Handle Patterns

[VintageAxe]

Over the years I've come into quite a few axes that had old handles on them that had slightly different shapes and dimensions than what you find today. I know Peter Vido touched on this a while ago, but his focus was mostly on the dimensions of the handles, I'm more interested in the form of them. Though of course the dimensions come into that too. I wanted to start a thread asking people to post photos of some of their favorite old handle shapes to get ideas for modifying some of my handles, or even making my own, if I get real ambitious. Once in a great while you see the flat handle patterns come up on the bay but I've never bid on one, so if you have any of those stick em up too. If you don't mind, put up some measurements as well. I'll put up some of my own when the camera battery gets charged.

 

[G-pig]

I like mostly straight for heavier axes or offset handles for smaller ones. Most people haven't had access to these because they buy store handles, whereas I make my own because I'm poor. Pics

Don't know the science behind it, and don't think much of it anyway. I like these shapes better than the more curvatious handles, curvy handlesfeel like they are trying to swing into the ground/my feet. The offset handles especially feel like they are floating, very accurate and not fatiguing. And for what its worth, everyone who has picked up an offset (such as the little 2 1/4 pounder pictured) has commented on the balance in a positive way. In use it works out even better.

 

[Steve Tall]

...

...The offset handles especially feel like they are floating, very accurate and not fatiguing. And for what its worth, everyone who has picked up an offset (such as the little 2 1/4 pounder pictured) has commented on the balance in a positive way. In use it works out even better.

I think a big benefit of the offset is that it brings the edge/bit more in line with the axis of the handle where it's gripped. Better control of the cutting edge.

G-pig, you find pieces of wood with the offset curve already in them, right? Otherwise it seems that you'd be cutting through the grain and getting a weaker handle than one with the grain curving along with the offset.

 

[G-pig]

Yup, the simple way that I explain to people is that the line of the handle is closer to the bit when you grip it than it is with a curved handle.

Sometimes I do used curved pieces, but if you have very straight grain (by that I mean parralel to the axe bit) you can get away with the curvature much more so than with the grain going the opposite way. if you used perpendicular grained piece you'd get a ton of grain run out and a weak handle. Continous through running grain is the most important aspect of handle strenght I think. And that makes the curve possible with straight grain pieces (whereas I only do straight handles out of perpendicular grained stock).

 

[rjdankert]

I like mostly straight for heavier axes or offset handles for smaller ones. Most people haven't had access to these because they buy store handles, whereas I make my own because I'm poor.

I really like those handles. I'd like to make one like the smaller offset one for a 2 1/2 # HB head I have. How thick is that one? thanks

 

[G-pig]

I think its a smidge under an inch at the thinnest point. On a hard use one I will go to around an inch, on a dedicated feller or something i'll do a bit over 3/4". Standard is probably around 7/8" or something. I'd start by going to a bit over an inch and thin it to your preference.

 

[Square_peg]

Sometimes I do used curved pieces, but if you have very straight grain (by that I mean parralel to the axe bit) you can get away with the curvature much more so than with the grain going the opposite way. if you used perpendicular grained piece you'd get a ton of grain run out and a weak handle. Continous through running grain is the most important aspect of handle strenght I think.

I think your reasoning is sound.

One thing the offest may do is move the center of the rotational axis closer to the bit, creating better balance between bit and poll. Whether or not that's a good thing I couldn't say.

 

[G-pig]

It defenitely changes the balance. Just by being lighter and a less fatiguing it will improve accuracy. I think its is more accurate as well, whether that is from the wrist deviation or not I don't know. Alls I know is I swing it better than a curved one!

 

[rjdankert]

Here is an unusual handle (to me).

Saw this for sale on ebay "VINTAGE ELWELL N07 CAST STEEL FELLING AXE GARDEN TOOL TOOLS" Nothing in the description about the handle. Anyone know anything about it? thanks

 

[Square_peg]

This haft came on a broad axe, though it isn't skewed like a proper broad axe haft. It's straight. It's still in good condition so it may get re-used.

To the Golden Retriever it's just another stick and needs to be thrown.

 

[screened porch]

Here is an unusual handle (to me).

Saw this for sale on ebay "VINTAGE ELWELL N07 CAST STEEL FELLING AXE GARDEN TOOL TOOLS" Nothing in the description about the handle. Anyone know anything about it? thanks

Somebody named Elwell established a forge at Wednesbury in Staffordshire England in 1817 which produced until 1930 or so.
(according to a quote from another forum on another forum.)
Very cool axe- is that 7 the head-weight?

