. I used superglue to seal them, and then basically soaked the handles in udderly smOOth udder cream for a day or two.
This seems to have worked for a Bura villager sirupati, since I have had minimal cracking - but this requires frequent examination of the knives. Wooden handles have not needed any care since they were finished with tung oil varnish.
I just received a really nice Amtrak sirupati from HI. There were no cracks, and I basically covered the horn handle with udder cream for a couple of days. It kept soaking up the stuff.
I tried completely coating the horn handle of a Bilton. This is not the prettiest way to finish a knife - at least without a buffer - but I will let you know if this solves the cracking. The knife seemed to develop multiple very fine (short) surface cracks in the horn, even after treatment. The lanolin helped this knife, but not for long.
How big have your cracks been? How hard has it been to fix the problem?
This seems to have worked for a Bura villager sirupati, since I have had minimal cracking - but this requires frequent examination of the knives. Wooden handles have not needed any care since they were finished with tung oil varnish.
I just received a really nice Amtrak sirupati from HI. There were no cracks, and I basically covered the horn handle with udder cream for a couple of days. It kept soaking up the stuff.
I tried completely coating the horn handle of a Bilton. This is not the prettiest way to finish a knife - at least without a buffer - but I will let you know if this solves the cracking. The knife seemed to develop multiple very fine (short) surface cracks in the horn, even after treatment. The lanolin helped this knife, but not for long.
How big have your cracks been? How hard has it been to fix the problem?
- Joined
- Sep 22, 2003
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All of mine have cracks.
Something I have wondered:
Wonder if there is some sort of acrylic or epoxy based clear coat type paint that you could tape up the butt cap and then dunk the handle in and then buff it off and then it would seal it and prevent further cracking.Plus it could seep into the cracks too small to put glue in.
Anybody ever try to seal one? Any suggestions on what to use.
Something I have wondered:
Wonder if there is some sort of acrylic or epoxy based clear coat type paint that you could tape up the butt cap and then dunk the handle in and then buff it off and then it would seal it and prevent further cracking.Plus it could seep into the cracks too small to put glue in.
Anybody ever try to seal one? Any suggestions on what to use.
I haven't tried this but -
I asked about sealing horn on another forum. A knifemaker suggested the use of Watco Danish Oil to seal horn. He said that he used it on horn and bone and it worked.
I can not guarantee this, but I may go out an buy some Watco and give it a try.
I asked about sealing horn on another forum. A knifemaker suggested the use of Watco Danish Oil to seal horn. He said that he used it on horn and bone and it worked.
I can not guarantee this, but I may go out an buy some Watco and give it a try.
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- Mar 26, 2002
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Should permeate to some degree.
I think it's just linseed/tung oil in a thin solvent
to carry it deeper into the wood.
Horn is porous.
-Well- cured horn may be the best answer.
I don't really know how well this horn is cured,
but what seems a recent problem with cracking
may be a supply problem given the upsets in nepal now
I think it's just linseed/tung oil in a thin solvent
to carry it deeper into the wood.
Horn is porous.
-Well- cured horn may be the best answer.
I don't really know how well this horn is cured,
but what seems a recent problem with cracking
may be a supply problem given the upsets in nepal now
I don't know why this problem exists. Perhaps there was a bad batch of horn. None of my horn handled Khuks have cracked as described, other than very hair thin lines, at most one or two. The horn has shrunk a bit, though, but no problem. As mentioned. just tightening or sanding things down cures that.
I've been buying horn handled khukuris for two years and not had these problems. I do leave a light coat of hooflex on them now, escpecially since many of you have had problems.
munk
I've been buying horn handled khukuris for two years and not had these problems. I do leave a light coat of hooflex on them now, escpecially since many of you have had problems.
munk
- Joined
- Sep 22, 2003
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- 13,182
I think it's odd too Munk. I can't help but think that it is just not being allowed to cure enough before it is cut up and put on. I have seen old khukuris and ancient stilettos with horn handles that were perfectly intact.
