- Joined
- Oct 25, 2004
- Messages
- 3,178
We've had a few handle threads in recent days and it got me to thinking. I've spent the last year scouring the HI website, the archives here, and some other sources in my quest for the best/easiest/quickest/most efficient finish - not just for any particular material, but for all materials in general. I'm not there yet, but maybe you are.
When I first came here I could refurb a milsurp stock to as-new condition without much trouble...once you know the way it's supposed to be done it's actually very easy. It's not necessarily the most attractive way to do things though and, by and large, my handles looked like crap. I'm fortunate in that we have some very skilled woodchucks here who were willing to help me out.
We (as a forum) have improved our techniques for finishing handles in the little time that I've been here. We have some new members who may or may not be inclined to wade through all of the material from the past. (Some of which is obsolete.) There are some real woodworking experts here. With all this in mind, I ask that we offer up our collective wisdom and trade some notes, all in one place. It's about time, don't you think?
I'll start it off.
Upon receipt, every handle gets cleaned. I spray it down with engine degreaser (the foaming kind) and work the entire thing with a plastic small arms cleaning brush (think of a stiff tooth brush), paying particular attention to the red areas. When most of the junk is removed I switch to #0000 steel wool and mineral spirits. I wipe it dry and dunk it in mineral oil. It stays there from 1-3 complete days, depending on how patient I am. This goes for wood, horn, antler, stag, bone...anything but metal. (My one metal-handled khukuri is not particularly comfortable but it is easy to maintain.)
After the mineral oil soak, I clamp the blade in my vise (with the handle lower than the blade) and suspend it over my bucket of mineral oil. I let it sit for a few hours and wipe off whatever's left. It sits for a few days after that to "dry." It doesn't actually dry, but what's left near the surface seems to migrate inwards. When it's completely dry to the touch I proceed.
If the handle is wood, I go on to the "Walosi mix" as described by Dan Koster. I initially lay a heavy coat on; I lay another coat on again, especially in any dry spots, a half hour later or so. I let it soak for an hour or two and wipe off the residue. I'll do this once or twice. After that, it dries a day.
If the handle is horn, antler, stag or bone, I skip the Walosi mix.
Next, each handle gets hit with Watco Danish Oil. Again, it gets a heavy coat initially and sits for a few hours. I apply the oil with the blade partially in the scabbard to give me something to hold on to; I leave it sitting like this on a horizontal surface to keep the oil from running into the scabbard. (I could care less about it getting in the scabbard but it's a PITA to remove from the bolster and blade when it's dry.) I let it sit for a few hours, wipe it dry, and repeat the next day. Occasionally I'll wet sand with the Watco using #600 or #800 sandpaper. Later coats are lighter, but each is wiped completely dry after soaking for a bit. I do this three or four times. (Always at least four for horn, stag, antler, or bone.)
Finally, if I think that the handle warrants it, I'll build a coat of Tru Oil on it for that "looking through glass" effect. Light coat of Tru Oil, wet sand with #800 and water after it's dry, repeat. I go until I'm happy.
Now, here's my reasoning on all this: the mineral oil (as Dan says) is great because it's very inexpensive, doesn't go rancid, and most importantly to me, it doesn't dry. It also seems to penetrate well. I leave a bucket of it sitting next to my vise, uncovered, and handles can go in and out at my conveniance. The oil will always be fine. Any excess will run out instead of getting gummy and it fills the gaps between the bolster, handle, tang, and buttcap without making a mess.
The Walosi mix penetrates very well and isn't bothered by the mineral oil - whether it simply goes through it or takes it with it is not evident to me, but it gets in there and works. It gives some depth to the finish.
The Watco doesn't seem to go in so far but it's easy to find, relatively inexpensive, and doesn't gum up if you wipe it dry. (The Walosi mix gums up on occasion if I stop there. Walosi probably would've just sanded through it and kept going, but I lack the patience.) It also seals the handle very effectively and is easy to touch up.
The Tru Oil is just for looks. I'm not impressed with its durability and it can be slick when wet. I often skip this step but man, it looks good when done right.
Besides sealing the handle and bringing out the figure, I'm also looking for chatoyance (sp?) - I want the handle to appear transluscent, where I can look "through" it and see what's underneath. Chandan in particular reveals much when treated this way but even dead black horn can give up some details when it's soaked with enough oil.
I'm still experimenting with wipe-on poly and finishing wax. I'm not sold on either yet. (Although the finishing wax looks pretty good and is very durable in my experience.)
Pics available upon request. I'm in the process of finishing (and refinishing) a bunch of handles in preparation for winter, so I've got a variety of handle materials in various stages of completion sitting around right now.
