Handrubbed Satin finish advice needed

Hankins

Hankins

Joined
Dec 7, 2008
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There are so many ways to do a good Handrubbed satin finish...
Two Questions: What is the best way to keep a sharp grind line?
What is the best backing for the sandpaper "or" should stones be used?
OK so three questions If stones are the answer; Which ones?
 
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The answer to your first question....If you are talking about the plunge lines(where the blade meets the riccasso) A file and a file guide will take you a long way...also lots of practice.
As for your second question...back the abrasive with something hard...some people use steel....some use wood...etc. I use a combo of wood and some micarta for my sanding blacks
Hope that helps some...
Mace

P.S. Remember to change directions when you change grits.
Good luck!
 
I usually use a piece of small square stock to do my finishes. I also found a trick from a member here (I believe it was Frank Niro) and use Mobil 1 when I get to the stage I'm going to start doing my hand rubbing. This one was done with the Mobil 1 and taken to 800 grit.

knife038.jpg
 
The best way to keep a sharp grind line is to first off start with a sharp grind line. If you can't feel the grind line after you ground the blade your going to wash it out when you hand rub it. I think stones are a waste of money. Tried them years ago and ended up making myself more work than what they were worth. I find a square stick with 4 equal flat sides works the best for me. Also for a good hand rub its best to start with a blade that is ground really good. Spend some time looking at the blade after you use a finer belt. If your seeing deep scratches go back and remove them before you start hand rubbing. I'll normally start hand rubbing with 220 grit with just about any type of oil, I prefer using some form of cooking oil or a mineral oil and leave the petrol base oils alone cause they give me a headache. After the 220 I'll go to 320 with more oil. After the 320 I'll do a quick etch and then a quick rub with 320 and water. If there's any scratches they will stand out better. Once all the scratches are gone I'll jump to 600 to 1500 to 2000. All the finer grits are done with just water.

IMG_2447.JPG
 
"Mobil 1" means nothing, unless you specify the viscosity.
In my experience, oil purpose is to keep the sandpaper unclogged. Thin oil works much better than thick oil, and IMHO no motor oil is thin enough.
I got very good finishes with WD-40 like oils.
 
I really wish I could watch Frank do his finish with Mobil 1 because I have tried it on several blades and just cannot get it to work for me.

I have tried many, many things over the years... and after some recent email exchanges with "Mr. Clean" Russ Andrews, I gave the old standby, WD-40, a new shot at life.... and I'm very pleased with it.

I think I went to all the fancy alternatives over the years because I thought WD-40 was too simple, it needed to be something fancy and exotic. :rolleyes: lol :)


I was like my buddy Ray regarding stones (bought orange EDM from MSC years ago and immediately HATED them).... However, I recently bought some from Moldshoptools.com and have been really happy with using them on clips (read long, lean bowie/fighter clips). I haven't given them much time on main bevels yet.....

My sanding sticks are pretty beefy... They used to be very dainty. Now they are big, and shaped so that they're comfortable and I stick sandpaper to them that has first been cut into strips, and then sprayed with tack glue. (you have to let it set for a few minutes or it will just smear right off the sanding stick!!!!).
 
I will try WD-40 very soon. It may be better for my use than the Mobile one. The Mobile 1 I use is 5-30 weight. It works very well on carbon steel Damascus and also on 154-CM.
I use micarta shaped blocks or flat pieces as backing . Most of my blades are hollow ground. They are not small and seem to allow me to have more control. I also feel the same as Raymond Richard that you must start off with good grinds to maintain them. Damascus it bad in that as soon as you go to an etch , and I like a deep one, you are starting to eat away at the fine lines you worked to get. This has worked well for me but I always like to find something better, so I try things as I go along.In the end it comes down to whatever works best for you. Frank
 
That's right I did say that Fletch but perhaps I placed too much faith in other people's statements. I am using 5-30 weight Mobil1 at this time. Today I used it and some WD-40
It sure seeme4d the Mobil 1 allowed the 400 grit I was using to cut more agressively and do the job quicker. I also tried these with 600 grit and got the same results. This was on some carbon mosaic Damascus . I definitely will stay with the Mobil 1 since I believe it will do a better job of the two on finer grits as well as I earlier believed was so. My results with Windex was very poor. Frank
 
Raymond,
What do you mean by doing a "quick etch" after sanding with the 220? Do you mean a quick bath in some distilled vinegar? I've been trying to perfect my hand sanding, but haven't heard of doing an etch partway through. What is it?

Thanks!

Raymond Richard said:
The best way to keep a sharp grind line is to first off start with a sharp grind line. If you can't feel the grind line after you ground the blade your going to wash it out when you hand rub it. I think stones are a waste of money. Tried them years ago and ended up making myself more work than what they were worth. I find a square stick with 4 equal flat sides works the best for me. Also for a good hand rub its best to start with a blade that is ground really good. Spend some time looking at the blade after you use a finer belt. If your seeing deep scratches go back and remove them before you start hand rubbing. I'll normally start hand rubbing with 220 grit with just about any type of oil, I prefer using some form of cooking oil or a mineral oil and leave the petrol base oils alone cause they give me a headache. After the 220 I'll go to 320 with more oil. After the 320 I'll do a quick etch and then a quick rub with 320 and water. If there's any scratches they will stand out better. Once all the scratches are gone I'll jump to 600 to 1500 to 2000. All the finer grits are done with just water.

IMG_2447.JPG
Click to expand...
 
jm44, I use fc and water for an etch. I'll etch for about 30 seconds and rinse the blade off and then start hand rubbing with 320. If there's any deep scratches I missed the etching will darken the scratches and make them easier to spot.
 
Raymond Richard said:
jm44, I use fc and water for an etch. I'll etch for about 30 seconds and rinse the blade off and then start hand rubbing with 320. If there's any deep scratches I missed the etching will darken the scratches and make them easier to spot.
Click to expand...

Very good to know. Thanks for the tip:thumbup:
 
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