Handle finishes

M

meteogeek

Joined
Jan 18, 1999
Messages
57
I'm curious as to the thoughts/experience of the group here regarding handle finishes. I've done some research on this topic and have noted several opinions and ideas that folks have about this. So far, I have used dymondwood which merely needs a good buff. The resin within the wood serves to give handles a nice sheen (if that is what one desires). I have also used super glue (3-5 layers)on two or three handles which also gives a nice finish on natural hard woods. Other applicants that I have not tried include Danish oil, tung oil, linseed, polyeurethane and carnauba wax (and there are still others I'm sure...got an uncle who does wood sculpture and uses linseed oil, I believe, and he melts carnauba wax into a warm pan of the linseed oil. Rubs the mixture into the wood and it's drop-dead gorgeous). I have stayed away from oil based finishes because I understand that natural hard woods will oxidize or natural oxidation is accelerated due to the oil and, as a result, the wood will darken with age. I further understand that some woods do not need a finish because of the natural oil contained in the wood itself. I think Lignum Vitae is one of these woods and only a fine grit finish (600 grit) is sufficient.

Are there other finishes that others have used with acceptable/outstanding results with natural hard woods and other materials such as micarta? Do most folks use oil-based finishes or some other finish? What other woods are there that are quite oily thus not requiring a finish of these sorts?

Thanks in advance for any/all info.

>> DeWayne <<
 
I have used Micarta on a kit knife and it worked VERY well. Easy to shape using hand files, and for a finish I used the following sandpapers: 200, 300, 400, then 600. I then buffed it with a Dremel and the red buffing compound that Dremel sells in the little jars. This didn't really shine it up, but it cleaned up the Micarta dust out of the pores and made it look deep and richly colored, while still retaining a grippy, satin-like finish. I hope to have pictures up sometime in the next decade, so keep your eyes posted for the URL here when I get it done!
Steve
 
DeWayne,
I think finishes vary from one knifemaker to the next. I like I like beeswax melted with linseed oil.. let it soak then finish it off.
The beewax stops the oxidation.
 
Am I correct that when working with a high-oil wood like blackwood, you don't need to finish the surface at all, or is it that you only do not need to seal it?
Aaron

------------------
Why did you stab that girl?
You won't believe this, but I had too much coffee!
-Edmond by David Mamet
aaronm@cs.brandeis.edu
 
I love a linseed oil finish. You heard right, it doesn't prevent the wood darkening with age (but most of us like nice dark old wood.)
smile.gif


If you want it light use lacquer instead and you might want to bleach the wood first. Two-part bleaches designed for wood lighten it much more than Chlorox does. Lacquered handles cause blisters if you use them much, but the lacquer protects the wood from the darkening effect of ultraviolet light.

-Cougar Allen :{)
 
There are so many woods called blackwood I don't know which one you're asking about. If you mean grenadilla aka African blackwood, seasoned grenadilla is first sawn into blanks and then soaked in linseed oil under pressure for years before being made into clarinets. A knife handle doesn't have the extreme need for stability a clarinet has, though, so that kind of extreme certainly isn't necessary.

Some woods will hold up pretty well with no finish at all but I think any wood should at least be given a little oil or wax once in a while. Linseed oil hardens into a finish but even so it should ideally get a little more rubbed into it once a year.

-Cougar Allen :{)
 
I used Danish oil to treat the curly Arctic birch handle of my Roselli puukko after a moose hunting trip last fall. Brought it back to looking like new; I think maybe Roselli uses something similar. It's more durable than linseed oil, doesn't wash off when wet (smells better, too).
 
DeWayne
If you thin the linseed oil with mineral spirits (paint thinner) to 50/50 it penetrates the wood much deeper than pure oil. Also, BOILED linseed oil refers to a chemical drier mixed in, some people react to skin contact some don't. Linseed oil does make a nice finish, really brings up the grain.

------------------
P.J.
YES,it is sharp, just keep your fingers out of the way!
www.silverstar.com/turnermfg


 
I suspect that safflower oil could be used as well. With or without the beeswax. Safflower oil has better UV resistance than linseed oil and is used in oil based paints where better UV resistance is necessary. I think I have some around. I will try it and let you know. I have also used tung oil and produced a nice effect.

Regards,
Glenn
 
Thanks, I was referring to African Blackwood. I have to get some Danish Oil anyway, so I think that'll be the choice of the day
Aaron

------------------
Why did you stab that girl?
You won't believe this, but I had too much coffee!
-Edmond by David Mamet
aaronm@cs.brandeis.edu
 
If you use linseed oil apply the thinnest coat possible, it has to oxidize to harden and a thick coat will remain gummy, make sure it's dry before the next coat or you'll have the same problem.

------------------
P.J.
YES,it is sharp, just keep your fingers out of the way!
www.silverstar.com/turnermfg


 
one thing some of you might not be aware of, as i am a former woodworker...be careful with the rags soaked in most of those oils.. spontaneous combustion like you wouldnt believe...know of a guy who burnt his whole wood shop down like that....and another who burnt up his van with a brand new custom table in it....dont think vegetable oil without anything in it will ever dry....
 
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