Handle pinning options....

R

razorhunter

Joined
Jan 27, 2002
Messages
470
Fellas,
I'm building my first fixed blade with full tang through handle, and I've been trying to decide on some good options for securing the scales.
Upon looking at the Loveless bolts, I'm not quite sure, but it looks as if they just secure the scale/handle material via a counterbored hole in the scale???
I don't really care for "slotted/flathead" type fasteners though.

I'm trying to figure out what my options are, and also IF there are any pins/etc that will look nice, but not require epoxy????
Are there such fasteners?
What are you guys using??
 
I use the loveless bolts on my larger micarta handled knives. Very secure. Corby rivets are another good secure fastener. You should still epoxy your handle scales along with pins, bolts or rivets. The epoxy basically acts as a sealant between the scale and tang. Rod material in brass, n/s or stainless is a less expensive alternative. They can be peened very secure then grinded or sanded flat. Mosaic pins are used by some of the guys here. I can't comment, I've never used them.
Scott
 
Don't peen mosaic pins. Makes a mosaic mush and cracked up epoxy :).

Like Scott said, you'll need some kinda sealant. Gee if I could only recommend one ;)

Steve
 
Yes Sando, I know about which epoxies to use now!

Well, I will try and find a knife pictured, where someone used the Loveless bolts, corby's or the acorn ones.
I probably have seen them before, but don't realize it.
I've gotta figure out what to use here....

With Loveless/corby/acorn bolts, are they a PRESS fit, where you drill an undersized hole, or do you just drill a clearance hole, for regular fit, and let epoxy do the rest?
 
2 hour curing time epoxy will hold the scales just fine if you use straight pins thru the scales and tang. I use brass brazing rod on some of mine. 1/8" diameter, 3/16" or whatever you want. Also, aluminum, stainless, nickel silver, etc. rods are available.

It isn't necessary to peen the ends over. Just grind and sand the pins flush with the scales. The epoxy will hold everything. The pins just need to prevent shearing or lateral movement.

If you don't seal the handle with epoxy the steel tang will corrode and everything will come loose. Look at a kitchen knife that's been washed in a dishwasher. :barf:

Some knives are made to be disassembled, but the owner must keep the scales and tang sealed with wax or oil.
 
Razor, I've used both loveless and corby. I've gone to using loveless only now because they are a bit less expensive. With the loveless bolts, you have to drill 3/16" holes in the tang where you need them. After you have epoxied your scales in place and have your holes drilled, you need to countersink holes in the handle scales the size of the brass collars leaving a bit exposed to grind off once the screws are tightened down. You simply, take the bolt or screw and screw it into the collar on one side, through the handle out the other side and tighten. Once it's nice and tight, I take bolt cutters and cut the excess bolt and grind it flat to the handle material. You have an outer brass ring and a inner silver ring. I like the way they look, the brass/silver combo.
Scott
 
Sweet.
Thanks Razorback, Don, etc.

I think I'm going to try the Loveless bolts. I thought that you had a "slotted head" screw head, as a finished product? Maybe on ONE side you still do? I'll just buy some and see.
I did not realize it left a nice brass AND silver when done. The black and white pics in the Sheffield catalog, do me no good.
 
razorhunter said:
Sweet.
Thanks Razorback, Don, etc.

I think I'm going to try the Loveless bolts. I thought that you had a "slotted head" screw head, as a finished product? Maybe on ONE side you still do? I'll just buy some and see.
I did not realize it left a nice brass AND silver when done. The black and white pics in the Sheffield catalog, do me no good.
Click to expand...
You grind off both sides. So they will be the same on both sides.
Scott
 
razorhunter said:
Sweet.
Thanks Razorback, Don, etc.

I think I'm going to try the Loveless bolts. I thought that you had a "slotted head" screw head, as a finished product? Maybe on ONE side you still do? I'll just buy some and see.
I did not realize it left a nice brass AND silver when done. The black and white pics in the Sheffield catalog, do me no good.
Click to expand...


The loveless bolts are a stainless machine screw like you would buy at the hardware store. It comes with 2 brass nuts. You thread one on to the screw all the way up to the screw head. Then you push it through the handle and seat the nut which is next to the bolt head in the first counterbored hole in the handle scale. You then thread the second nut on the other side and and down in to the counterbored hole in the other handle scale. You use the screw head to tighten it down. When you grind the screw head off, the brass nut is underneath.

One piece of advice, Use a hack saw to cut the screw head off. grinding it will get it very very hot and may scortch your handle material.
 
Ok fellas! I got you guys now!
Thanks, that all sounds like the ticket!

P.S.
I was thinking of maybe using some bolt cutters, instead of the hacksaw. IF I can find some smaller quality one's around here locally. A nice set of Klein dikes or linemans pliers might work....
 
Just like Ilovetoolsteel said, don't let it overheat when you grind them flat to the handle. I use a pair of Channel Lock large wire cutters to cut loveless screws and pin stock.
Scott
 
Now lets talk about making your own loveless bolts.

It's easy as falling off a log. Drill and tap some round stock and buy some stainless screws. All you need is a drill press and a V-block. A small lathe will do the job quicker and eaiser, but a drill press and V-block works good.
 
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