Handle Shaping

flatgrinder

flatgrinder

Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
2,045
Just wondering how you guys get such good symmetry on your handles?

It's probably easier on a full-tang knife, but if you're making a mortised tang blade, an assymmetrical handle is very obvious.

Any special tools or tricks in getting it right?

Do any of you use a wood lathe to get the initial shape and then use the slack belt to get it where you want it to be?

Thanks!
 
I try to be as accurate as possible with my layout(sharp #3 pencils, sharp scribes, thin lines, triple checking measurements) and leave enough extra material to fix errors(leave the tang hole tight and the outside oversize) and test fit, test fit, test fit, until you are satisfied. Work carefully and don't rush.
Tom
 
I use the top and bottom wheels on my Coote, small wheels, slack belt and coarse sandpaper. All by eye. I've got pretty big hands, so I rough grind it to fit me and by the time I've evened everything up and got into the high grits of sandpaper it's about rite size wise. That doesn't mean I still don't screw up a handle and have to re do it.
 
I rough it in on the grinder, chuck the blade in the vise and shoe shine , the handle to final shape. :D
 
If you're doing a coke bottle shaped handle with pins it's pretty easy to keep fairly good symetry from side to side and top to bottom as the pins will help in setting grind stops, etc.
If you only have the one pin or bolt, like a mortised tang might, just be careful and it helps to have a good eye. As long as you don't take off too much there's always a way to fix it by matching the other side to it.


Take off way too much and you learn what frustration is, when you have to start over.

I've not made any round handles, like British Commando knife style, so I've never had the need for a lathe. I've also never had to use drawings on my handle to keep it right. I envision what I want and just do it.

I use the vertical flat platen, whatever sized contact wheel I deem necessary, but only rarely a slack belt. I just find them too imprecise.

In very tight places I will use a file(s) or sandpaper wrapped dowels, etc.

The more experience you have at it, like always, the easier it is to do.

Don't overheat you handles when grinding. Treat it like you would heat treated steel as it can react badly to heat(some of it). All of it will react badly when you're grinding pins or bolts. If they overheat, it breaks the epoxy bond and will, or can leave a dark ring around the pin/bolt. Heat it bad enough and the handle can warp and let go from the tang in the area you're grinding.

Some woods will crack badly if overheated so that's another reason to use good belts on them unless you're going very slow(another reason VS is a good thing).;)
 
flatgrinder said:
Just wondering how you guys get such good symmetry on your handles?

It's probably easier on a full-tang knife, but if you're making a mortised tang blade, an assymmetrical handle is very obvious.

Any special tools or tricks in getting it right?

Do any of you use a wood lathe to get the initial shape and then use the slack belt to get it where you want it to be?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I bought a huge pile (well not so huge about 40 sq. ft.) of 3/16 paper based micarta,(it cost me like 70ç a square foot) and I use it to make blade and handle templates. I shap this material till I am satisfied everything looks right. Then I use it to scribe my handle. I clamp it in place and adjust it till it looks like it's in the right place and then scribe around the template. The hard plastic wont deform and clamping assures no movement. Plus I can reuse it and I always have a record of a knife or a handle so I don't have go from my memory. I saw the outside of the scribed line and grind to it on the belt.

Once I start shaping I rough grind with the belt then go to the file. What ever area I am working on I work the coresponding area at the same time. I rough shape a small area and flip the handle over and do other side and compare the two. Back and fourth, back and fourth.

What is nice about using canvas or linen micarta for handles is it makes a patern (much like wood grain) that you can compare from side to side.

I like the lathe idea. You could turn the shape yopu want, glue up the knife and then just saw the sides off
 
My main tool for rough shaping handles is a Dremel with different size sanding drums. On thick handles with micarta and woods, I use different size small contact wheels to contour the handles. For stag, horn and bone, a Dremel and sandpaper.
Scott
 
To me lay out is everything. First things first. If you are working with stabilized blocks of wood, they will not come to you S4S. "Smooth four Sides"
Before you start your layout you need to make the block square on at least two apposing sides. This way when you cut the end of the block that will go against your guard or ferrule, that surface will be square to the handle you have laid out on the sides of the block. Once you have all the points, on the handle, laid out in reference to each other its only a matter of the machinery you have that dictates how you remove the material.

Fred
 
I eyeball everything for the most part and try to work with hand tools as much as possible as the more hand work i put into shaping, the better they turn out. I only use the grinder to hog off material.
 
TikTock said:
I eyeball everything for the most part and try to work with hand tools as much as possible as the more hand work i put into shaping, the better they turn out. I only use the grinder to hog off material.
Click to expand...

You eyball those handles :eek: you've got some pretty good eyes .I have an eye like a dead fish :foot:
 
Anyone tried shaping micarta or desert ironwood on a wood lathe? Would it work? Or are materials like this too hard?
 
flatgrinder said:
Anyone tried shaping micarta or desert ironwood on a wood lathe? Would it work? Or are materials like this too hard?
Click to expand...


It might be called "Ironwood" but that doesn't mean it's iron. It's just a dense wood(and there are others heavier and tougher). A wood lathe will work fine with it.

Wear a respirator when you work it and as long as the dust is airborne in your shop. Ironwood has natural pesticides in it(stronger than any you can buy over the counter), along with other nasties to keep bugs out, and is very toxic.

Breathing the dust can cause a fungal infection of the lungs, that in a worst case scenario, can lead to death. Lesser forms of the problem can cause heart irregularities, pneumonia, flu like sysmptoms, etc. None of them fun.
 
I use one very accurate method for handles. It is called Precise Eyeballing. this method require two very important tools. First is very accurate (precise) eye. Second is hard balls; they allow to work without fear to ruin the expencive or unique piece. It is a joke, but in every joke it is a piece of joke... :) It means that some of it is true.

I saw a lot of machine made or machine shaped handles. They are VERY symmetrical, but they looks dead for me. There is nothing absolutely symmetrical in the nature, every shape is slightly irregular. And sometimes asymmetry brings a good kick to the item. That is my HO...
 
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