Handle modding on a blem

pmwc78

Gold Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2010
Messages
755
Bought this guy a month or so back, the blem was a handle crack that was not in the best shape.

115.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

the crack ran along the spine and was 3" starting under the bolster an running down the handle.

So......



Off, with his horn!


098.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

ground off the peen, and pried the horn apart starting at the split. Chipped the laha out from under the bolster too.


That handle was way too long for my hands.

Next, time to trim up.

102.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]


cut off an inch of the tang, and notched it to fit the buttcap again. I peened the cap back on, trimmed a 1/4" off the bottom of the bolster the re-attached by packing with epoxy putty.

Time to rebuild.

I used the handle wrap method to make Micarta-ish handles. There are videos online for a how-to.

follow all the safety recommendations you see, there is no such thing as too much ventilation.

grind, grind, grind

127-1.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]


120.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

Still some cleanup to do and this is far from a best effort. I spent plenty of time learning how not to do this along the way.

Fun project overall, if you are looking a buying a blem it may be worth the effort to make it a very good knife that is undeniably "yours"
 
I like it. Nice pattern in the micarta and I'll bet you will never have to worry that the new handle would fail! Well done.
 
My oh my! That turned out very nice. I've still got that 25" Sirupati from the 26th with a cracked horn handle on it running around my brain.

I know going in it needs a new handle and actually want to try doing one. This isn't helping my cause of trying to control my Khukri addiction.

Nicely done pmw, looks great.
 
Thanks, the project was worthwhile. It really did make the knife, well, mine.
 
Nice Job, pmwc78!
Thanks for sharing.
That's the nice thing about the blems, no worrys about customizing them and making them your own.
The blade still carries the usual warranty.
 
Great job, the homemade micarta takes a bit of work but they are super tough and look fantastic!
 
I've watched some vids on the epoxy/denim wrapping, I get it.

I realize you need to dremel/sand these into shape - this all makes sense to me. I'd love to give this a shot - but I'm still clueless on this bolster removal and repeening process. I tried to search the forums but I'm coming up empty. Anybody have any advice (or a link) on that part of the rehandle process?
 
but I'm still clueless on this bolster removal and repeening process. I tried to search the forums but I'm coming up empty. Anybody have any advice (or a link) on that part of the rehandle process?
1)Tape off cutting edge of blade securely, to avoid being cut while working.

Removal

2) Grind or file off the very end of the tang (the silver part in the middle of the buttcap/keeper) being very careful not to take too much off and causing damage to the keeper. Do not pry off as this will usually ruin the keeper by making too large a hole to re-peen over.

3)Bring large pot of water to a boil. Use an old pot that you will no longer need for cooking. It must be large enough to cover handle completely. If you are also removing the bolster, it will need to be covered too.

4) Place handle of khukuri in heavy duty freezer bag and submerge in boiling water.
Put on leather work gloves.
Within 5-10 minutes the laha (Himalayan epoxy) will soften and you can wiggle the buttcap/keeper assembly off.
The laha will harden again quickly, you will probably need to re-submerge the handle again.
When laha is soft again, you can the pull the handle straight off. Bolster also if you wish.

You may have to boil the laha several times, as it resets quickly.

Installation

1) It is best to use Epoxy with a longer curing time as you will need time to adjust bolster and handle assembly. The longer the cure time the better the epoxy will hold.

2) Dry check fitting before applying any epoxy, do this until you are comfortable doing it quickly and are satisfied with fit. Adjust fit as necessary.

3)Mark on blade with sharpie where bolster needs to be in order to be in alignment with handle.
The bolster end of the handle is often fitted to be inside the bolster. Fill bolster with just enough epoxy to fill end where it comes into contact with blade. Be sure to put some around edges of bolster where handle will be fitted into.
Fill handle with enough epoxy to fill all voids between tang and inner handle.
Wipe off excess epoxy.
Secure these with duct-tape in perfect alignment with each other.
Dry fit buttcap and keeper and adjust handle as necessary to be sure they are in alignment with handle.
Epoxy them both on to end of handle.

Let epoxy fully cure.

4)Place blade it shop vice using wood shims to prevent galling of blade as you peen.
Using flat punch and hammer, carefully peen tang end over keeper without using such force that you crush it.
Peen all the way around keeper to secure handle.

Remove all tape and then scrape or sand any excess epoxy leakage.
Finish sand.
Buff.
 
Well done Karda!

I will say this bugger was tough. Two hours in a boiling pot after grinding off the peen an it wouldn't budge. I had to break it apart by prying. Let no one tell you differently, horn is tough as heck. As for the bolster, once the horn was gone I could get it to break free and slide off the tang. Then a chisel or screwdriver to chip out the laha from inside the bolster.
 
I wonder is the hole in the handle for the rat tail was tight and the horn was driven on a tad like a file handle along with the laha?

That would make it real difficult to get off. Probably boiling the bolster would get the laha out of there.

I'm gonna make an attempt at this one of these days too.
 
Back
Top