Handles-Color/Protection/Etc

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Sep 24, 2010
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So there has been a lot of talk on here about handles, with grain orientation and such.

I was wondering what everyone uses for the handles as far as a coating, stain, protection, etc?

I got some linseed oil, raw, and have used that on a couple handles. It is ok.

I have also stained handles, which usually works well.

I did by mistake use WD40 on a handle, and it turned out really well. Good dark color, grain came out nice. Simple mistake, but seemed to work well.

Old used motor oil works ok, the dirtier the better for color. If you have a "whiter" handle to start with it works better.

I dont like to use polyurethane, it is too shiny for me.

Best handle so far I actually got from the head of the handle that would of been in the head of the axe - it was coated with almost like a pine tar/creosit black residue. I was wiping and got it on the handle, and when I spread it out, it turned out really nice. Any idea what that substance was? It was on an old 4 lb sb Kelly Works Flint Edge, or should I say "in".

So I was just wondering what everyone else liked, used, success, fail, etc.

Thanks for the time.
 
I dye all my hafts with Feibings leather dye to match the sheaths I make. I usually do a couple of thin coats of linseed over the dye and use fine steel wool to take the shine off.

Best regards

Robin

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I've only ever used boiled linseed oil, and I've had good results. I've been curious about others methods and may try something else in the future, especially for getting a darker color.
 
I dye all my hafts with Feibings leather dye to match the sheaths I make. I usually do a couple of thin coats of linseed over the dye and use fine steel wool to take the shine off.

Best regards

Robin

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I do the same as Robin. I will also burn patterns in the handle with a torch. Sometimes I will use Kramers antique wood refinisher.
 
Multiple coats of Birchwood Casey Tru-oil, allowed to dry for 24 hours between each and lightly sanded with 0000 steel wool before each new coat, applied when the axe is new.

Tru-oil is a linseed oil thinned with mineral spirits.
 
Boiled Linseed oil.

The WD-40 worked because it's mostly just mineral oil with a few other additives.
I don't bother staining my handles.
 
A few things: AS I understand it boiled linseed oil dries better without being tacky.

#2 WD-40 is a secret formula, but does evaporate pretty well. It attracts dust and leaves stains though. Good for getting an aged look, I've never seen anything to think it would harm wood with occasional use

#3 If you check out old tools I think you will find motor oil over time seems to cause some harm to wood. Not extreme, but check out old tools and see if there is anything to that. Also, check old guns where oil from the action seeps through to the wood.

#4 Poly Urethane etc completely seals the wood and causes blusters with extended use. I think the thing with linseed oil is that it is not a seal, therefor the handle can absorb some moisture from your hands, more in vapor form then liquid I think, but acts as slight ventilation for the contact surface with your skin.

#5 I put Teak wood oil on some wood handles. a few light coats rubbed clean after 5 minutes left an untreated look. on one I then added a heavy coat and left it. It took a long time to get over the tacky state, but now looks and feels varnished. it doesn't get used much, so I don't know what the future will bring to that finish.
 
Boiled linseed oil for fifteen minutes, wipe down, then beeswax and buff.
Repeat every couple months.
 
Boiled Linseed oil.

The WD-40 worked because it's mostly just mineral oil with a few other additives.
I don't bother staining my handles.


The "secret" ingredient in WD-40 is fish oil, which is very similar to Linseed oil (Flax oil). Thats what a salesman for WD-40 told me one time anyway.
 
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