handle+linseedoil+ancient glue

[Buckx]

Untill now I finished my handles with polyurethaan finish in a sprayer.I like to try it with linseedoil. The book of Bo Bergman uses it with gum turpentine. I can't find that in my English-Dutch dictionairy. Is it the same as turpentine u use by painting?
I put silver/rootwood/stone in ebony and glue it with the authentic bone-glue(what you get when you cook bones , the jelly stuff)does that still go well in combination with the linseedoil?

 

[jeffj]

Gum Turpentine is a thinner/carrier for the linseed oil and evaporates out as the oil dries. It should be the same solvent used in thinning oil paints. I would not suggest using a bone glue with the oil since I don't know how it will react with turpentine, but it may be fine...test it. Linseed oil is considered a drying oil and in raw form will take a long time to dry. You can use boiled linseed oil which has been processed to dry faster, but be warned that most linseed oils will darken (blacken) when exposed to ultraviolet light (unless they have uv inhibitors added). I would suggest you use pure tung oil instead of linseed oil. It is more water resistent, harder, dries faster and will not darken like linseed oil. If you can't find any, then a wiping varnish is very good also since they mostly use tung oil as a base. If in doubt read the ingredients on the can...if it includes tung oil then it will give you a pretty good finish in general.

Oh yes, and lightly steel wool between finishes.

Jeff Jenness


[This message has been edited by jeffj (edited 08-20-2000).]