handle finish

[30-30 Cal.]

Hi guys,

I know this is going to sound like a silly question, but when do you know when you have properly sanded down a handle? I rough out my handles using a 36 grit belt and move to finer grits. I then move to sanding paper and work down. The problem I am having is the more I sand the more "defects" I see. The thing is, I suspect I am confusing the grain of the wood for left over sanding marks. What is the best technique for sanding-finishing a handle? (Hope you guys will humor me on this, but I bet I'm not the only guy trying to figure this out

Dave

 

[jiminy]

I generally do something something like; rough out with course grit ...36, 50, 80(whatever), then move to 100-150 grit, then 220 grit, then 320-400, then 600, then 'course' and 'fine' steel wool. At that point it should be ready for your finish. Flaws in the sanding should show up around 400 grit or so, and just move back a step (or to 220 grit or so if necessary) to remove them and then work your way back up. You can use a palm sander for the finer grits, and just keep moving the palm sander back and forth in the direction of the grain as you move laterally across the surface of the wood. Likewise, once you get past the 'rough out' stage, all subsequent sanding is done 'with the grain'.
On some woods you can skip the steel wool (as it actually makes it look worse ...mahogany, for example), and stop at 600 grit or so. On natural woods, if you sand it much finer that 600 grit (or fine steel wool), it closes the grain too much and your finish won't always apply correctly.
The best method of testing for smoothness is to use your fingers, not your eyes, as your fingers when rubbed on the wood (again, with the grain) can detect rough spots that your eyes won't pick up. (Evidently there are a bunch of very sensitive nerve endings in your fingers ...especially the fingertips. )

 

[30-30 Cal.]

Thanks, Jiminy

I suspect part of the problem is the wood, some finish better than others. Ironwood, for example, in my opinion finishes like a dream. The peice of cocobolo I am currently working on seems to have all kinds of small dark spots, which look a lot like scratches. I've pretty much done the same thing you describe, although I haven't used steel wool. Perhaps I expect the wood to look better at this stage than I should, just got a little frustrated.

Thanks for the reply,

Dave

 

[z537z]

What do ya'll use for finish, anyway? Looking for something cheap-n-easy available locally.
Also, do you go right over the tang between wood slabs, or do you not touch the metal w/ finish?

Thanks

_z

 

[jiminy]

Tung oil works great for an oil finish. Readily available and easy to apply.
I've also used 'home brew' oil or 'wax' finishes in the past (what the old-timers used to use back before there were hardware stores on every corner) ...one such recipe is a mix of paraffin wax and mineral oil (great for kitchen cutlery, as it won't contaminate food). I can't remember the exact proportions off the top of my head, but the consistency should resemble shoe polish or mink oil.
Shellac is also a great natural finish for wood (you've got to work fast though). Marine varnish is also good, but getting harder to find these days.

With the oils you can generally go right over metal. With other finishes it's easier to mask the metal off if you can, otherwise you've got to remove any finish you get on the metal, which can be a pain.

 

[Ilovetoolsteel]

Hi guys,

I know this is going to sound like a silly question, but when do you know when you have properly sanded down a handle? I rough out my handles using a 36 grit belt and move to finer grits. I then move to sanding paper and work down. The problem I am having is the more I sand the more "defects" I see. The thing is, I suspect I am confusing the grain of the wood for left over sanding marks. What is the best technique for sanding-finishing a handle? (Hope you guys will humor me on this, but I bet I'm not the only guy trying to figure this out

Dave

One tip for removing all the scratches from the previous grit is to change the direction you are sanding. Make your new grinding marks 45 degrees to the previous grit.