Hey you all from NC. I'm new to the forum but have been reading it for quite a while. Started posting in " No unnecessary weight Poll" Thread, and moved to my own here. Basically reposting in hopes of getting some feedback to help me move forward. So I'm wondering if I should scrap both of them (they're spalted) the hickory tree had been out since the spring in an 8' length only this part of the tree was spalted and the wood doesn't feel too soft. I was thinking of trying to stabilize it with ground copper and oil (BLO or Walnut and Carnauba wax). The 15" handle for the broad hatchet may be too small and should be longer. But they r so pretty and feel so good I hate to scrap them before trying them out. Since these are my first homemade hafts, I will accept failure graciously. So I'm thinking kep going and if they get mucked up, I'll just start over again when I have the chance.
I'm gearing up to finish a couple of spalted hickory axe haft's I started carving last weekend. I split the 8' x 4" D tree with a chainsaw and hewed it down past the core to make 2 handles so far. A friend of mine who is into Axes and woodwork and Greenwood work laid it out the longitudnial cut for me. He said the tree was a little small but it would do. He suggested making the whipped base of the log be for my new/old poorly hung R handed broad axe. He also said you will get used to any handle, for what that's worth.
I'm hanging an old plumb hatchet. The Plumb weighs about 2 lb. I think. Cutting edge 3 3/4", the length is 5 3/4", and 2 3/4" poll. I'm guessing 2 lb. with the balance point 3 1/2" from the tip right through the front 1/8" of the eye. I was thinking of hanging it long for a pack axe/to carry in my truck and canoe mostly for bush work. I hewed out a handle that'll be 19-20" straight and thin (7/8" x 1 1/2" unfinished), there's enough stock to do a fawns foot. Is that a good idea on a straight haft?
R handed broad axe 6 1/4" long with 5 1/8" straight blade length, 2 1/4" poll, about the same weight as the plumb maybe a bit heavier. The balance point with a thin s-curved handle is 3 1/4"s from the cutting edge when I balance the side of the blade on a piece of metal. When I hang it with a plumb line from it's current s-curved handle its (the CoG) is closer to the eye. At this point I use it mostly like a carving axe for hewing out these handles/newly sharpened it slices and dices quite nicely with one hand, but it feels really heavy in the front, but doesn't wabble after striking.
Unfortunately I made the bent on a bit on the short side looks like only 14", with a half to 3/8" bow (laterally). This one is also stockier than the other one roughed out in the middle 1 X 1 3/16".
Just thought I'd bounce it off you guys till I have time to talk to Roy Underhill about how to proceed.
If you want to see some pics you can check out my instagram page.
https://www.instagram.com/carabnr/
I'm gearing up to finish a couple of spalted hickory axe haft's I started carving last weekend. I split the 8' x 4" D tree with a chainsaw and hewed it down past the core to make 2 handles so far. A friend of mine who is into Axes and woodwork and Greenwood work laid it out the longitudnial cut for me. He said the tree was a little small but it would do. He suggested making the whipped base of the log be for my new/old poorly hung R handed broad axe. He also said you will get used to any handle, for what that's worth.
I'm hanging an old plumb hatchet. The Plumb weighs about 2 lb. I think. Cutting edge 3 3/4", the length is 5 3/4", and 2 3/4" poll. I'm guessing 2 lb. with the balance point 3 1/2" from the tip right through the front 1/8" of the eye. I was thinking of hanging it long for a pack axe/to carry in my truck and canoe mostly for bush work. I hewed out a handle that'll be 19-20" straight and thin (7/8" x 1 1/2" unfinished), there's enough stock to do a fawns foot. Is that a good idea on a straight haft?
R handed broad axe 6 1/4" long with 5 1/8" straight blade length, 2 1/4" poll, about the same weight as the plumb maybe a bit heavier. The balance point with a thin s-curved handle is 3 1/4"s from the cutting edge when I balance the side of the blade on a piece of metal. When I hang it with a plumb line from it's current s-curved handle its (the CoG) is closer to the eye. At this point I use it mostly like a carving axe for hewing out these handles/newly sharpened it slices and dices quite nicely with one hand, but it feels really heavy in the front, but doesn't wabble after striking.
Unfortunately I made the bent on a bit on the short side looks like only 14", with a half to 3/8" bow (laterally). This one is also stockier than the other one roughed out in the middle 1 X 1 3/16".
Just thought I'd bounce it off you guys till I have time to talk to Roy Underhill about how to proceed.
If you want to see some pics you can check out my instagram page.
https://www.instagram.com/carabnr/