 

[thunderstick]

I have never used an offset handle but I think I would prefer to have the traditional handle as the control remains where most of the axe head weight is centered. Your swing establishes the angle of impact for the bit. You control the bit by controlling the weight behind the bit when it strikes the wood. You want to keep the weight aligned behind the angle of the bit established by the swing. The tendency of the poll is to roll on an angled swing but the handle controls that if it is centered more under the poll. Also in splitting with this type of handle the handle will be more susceptible to damage being wider than the taper above it.
In general I tend to resist departure from trends established by years of men working the woods for their livelihood. They would have picked any style that was most effective to their vocation. Before departing from traditional patterns I try to understand why the patterns were developed that way. Not suggesting being stuck in a rut, just saying that before we think change is improvement we need to understand reasoning behind the original design. The curved vs. straight handles have their pros and cons. Grain runout argues for a straight handle but in this link it is obvious also that the typical single bit was known to have a somewhat curved handle. http://naldc.nal.usda.gov/download/CAT87208315/PDF
The curved handle would give a better grip/less slippage on the bottom of the handle and does place more bit control forward without doing it at the bottom of the handle where it will be marred by being wider than the bit. The link mentions that some loggers used a curved handle on double bits which favored their primary usage side. I think the key here is not going to an extreme curve so grain runout is minimized while having some of the benefits of a curved handle for some forward control.
Just my thoughts

 

[G-pig]

Offset is certainly not a modern invention. I have no idea when the idea came about but I would assume it was intended to balance a single bit more like a double bit (which it does, to a certain extent). I have never seen a factory made offset handle as of yet, and honestly apart from the ones I have carved I've never seen one in person.

 

[M3mphis]

I have never used an offset handle but I think I would prefer to have the traditional handle as the control remains where most of the axe head weight is centered. Your swing establishes the angle of impact for the bit. You control the bit by controlling the weight behind the bit when it strikes the wood. You want to keep the weight aligned behind the angle of the bit established by the swing. The tendency of the poll is to roll on an angled swing but the handle controls that if it is centered more under the poll. Also in splitting with this type of handle the handle will be more susceptible to damage being wider than the taper above it.
In general I tend to resist departure from trends established by years of men working the woods for their livelihood. They would have picked any style that was most effective to their vocation. Before departing from traditional patterns I try to understand why the patterns were developed that way. Not suggesting being stuck in a rut, just saying that before we think change is improvement we need to understand reasoning behind the original design. The curved vs. straight handles have their pros and cons. Grain runout argues for a straight handle but in this link it is obvious also that the typical single bit was known to have a somewhat curved handle. http://naldc.nal.usda.gov/download/CAT87208315/PDF
The curved handle would give a better grip/less slippage on the bottom of the handle and does place more bit control forward without doing it at the bottom of the handle where it will be marred by being wider than the bit. The link mentions that some loggers used a curved handle on double bits which favored their primary usage side. I think the key here is not going to an extreme curve so grain runout is minimized while having some of the benefits of a curved handle for some forward control.
Just my thoughts

Notice that the pamphlet states that very tight grain is inferior to rapid growth, spaced grain rings. More spacious growth rings means more flexibility and shock absorption. Very tight grain means it will be more rigid and more brittle. The highest grade handles (ie racing handles) are not permitted to have tight grain. My experience has been consistent with this. I've mentioned this before as being probably the most common misconception regarding hanldes, IMO.

 

[rjdankert]

Somebody named Elwell established a forge at Wednesbury in Staffordshire England in 1817 which produced until 1930 or so.
(according to a quote from another forum on another forum.)
Very cool axe- is that 7 the head-weight?

Thanks. The listing didn't say what the 7 is. I did a google search and found a 7 pound Elwell for sale. The bottom picture shows the head to be 11" long. I'd say that's a pretty good sized axe!

 

[Suspectdevice]

Thanks for that PDF link, thunderstick. Good info there. As far as handle patterns go, the patented pattern for the true temper tomahawk had some pleasing lines to it, visually. I've never handled one but I mean to duplicate it. http://www.google.com/patents?id=1MByAAAAEBAJ&pg=PA1&dq=D122100&output=html_text&source=gbs_selected_pages&cad=3