handle repair

S

seaice

Joined
Mar 22, 2007
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If the (ordinary sort, one piece) wooden handle of a kukri is split along its length, can it be repaired, and if so what is the best way to do it?

ie. what (if any) to use -- two-part epoxy, superglue, or a wood glue with some filling capability?
 
Hey bro'
All the way down?? OUCH!!!

I would replace it if it were me ,but ya might be able to repair it
 
Split more than half of its length along from the butt end.... clean split, slight tapering gap visible.

(ps: unused, and not either an HI or Tora kuk, I should add!)
 
Sand the handle down. Mix some 2 ton epoxy with some of the sawdust. Force it into the crack and allow to dry. Sand. Danish oil. No problem.
 
2 ton epoxy
Click to expand...
Never been sure what you in the USA mean with that -- is it like the slower setting version of Araldite (two tube epoxy) that we get here in Britain?

edit: just found some on e-bay, "Devcon" brand, made in USA

Thanks, Andy!

Btw - and unrelated - when it comes to JB Weld a couple of weeks ago I actually got a couple of packs a fair bit cheaper from the USA via airmail, than if I was to buy the same in the UK!
 
You got it. Its a brand. Me being dumb and all I didn't know you were overseas. Any good two part epoxy will work. Slower cure times just give you more time to work it and cure harder.
 
I agree with Andy. Epoxy is the way to go. One thing I do with cracks, is put some thin superglue in first. It penetrates so well into all the very narrow spaces. Then after that's cured, I use the epoxy mixed with sawdust. Like Andy said, an epoxy that cures in an hour or more will penetrate better and be stronger than the 5 minute type.

Steve
 
This is what I may have to try to repair......

269198060.jpg

269198057.jpg


Would epoxy repairing work ok when the splitting is that bad?
 
seaice said:
This is what I may have to try to repair......

Would epoxy repairing work ok when the splitting is that bad?
Click to expand...

Seaice that isn't bad at all!!!! A little super glue poured in there and then some vigorous sanding with some sandpaper before it dries will make it nearly disappear in nothing flat!:thumbup:
 
Take the whole handle off, continue the split, and you will have the first ingredients necessary to make anti-vampire wooden stakes. Now, reshape and sharpen these pieces of wood until they meet your specifications for a truly lethal custom tactical vampire-slaying implement.

To return to the Khuk, I would then add a [insert any tactical handle material here] handle, with deep checkering to ensure your hand won't slip, since your hand will likely be drenched in the putrid blood of your undead foes. And don't forget to add a hardened spike pommel, designed primarily to smash the zombie skulls.

What comes next for you, a man armed with tactical wooden stakes and a seriously tactical zombiekhuk, will likely remain highly classified, so I won't go on any further.

Best of luck - you're going to need it! :D

Chris
 
those cracks while long are basically hairline cracks and should as noted respond well to superglue. get the thin watery kind, ie. low viscosity, as it will soak into the bowels of the crack better. the crack will 'wick' it up by capillary action. the hi viscosity or 'gel' types will not. when the crack fills, it will take a while to dry, then sand it down & refinish the grip. i'd bet we were initially thinking from your earlier description that the crack was wide open and the tang was exposed ;) best not to try to pry it open to the point you could get epoxy in...
 
That handle looks salvageable to me. Glue it up and see what happens. You can always replace it later if the glue doesn't hold.

One additional thing that I like to do when repairing split wood is to drill a small hole into the end of the crack. This tends to prevent it from spreading. The hole can then be filled in with sawdust and epoxy along with the rest of the crack.
 
I was picturing a much bigger crack. I don't think epoxy will even seep into a crack that small. Superglue is the way to go. Do it just like Yvsa said (always listen to Yvsa).
 
Found a cyanoacrylate glue which is claimed to be slower at setting - so presumably it ought to seep better and further into the split?

Its description as given by the makers/distributors:

25gm SLIP-FIT cyano adhesive, with shelf life of up to 7 years
Special delay cure cyano adhesive with a cure of 1 to 2 min.,
Specialy designed for use in woodturning pens,
(to glue the inserts in without it setting in the wrong place)
Also ideal for bonding dowls or model hinges
`FIVE STAR ADHESIVES` BRAND MANUFACTURED IN THE UK
In bottle with `non-cog` tip, ,
slow set so it will run into place and allow carefull positioning and slip fitted parts​

Should the handle be clamped to force the sides of the split as close together as possible after feeding in the glue, or does the glue-soaked wood itself swell to close the gapping?
 
sounds like the right kind of superglue, i wouldn't clamp - the crack 'cracked' to relieve excess stress in the wood, clamping it shut would just re-introduce that stress. in hairline cracks the superglue will fill it... if intial apps do not fill it, keep applying till it does....make sure you do not superglue yourself to the grip - walking into the ER with a kukhri stuck on your hand and the cops yelling 'drop that weapon' is likely to be a non-survival event. ;)
 
I've got a similar problem as seaice thanks for the info. "walking into the ER with a kukhri stuck on your hand and the cops yelling 'drop that weapon' is likely to be a non-survival event.":D
 
The fellow I bought it off says (having been sent the pictures as above) he would refund the purchase cost... except that he's made a markup on his (uninsured) postal charge - which however wouldn't be refunded.
He's tried to blame the postal service, yet the packaging had no indentations indicative of bad handling in transit (which only took one day).

Today he e-mailed me a rather blurry picture supposedly proving it was fine when he sent it.... except that image enhancement has verified something else entirely - ie. that his e-mailed pictures were not of the same kukri.
So I'm left with a loss either way - fortunately it was not an expensive buy, and its blade and balance do seem pretty good as does the actual handle shape (ignoring the fact it's split).

Real pest is that it was intended as a small pressie for my wife's birthday in the middle of this month - she's not weak but quite slight in build, and although it is light she's wary of using my best kukri (an extremely sharp 21oz/16"-bladed sirupate) on brambles and brush in case she accidentally damages it (or maybe herself!)....
The one in the handle-damage pictures is a 12" bladed chitlange weighing 23oz, which seemed about right for her to use with confidence.

So though less than happy with the situation, I'm inclined towards doing a repair -- but since it isn't me that would be using it, that's why I've been so concerned about the durability/safety of the chitlange handle if I fix the splits. :o
Many thanks to all for the advice! :)
 
Fill the crack with superglue. Sand down the handle. Apply an oil finish such as Watco's Danish Oil. You'll likely not be able to see the crack without REALLY searching for it. Great gift. No problem. In the future, buy from a reputable person. This guy seems shady to me.
 
What Fiddleback said.

It will be fine. Don't fuss. Just fix and give it loving care...enhances the gift. :)
 
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