Been using plenty of hooflex too. On the handles of course. Things seem to drink it up. Just like my hands. It's a little more humid in the summer and don't have the problem then. Also notice that sheaths with their wood liners tend to shrink a little this time of year and make it hard to draw some of the khuks.
No expert at all, a lost in the wilderness knife nut, but yeah, something must be wrong and curing is the most likely suspect.
Let's face facts: There is no way a hardy people in the Mountains are going to use horn handles on what was a life essential tool if horn is unreliable.
Horn is not unreliable. I've pounded the living h-ll out of many horn handled khuks. Not one blinked or cracked or even sighed.
I like horn and wood. It is always hard for me to choose. I've worked with wood all my life. When I was 7 or 8 I carved a Christmas Tree ornament out of wood. Refinishing weapons is a much loved hobby of mine. But horn is special. It is not easily obtained in our United States and it is not the same animal as from Nepal.
Horn is good. It is strong. The deep color is wonderful. The feel of the beast it rode on is evident. By Cracky! We love our horn.
Something is wrong.
munk
Let's face facts: There is no way a hardy people in the Mountains are going to use horn handles on what was a life essential tool if horn is unreliable.
Horn is not unreliable. I've pounded the living h-ll out of many horn handled khuks. Not one blinked or cracked or even sighed.
I like horn and wood. It is always hard for me to choose. I've worked with wood all my life. When I was 7 or 8 I carved a Christmas Tree ornament out of wood. Refinishing weapons is a much loved hobby of mine. But horn is special. It is not easily obtained in our United States and it is not the same animal as from Nepal.
Horn is good. It is strong. The deep color is wonderful. The feel of the beast it rode on is evident. By Cracky! We love our horn.
Something is wrong.
munk
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- Sep 7, 2001
- Messages
- 5,946
So, if some horn handles are cracking because they aren't properly cured, is there a way to cure it as it sits on the blade? 
I reckon I could put a light coating of goop on the handles like munk does and cover the handle with a plastic bag in the winter.
How about wax? Would a wax coating keep the horn from drying out? I'm sure a superglue finish might work.
I reckon I could put a light coating of goop on the handles like munk does and cover the handle with a plastic bag in the winter.
How about wax? Would a wax coating keep the horn from drying out? I'm sure a superglue finish might work.
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- Sep 22, 2003
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- 13,182
That's what I wondered. That's why I asked about sealing it. If you could seal the sides and it just lost moisture from the ends would it dry more slowly and then not crack?
I know the wood on some of the wood handles shrinks some, but some others it doesn't at all. So that tells me maybe the wood is somewhat green too.
I know you can dry wood enough to sand it smooth and finish it but if it is not dried enough there doesn't seem to be any way to keep it from cracking as it cures, so I am not sure if it can cure on the handle. Also it seems like if you cut a log into little peices the little pieces will crack as they cure. But if you let the log dry some whole first and then cut it in little pieces less of the little pieces crack.
I know the wood on some of the wood handles shrinks some, but some others it doesn't at all. So that tells me maybe the wood is somewhat green too.
I know you can dry wood enough to sand it smooth and finish it but if it is not dried enough there doesn't seem to be any way to keep it from cracking as it cures, so I am not sure if it can cure on the handle. Also it seems like if you cut a log into little peices the little pieces will crack as they cure. But if you let the log dry some whole first and then cut it in little pieces less of the little pieces crack.
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http://www.stabilizedwood.com/info.shtml seems like a commercial, but may be of some use.
http://www.engnath.com/public/handles.htm doesn't SPECIFICALLY apply to horn "curing," but a helpful and nicely-done site by a knife maker on handle materials.
http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/horn/horng.html working with horn...nice and informative, (I like the meal worm thingie)
And maybe the most curious of all the sites I looked at:
http://dice.onaraonline.org/conservation/horn.php
Enjoy.
http://www.engnath.com/public/handles.htm doesn't SPECIFICALLY apply to horn "curing," but a helpful and nicely-done site by a knife maker on handle materials.
http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/horn/horng.html working with horn...nice and informative, (I like the meal worm thingie)
And maybe the most curious of all the sites I looked at:
http://dice.onaraonline.org/conservation/horn.php
Enjoy.
