handle replacement specifics

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Sep 22, 2003
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So we have been talking about handle replacement and I was wondering some stuff:

So I assume that the first step would be to file down the tang in the back and take the cap and keeper off? Is the tang just sanded to be smooth with the keeper? or is it somehow welded? They look so smooth.

On the bolster. Do you just make the new handle to fit up in the old bolster? Or is a whole new bolster formed. Do you put glue in there or what?

On the shaping of the handle. Somebody was talking about a lathe? Could you do a handle on one? They look too oblong for that to me. Plus if you wanted a more traditional handle with that little curve wouldn't you have to carve it by hand?

How do you reattach the buttcap and get it smooth looking like original?

Sorry for all the questions.;)
 
Hollowdweller... Terry Sisco previously informed me he would need only to make a new wood handle, as both the buttcap and bolster are able to be used again. I'm sure there will be someone to chime in just how the process goes. Dan :)
 
1. The tang is peened(and then possibly sanded/poilshed, though don't hold me too that). A bit of filing(or quick trip to grinder) will allow buttcap and keeper to easily be removed.

2. You can keep the original bolster, or make a new one. Going to try to make one out of solid copper here, though don't know how successful it will be, one of AKs I have on bench, and other one just got the origina bolster back(as with that wood brass was fine). I like JB weld for the bolsters.

3. If you want a straight, round handle, lathe is fine, even have some flexbility here, depending on how faster you rlathe turns and how good you are with it. I rough shape AK handles on grinder and then finish by hand(least so far)

To reattach butt cap, repeen tang over the keeper, then sand/polish until presentable again.
 
More questions.

When you file off the tang how much length do you lose on the handle when you put it back on? How difficult is it to peen it back on?

So do you drill the hole for the tang and then gradually shape the end of the handle to fit into the bolster? Is the tang all the same diameter or tapered? Do you drill multiple holes for the wider blade end of the tang?

Do you make the end of the handle flat? or do you make it beveled to correspond to the beveled end of the bolster? Is the bolster smooth inside?

Do you put epoxy in the handle too? or mainly the bolster and butt cap?

Thanks!
 
Hollow, if I was going to replace a handle, the first thing I'd do would be find a cheap file or one of those ebay khuks and do a practise run on it. That way you gain experience without risking one of the HI khuks.

Oh, and don't forget the little loops...;)

good luck with it!

Stephen
 
I think A kukri with a sraight, round, lathe turned handle would be dangerous as it would twist on impact, Kukri handles are meant to be oval or elliptical.

Spiral
 
I always cover the knife's cutting edge with masking tape when I work on a handle. Also adjacent areas that might be damaged by a errant file-stroke or drip of epoxy. I like the blue 3M masking tape for this purpose
There is a handy little double ended file that I use a lot for handle shaping. Woodcraft caries it. Click here
 
3mhas a new orange version of that tape that's supposed to last twice as long safe removal time wise. Useful for people like mw who are slow to finish a project.
 
Great thread. good pic of the blade with the handle off. Was that knife a HI? The bolster and butt cap looked difft. Also the blade looked thicker than the Sirupati I had.

I need to print that out.
 
Originally posted by hollowdweller
Was that knife a HI?

The bolster and butt cap looked difft.

HD that was a Shop-1 HI Khukuri. And that's the bolster I wish they would go back to, but not the butt cap.
That was the scrolled, two piece, butt cap and they couldn't be modified without screwing them up.
They were pretty though. I think the only butt cap like that we have left is the one on Barb's Sop-1 15" AK. I have a couple of balance models with similar caps, but they aren't scrolled.
 
I know that Yvsa ended up breaking one of the as forged blades he got, but he was trying to bend it. If the tang is properly soft though, you should be able to stretch the tang back longer by using a hammer.
 
Yep, what they said. YOu could also selectively temper the tang back to at least a mild spring temper. maybe softer, but have to be very careful about keeping the blade itself cool.

You do'nt lose much filing/grinding the end off anwyays. I think of the two so far, at most I lost maybe 1/4", and I'm guessing closer to 1/8" or so.
 
Hey, Brian, I hope you didn't take my comment about the small pic the wrong way. I was really only asking for a bigger image, but I understand how these things go. Could have phrased it a LOT more diplomatically.
 
Ardvaark?

Anyone who scared the neighbors with a Shepard's sling...might do a lot of things differently. I'm not sure you are cut out to be an assassin.:)

But I like you anyway.
 
Kis, in the words of Monty Python: "See here! Are you implying something??"
 
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