Handle Repair?

Joined
Jan 7, 2006
Messages
353
Hey Guys,

Dropped my Hansee the other day and it cracked the handle. How do I repair it, glue and some sanding? If so what type of adhesive is best for wood?

Thanks for any tips!

Billy
 
I'd use any one of the excellent wood glues myself.
This superglue cult is starting to get to me. They use the stuff for everything, sealing cuts, finding fingerprints on materials left around a homocide victim; what next? Breakfast cereal with super glue glaze?

depending upon how bad the crack is. Remember wood needs periodic treatment to remoisturize and protect. Sealers are good.

You may chose to pin your handle at some point. Very easy- drill through handle and tang with small hole, tap in pin.



munk
 
But I have heard that the super glue stuff is really handy in fixing cracks in wood handle. Fast and easy and gets the job done........
 
Depends how cracked the crack is ...

Superglue will work OK for close fitting parts, but it's a lousy gap-filler. I'd use epoxy, mixed with a little bit of sawdust gently taken off the handle itself.

For years now, boatbuilders have been using plain vinegar as the clean-up solvent of choice for epoxy. Much nicer on the hands and lungs than methyl-ethyl-ketone or some such nasty stuff. In a pinch, I've even used Coca-Cola. And if you get to the epoxy when it's still a bit rubbery (i.e. hasn't set up into rock yet), you can scrape off any major blobs etc. and reduce your sanding time later by a huge amount.

t.
 
Billy, post a pic please. I would like to see how bad this crack is and where it is located. I wouldn't use wood glue. Its not good for gap filling, the parts have to contact everywhere. Most of them aren't waterproof, some are water resistant. Epoxy, not the 5 minute kind, is best recommendation so far. If the crack is small you can use the med viscosity super glue. Go to a hobby shop that does lots of modeling. They will have good choices and large quantities cheaply. Please post a pic.
 
munk said:
I'd use any one of the excellent wood glues myself.
This superglue cult is starting to get to me. They use the stuff for everything, sealing cuts, finding fingerprints on materials left around a homocide victim; what next? Breakfast cereal with super glue glaze?

depending upon how bad the crack is. Remember wood needs periodic treatment to remoisturize and protect. Sealers are good.

You may chose to pin your handle at some point. Very easy- drill through handle and tang with small hole, tap in pin.



munk

What is it with not being able to get good superglue without having to go to a specialist hobby store anymore??? Most of the stuff that you get is NOT what USED to be called superglue... That stuff, if you used too much of it to glue wood together, would BURN the wood, and sometime, en extreme conditions even set it on fire!!!:eek: The stuff you get in the store is barely able to hold anything together in my experience...
 
need a better description of the damage....:o
 
Here are some pics guys, thanks! One is from a Blem DOTD and the other was a good one.

Dropped Hansee
P1010005.jpg
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P1010006.jpg


DOTD Blem
P1010001.jpg
 
Billy,

Those are both gorgeous handles that needed to have the yak skat and rouge mixture sanded off anyway. This could turn out to be a blessing. You won't believe how much character will show once you sand and Danish Oil those handles.

That there is an epoxy fix. The brand I use is Devcon 2 ton. I use it because WalMart sells it for <$3 here. Any clear one will do as long as you don't use a 5 minute epoxy. Sand the handles and save the dust. When you've got them rough sanded mix the epoxy and fill the crack. Don't mix in too much dust because your epoxy will get thick and hard to get into the crack. Maybe put some straight epoxy in the crack until you get close to the top. You want the epoxy to fill the entire void. Then rough sand again, and progress to finer and finer paper. Finally put a few (~10 min) of Watco's Danish Oil on it. If you can't get Watcos go to Ace hardware and get Minwax Antique Oil Finish. Good stuff but more $ than the Watcos ($9 vs ~$6).
 
aproy1101 said:
Billy,

Those are both gorgeous handles that needed to have the yak skat and rouge mixture sanded off anyway. This could turn out to be a blessing. You won't believe how much character will show once you sand and Danish Oil those handles.

That there is an epoxy fix. The brand I use is Devcon 2 ton. I use it because WalMart sells it for <$3 here. Any clear one will do as long as you don't use a 5 minute epoxy. Sand the handles and save the dust. When you've got them rough sanded mix the epoxy and fill the crack. Don't mix in too much dust because your epoxy will get thick and hard to get into the crack. Maybe put some straight epoxy in the crack until you get close to the top. You want the epoxy to fill the entire void. Then rough sand again, and progress to finer and finer paper. Finally put a few (~10 min) of Watco's Danish Oil on it. If you can't get Watcos go to Ace hardware and get Minwax Antique Oil Finish. Good stuff but more $ than the Watcos ($9 vs ~$6).

i've used a clamp to good effect here... pack the crack with as much glue of choice you can put in there, saturate baby! then use a padded clamp and try and ease the crack a little closed. though that might cause too much stress, i think in the long run, it would be better.... hard to say.

bladite
 
Both the above are correct.

Here are some pics of one I fixed a while back:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=330115


That will take care of the crack.


Honestly, since there is enough damage to the handle already, I'd say don't bother trying to putty up the butt. (did I just say that? :eek: )

Just sand it smooth and enjoy your "variant". :D
 
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