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- Oct 18, 2001
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- 20,978
basically, if it once was alive and now is dead, then it's going to be susceptible to moisture.
The only way to prevent cracking 100% is to inject a non-porous, manmade substance into the material that is impervious to moisture. That's what stabilized wood is.
The only way to prevent cracking 100% is to inject a non-porous, manmade substance into the material that is impervious to moisture. That's what stabilized wood is.
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My thought is that as the horn dries out and shrinks it has to crack to relieve the pressure exerted on it from the inside by the tang and the laha.
I don't think horn is as forgiving or as pliable as the wood after it's put on the khuk but there have been cracked wood handles before as well, just not as often.
Asking whether the horn could be cured after it's installed the answer is that the -horn curing-, or drying out, is what is causing the cracking if it is indeed uncured or moisture laden horn.
The only sure fire way to possibly prevent it from cracking if it's uncured or moisture laden would be to remove the horn handle from the tang and wait about six months or so, keeping the horn in a dry and semi controlled atmosphere before putting it back on.
Doing so would relieve the pressure from the horn shrinking on the tang and solid laha.
I haven't had any horn crack on me other than a few small surface cracks that haven't went anywhere and that was before I started putting anything on them.
Since then I haven't noticed any enlargement or further cracking but then all of my horn handled khuk's are the older ones and the horn was well cured.
I can't see BirGhorka using uncured horn anymore but I could be mistaken. Another factor may be the monsoon season. I'm not sure exactly when that is but if it's 100% humidity in Nepal and 15% or less in Reno there could certainly be problems. The horn for handles is probably just in a big pile out in the weather and that could possibly affect it as well.
From seeing complaints about horn cracking since I've been here in the forum it always seems that winter is the worst time for it so extra care would be necessary and problems could still develop from what I've seen here lately.
I don't think horn is as forgiving or as pliable as the wood after it's put on the khuk but there have been cracked wood handles before as well, just not as often.
Asking whether the horn could be cured after it's installed the answer is that the -horn curing-, or drying out, is what is causing the cracking if it is indeed uncured or moisture laden horn.
The only sure fire way to possibly prevent it from cracking if it's uncured or moisture laden would be to remove the horn handle from the tang and wait about six months or so, keeping the horn in a dry and semi controlled atmosphere before putting it back on.
Doing so would relieve the pressure from the horn shrinking on the tang and solid laha.
I haven't had any horn crack on me other than a few small surface cracks that haven't went anywhere and that was before I started putting anything on them.
Since then I haven't noticed any enlargement or further cracking but then all of my horn handled khuk's are the older ones and the horn was well cured.
I can't see BirGhorka using uncured horn anymore but I could be mistaken. Another factor may be the monsoon season. I'm not sure exactly when that is but if it's 100% humidity in Nepal and 15% or less in Reno there could certainly be problems. The horn for handles is probably just in a big pile out in the weather and that could possibly affect it as well.
From seeing complaints about horn cracking since I've been here in the forum it always seems that winter is the worst time for it so extra care would be necessary and problems could still develop from what I've seen here lately.
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If the handle cracks because of pressure from the laha inside, dunking the handle in hot water for a period of time might help. This might liquify the laha, allowing it to flow into any voids in the handle, therefore releasing the pressure.
Is it because the karda and chakma aren't full tang that they don't seem to crack? I've never had one crack and no one has ever mentioned one cracking before.
Is it because the karda and chakma aren't full tang that they don't seem to crack? I've never had one crack and no one has ever mentioned one cracking before.