If you have a method that works well for you, please, by all means share it. My way is not the right way - it's just my way.
When I first came here I could refurb a milsurp stock to as-new condition without much trouble...once you know the way it's supposed to be done it's actually very easy. It's not necessarily the most attractive way to do things though and, by and large, my handles looked like crap. I'm fortunate in that we have some very skilled woodchucks here who were willing to help me out.
We (as a forum) have improved our techniques for finishing handles in the little time that I've been here. We have some new members who may or may not be inclined to wade through all of the material from the past. (Some of which is obsolete.) There are some real woodworking experts here. With all this in mind, I ask that we offer up our collective wisdom and trade some notes, all in one place. It's about time, don't you think?
I'll start it off.
Upon receipt, every handle gets cleaned. I spray it down with engine degreaser (the foaming kind) and work the entire thing with a plastic small arms cleaning brush (think of a stiff tooth brush), paying particular attention to the red areas. When most of the junk is removed I switch to #0000 steel wool and mineral spirits. I wipe it dry and dunk it in mineral oil. It stays there from 1-3 complete days, depending on how patient I am. This goes for wood, horn, antler, stag, bone...anything but metal. (My one metal-handled khukuri is not particularly comfortable but it is easy to maintain.)
After the mineral oil soak, I clamp the blade in my vise (with the handle lower than the blade) and suspend it over my bucket of mineral oil. I let it sit for a few hours and wipe off whatever's left. It sits for a few days after that to "dry." It doesn't actually dry, but what's left near the surface seems to migrate inwards. When it's completely dry to the touch I proceed.
If the handle is wood, I go on to the "Walosi mix" as described by Dan Koster. I initially lay a heavy coat on; I lay another coat on again, especially in any dry spots, a half hour later or so. I let it soak for an hour or two and wipe off the residue. I'll do this once or twice. After that, it dries a day.
If the handle is horn, antler, stag or bone, I skip the Walosi mix.
Next, each handle gets hit with Watco Danish Oil. Again, it gets a heavy coat initially and sits for a few hours. I apply the oil with the blade partially in the scabbard to give me something to hold on to; I leave it sitting like this on a horizontal surface to keep the oil from running into the scabbard. (I could care less about it getting in the scabbard but it's a PITA to remove from the bolster and blade when it's dry.) I let it sit for a few hours, wipe it dry, and repeat the next day. Occasionally I'll wet sand with the Watco using #600 or #800 sandpaper. Later coats are lighter, but each is wiped completely dry after soaking for a bit. I do this three or four times. (Always at least four for horn, stag, antler, or bone.)
Finally, if I think that the handle warrants it, I'll build a coat of Tru Oil on it for that "looking through glass" effect. Light coat of Tru Oil, wet sand with #800 and water after it's dry, repeat. I go until I'm happy.
Now, here's my reasoning on all this: the mineral oil (as Dan says) is great because it's very inexpensive, doesn't go rancid, and most importantly to me, it doesn't dry. It also seems to penetrate well. I leave a bucket of it sitting next to my vise, uncovered, and handles can go in and out at my conveniance. The oil will always be fine. Any excess will run out instead of getting gummy and it fills the gaps between the bolster, handle, tang, and buttcap without making a mess.
The Walosi mix penetrates very well and isn't bothered by the mineral oil - whether it simply goes through it or takes it with it is not evident to me, but it gets in there and works. It gives some depth to the finish.
The Watco doesn't seem to go in so far but it's easy to find, relatively inexpensive, and doesn't gum up if you wipe it dry. (The Walosi mix gums up on occasion if I stop there. Walosi probably would've just sanded through it and kept going, but I lack the patience.) It also seals the handle very effectively and is easy to touch up.
The Tru Oil is just for looks. I'm not impressed with its durability and it can be slick when wet. I often skip this step but man, it looks good when done right.
Besides sealing the handle and bringing out the figure, I'm also looking for chatoyance (sp?) - I want the handle to appear transluscent, where I can look "through" it and see what's underneath. Chandan in particular reveals much when treated this way but even dead black horn can give up some details when it's soaked with enough oil.
I'm still experimenting with wipe-on poly and finishing wax. I'm not sold on either yet. (Although the finishing wax looks pretty good and is very durable in my experience.)
Pics available upon request. I'm in the process of finishing (and refinishing) a bunch of handles in preparation for winter, so I've got a variety of handle materials in various stages of completion sitting around right now.
If you have a method that works well for you, please, by all means share it. My way is not the right way - it's just my way.
Or I could quit my day job and trans-ship everybody's khukuris.
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