Handle grinding/sanding questions

L

Led Boots

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Nov 19, 2014
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I'm going to be getting started on my first knife build. I have most things in order to get started, but I have a couple questions about the handle finishing process:

I'm unsure what sanding method to use for shaping. I have access to an old 1" belt sander, but I'm not sure what kind of belt to use.

If I use a wood specific belt, will the pin material mess with the belt?

Conversely, will a metal specific belt work okay on the wood?

Also, given the pin material is harder than the scale material, is there a trick to keeping them even with the wood during sanding?

Or am I completely over thinking this?
 
I have used both, a wood belt will work fine for the handle pins. The wood belts file both away just fine. The pins will just get a little hot. It is best to take periodic breaks to allow the handle pins to cool down a little. It isn't necessary to use a specific kind of belt for handles. I've used wood specific sand paper on aluminum, brass, wood, and steel. Works just fine. Just go slow. A metal belt will work fine on wood, but it may discolor the wood depending on what materials the belt has in it, especially if there are any steel shavings left over on the belt from grinding. If you have ever sharpened a chainsaw blade on wood in a saw/stump clamp and let it sit for a day, the wood will turn a blue color from the steel shavings oxidizing and will stain the wood a bluish color. I doubt it will be an issue if your using stabilized wood, but it might not be the best idea to use a metal belt for a wood handle. It probably would be just fine though, as I have used my wood belt for metal, then used it for wood again without any problems. *When you sand, there is no trick to keeping the two materials even with each other. The material just comes away slower. Glue the handle in with some epoxy, and leave a CM of metal on each side. I like to strike the handle pins a few times with a ballpeen hammer and a vice/anvil just to create a bit of a peen on the handle pins, then clamp the epoxy to set before I sand out the block shape of the knife. It works to solidify it all and creates a much stronger bond. Then sand the peens down flush on either side and go at it. You are overthinking it a little, but hey. That is what this place is for. :thumbup:
 
I use cheap 50 or 60 grit aluminum oxide for rough shaping the handle. Then 220 and up to whatever finish you desire. You can grind the pin or screw with the same belt. I use the 50 grit against the platen to get them flat. Go slow, if you get them too hot they can burn the handle material. After you get them level with the handle they will pretty much grind along with the handle. Light pressure with higher grits or you can burn the edges. It's pretty simple after a couple. Keep the handle design simple until you get the hang of it. I use corby rivets personally. They look like pins once you grind the head off and are easier to use in my opinion. You can't get mosaic or decorative one if that's what you're looking for.
 
Zemapeli said:
I have used both, a wood belt will work fine for the handle pins. The wood belts file both away just fine. The pins will just get a little hot. It is best to take periodic breaks to allow the handle pins to cool down a little. It isn't necessary to use a specific kind of belt for handles. I've used wood specific sand paper on aluminum, brass, wood, and steel. Works just fine. Just go slow. A metal belt will work fine on wood, but it may discolor the wood depending on what materials the belt has in it, especially if there are any steel shavings left over on the belt from grinding. If you have ever sharpened a chainsaw blade on wood in a saw/stump clamp and let it sit for a day, the wood will turn a blue color from the steel shavings oxidizing and will stain the wood a bluish color. I doubt it will be an issue if your using stabilized wood, but it might not be the best idea to use a metal belt for a wood handle. It probably would be just fine though, as I have used my wood belt for metal, then used it for wood again without any problems. *When you sand, there is no trick to keeping the two materials even with each other. The material just comes away slower. Glue the handle in with some epoxy, and leave a CM of metal on each side. I like to strike the handle pins a few times with a ballpeen hammer and a vice/anvil just to create a bit of a peen on the handle pins, then clamp the epoxy to set before I sand out the block shape of the knife. It works to solidify it all and creates a much stronger bond. Then sand the peens down flush on either side and go at it. You are overthinking it a little, but hey. That is what this place is for. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Rookie25 said:
I use cheap 50 or 60 grit aluminum oxide for rough shaping the handle. Then 220 and up to whatever finish you desire. You can grind the pin or screw with the same belt. I use the 50 grit against the platen to get them flat. Go slow, if you get them too hot they can burn the handle material. After you get them level with the handle they will pretty much grind along with the handle. Light pressure with higher grits or you can burn the edges. It's pretty simple after a couple. Keep the handle design simple until you get the hang of it. I use corby rivets personally. They look like pins once you grind the head off and are easier to use in my opinion. You can't get mosaic or decorative one if that's what you're looking for.
Click to expand...

Thank you very much, guys. That's exactly what I needed.
 
Someone told me a few years ago that if you can do Any shaping on a wood handle with nice rasp, do it. That may require super glue or short dummy pins, but you get a certain feel and you will surprised how accurate you can be with just a rasp, your eyeballs and fingers..
 
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I'm new at this but getting better with each one. I don't use the belt much because it's too easy to take too much off. I do a real rough shape on the belt, get closer to the line with files, and then start at 100 grit by hand. When you switch to hand sanding you really gotta be careful about sanding near metal of any kind. i.e. Bolsters, spines, pins, etc... I keep my pins even with the wood by using small files to file them down if they are a little higher than the wood. It becomes more noticeable the higher and smoother the grit.
 
It usually takes me about three hours to shape a handle using all hand tools. I was amazed when I watched someone skilled use their grinder since it went very much faster. That is the main advantage of the grinder, speed. Disadvantages are that you can screw up faster too, that you can easily over heat the handle or pins, that it throws a lot more and finer dust around(which is invariably bad to breath) and requires a range of grits, belt backings and wheels to have full control.

If you want to try by hand, I took some photos of how I do it...
http://www.spyderco.com/forumII/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=44349&sid=db830311282f7f3f335b2d2d404fe73d
Good luck :D
 
C_Claycomb said:
It usually takes me about three hours to shape a handle using all hand tools. I was amazed when I watched someone skilled use their grinder since it went very much faster. That is the main advantage of the grinder, speed. Disadvantages are that you can screw up faster too, that you can easily over heat the handle or pins, that it throws a lot more and finer dust around(which is invariably bad to breath) and requires a range of grits, belt backings and wheels to have full control.

If you want to try by hand, I took some photos of how I do it...
http://www.spyderco.com/forumII/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=44349&sid=db830311282f7f3f335b2d2d404fe73d
Good luck :D
Click to expand...

That's great...Thank You
 
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