Handling OA

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Protactical

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Aug 24, 2003
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I'm thinking of adding an OA torch to the shop. I'm comfortable with the use issues, but am wondering whether there are any special concerns about storing two tanks of explosive gas in a residential area. I have a detatched shop, and use is likely to be occasional at best. Are there problems relative to freezing etc.. if I stored the tanks in the garden shed. Anything I might not be thinking of as I consider this purchase?
 
Protactical said:
I'm thinking of adding an OA torch to the shop. I'm comfortable with the use issues, but am wondering whether there are any special concerns about storing two tanks of explosive gas in a residential area. I have a detatched shop, and use is likely to be occasional at best. Are there problems relative to freezing etc.. if I stored the tanks in the garden shed. Anything I might not be thinking of as I consider this purchase?
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the Oxygen tank is more of an explosive than the oxygen is , oxygen is only an accelerant,
it will just make the place burn down faster if it leaks during a fire..:eek:
:)
the tanks are pretty safe , just don't brake the valves off the tanks, I've been using them both for well over 30 years with no miss-haps.. just watch for fires a while after using them..
 
Thanks Don. My local supplier now supplies the tanks with a crown on them that prottects the valves at all times, which seems like an additional protective measure along with securing them properly at all times.

I was thinking that ther would be months when I wouldn't use them at all and storing them at the bottom of the garden would be attractive compared to in the shop which is 6 feet from my house and the neighbours house. But it gets freezing cold here which might affect the valves. Not sure.
 
Protactical said:
Thanks Don. My local supplier now supplies the tanks with a crown on them that prottects the valves at all times, which seems like an additional protective measure along with securing them properly at all times.


I was thinking that ther would be months when I wouldn't use them at all and storing them at the bottom of the garden would be attractive compared to in the shop which is 6 feet from my house and the neighbours house. But it gets freezing cold here which might affect the valves. Not sure.
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OK who's this dOn guy :D
keep the valves dry and the oxygen valve dry and oil free and they will be ok.. an interesting note though,
when it gets cold watch the press gauge on the
acetylene drop as it gets colder at around -40 you'll have about zero press..
it's works like propane..:)
 
Make sure you chain the tanks to the wall ,or if portable , chained to a proper cart. I remember a description of a tank that [uncapped] fell off a loading dock and snapped off the valve. It was then an instant missile that went through a few cementblock walls !!! In a vehicle they must be capped and secured. Make sure you don't exceed the 14 lb limit on the acetylene. Make sure you have a good fire extinguisher . Take care of the hose to prevent wear, cutting or burning through !
 
I am with mete on chaining them to the wall. Also use an oil free wrench while tightening the fittings on the tanks. Getting a long hose it helpfull also so you don't have to move the tanks to the job all the time.
 
Let me show my lack of knowledge on Oxy-Acetylene. Why so important to avoid oil around the tanks?
I use small containers of Mapp or propane or jeweler's micro butane torches for anything I need to heat...which is pretty much to heat color Timascus and titanium sometimes....
Thanks,
 
Just a small amount of oil or grease with the presence of pure oxygen will blow pretty hard.The friction of the oxygen if it leaks will even make it blow.
 
John R. Fraps said:
Why so important to avoid oil around the tanks?
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Here is a basic "Fire Triangle". It takes all three to have a fire (or explosion). Remove any one of the three requirements, and you won't have a fire.

As GlennM said, oxygen escaping via a leak (under high pressure up to around 2200 psi can cause heat). With heat (escaping oxygen through a small orfice), oxygen(from the tank), and fuel (Oil), you could have a mess on your hands.

Always open an oxygen valve "ALL-THE-WAY". It is a two way valve. This helps with any leaks via the valve itself.

On the Acetylene side.......... Only open the acetylene valve about 1/4 to 1/3 turn. This allows all the volume you will need, and in case of a fire (as in a burned or cut hose), you can quickly turn it off. Also remember that acetylene becomes highly unstable at pressure exceeding 15 psi in its free state (after it leaves the tank).

I recommend anyone working with O/A bone up on their safety prior to just "jumping in" and learning the hard way.
371590_fire_triangle.gif
 
there is a few differant things that can happen
pure oxygen with a flammable can cause spontaneous combustion in the right conditions and..
you don't want that oil in your gauges and oxygen lines
glen's right too,
ever tryed holding back air from a reg air compressor. it will get hot fast if you let a little air escape say at even 50 psi and then think about over 1000 psi..

if the oil ignites inside somewhere and conditions are right..
oxygen, fuel, heat, ( compression < boom factor) think about a cly in a gas engine, you have controlled explosions going off each time a cly fires.. think of the power, this from compression, if to low a compression you just have a poof and this with just air..
, if this happens in an oxygen line what's stopping it from blowing up..not the rubber line..there's more too it but that the jest of it..

you don't have to worry about this on the acetylene side, in the winter the gas companies routinely put oil in the upper part of the valve to keep water from freezing in them( acetylene tank valve) .. the oxygen tank has a cap to help protect the valve from braking if pounded some how and it's a horizonal inlet to keep water out until you hook the gauges and valves up..

I keep mine in a cart, and yes chained in....:) a little knowledge and common sense go a long way..
 
O/2 (excellent oxidizer) + OIL (mostly H and C) + any spark or heat = EXPLOSION.The "USE NO OIL" on oxygen gauges is no joke.

If you want to make a great event starter cannon:
Take a 3" shell casing (surplus store) and tap the primer hole for 14-1.25mm (or any other spark plug tap,like 5/8-18, you want) put in a spark plug.Make a sturdy mount for the shell (mine looked like a old shipboard canon,made from 4X4s),and bolt the shell to it firmly. Rig up an ignition coil with a push button and hook the HV and ground wires to the plug.The push button should have a LONG cord - about 20 feet.Put in TWO drops of gasoline (ONLY TWO) and squirt in a good blast of oxygen from a small tank.Put a piece of Saran wrap over the mouth with a rubber band. Allow the fuel to evaporate for a minute,and hit the switch (you should be at the full extension of the cord when you do this).It will sound like a 50mm going off. AT NO POINT SHOULD YOU STAND IN FRONT OF THIS DEVICE!
CAVEAT:This information is for information only.No one should try this unless completely familiar with all processes and technical fields of this project.This is not a toy "Big - Bang" canon.Wear ear protection,too.
Stacy
 
For years and years before somebody got smart and came up with those dam cumbersome check valves (safety valves) Ive chased the fire down the hose to the tank a few times.Running 4" diameter rosebuds on the bridge yard you didnt want to ever bump the torch into anything (fall asleep on the job) and snuff the torch out.It most of the times would back fire and blister your hands good and wake you up rather abruptly.
 
GlennM said:
For years and years before somebody got smart and came up with those dam cumbersome check valves (safety valves) Ive chased the fire down the hose to the tank a few times.Running 4" diameter rosebuds on the bridge yard you didnt want to ever bump the torch into anything (fall asleep on the job) and snuff the torch out.It most of the times would back fire and blister your hands good and wake you up rather abruptly.
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haha Glenn
I remember back in the 70's on board ship, the ht shop would be using
the O/A , the hose was strung all the way down from the fan-tail to the H/T shop, once in a great while you'd hear a big bang some where out there:D
yes that was a good idea they added,,, you don't need the two gasses mixing in the hoses for sure...:eek:
 
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