Handle Shaping

H

Hathenbruck

Joined
Dec 30, 2018
Messages
57
Hey everyone,

When I shape handles I usually do a rough shape on the grinder, then starting with 120 grit, I refine the shape by hand sanding through the grits until finished. My biggest issue is when I use two materials of varying hardnesses, like stainless steel pins and G10 or wood scales. I end up having a slightly raised area where the harder material is.

Does anyone have a technique that would combat this problem?

Thanks a bunch for any info you share :)
 
AVigil said:
You need to back your sand paper with a piece of hard material like G10 or steel when working over hard material bordering soft material
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Oh man! I feel like a moron for not thinking of that. hahaha. I have a piece of wood with some hard rubber on it. I'll make another one and glue a piece of G10 to it. Thanks you, Adam!!
 
You are welcome. I use a small flat piece of steel. Metal on one side, rubber on the other so I can switch back and fourth.

Also if you have a small flexible metal ruler that works good as a backing for sandpaper too.
 
AVigil said:
You are welcome. I use a small flat piece of steel. Metal on one side, rubber on the other so I can switch back and fourth.

Also if you have a small flexible metal ruler that works good as a backing for sandpaper too.
Click to expand...
That's a great idea! So you can get the curves?
 
For my western handles I love using a small angle grinder with a flap wheel to sculpt. I hate wreaking belts on wood. Light passes with the grinder let me shape and sculpt the handle very fast without the concern of a belt digging in on the inside corners. They're also stiff enough to get smooth transitions at bolsters.

The handles obviously need to be cleaned up after but it goes much faster and is way cheaper than ceramic belts.
 
I use Ceramic belts for blade grinding & AO belts for handle sculpting. Progression on wood & other handles of 40, 120, 220, 600 grit .. Then hand sand with full hide leather piece backing of 220 then 600 sandpaper ..
 
scott kozub said:
For my western handles I love using a small angle grinder with a flap wheel to sculpt. I hate wreaking belts on wood. Light passes with the grinder let me shape and sculpt the handle very fast without the concern of a belt digging in on the inside corners. They're also stiff enough to get smooth transitions at bolsters.

The handles obviously need to be cleaned up after but it goes much faster and is way cheaper than ceramic belts.
Click to expand...
I'll have to try this. Thank you!!
 
Rhinoknives1 said:
I use Ceramic belts for blade grinding & AO belts for handle sculpting. Progression on wood & other handles of 40, 120, 220, 600 grit .. Then hand sand with full hide leather piece backing of 220 then 600 sandpaper ..
Click to expand...
That's pretty close to what I do, except I use a 400 before the 600, and just use my hand at 400 on. Thanks for the tips!
 
Hathenbruck said:
That's pretty close to what I do, except I use a 400 before the 600, and just use my hand at 400 on. Thanks for the tips!
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You could mostly likely drop out the 400 belt and go to 600 if you are going to hand sand then from 400 on up. Never use Ceramic belts for woods, wreaks the belt & doesn't cut the wood cleanly. Stay Safe & have fun!
 
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AVigil said:
You need to back your sand paper with a piece of hard material like G10 or steel when working over hard material bordering soft material
Click to expand...

The first time this occurred to me to do, it was a glorious moment. Sometimes the simplest things make all the difference.
 
I rough shape on my grinder then I finish with a rasp then sandpaper
The most important tool there is the rasp.
 
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