Hapstone RS...Stone Selection?

Pacer.2

Pacer.2

Joined
Jan 1, 2023
Messages
9
I've been pouring over forums and websites...decided on the Hapstone RS (build quality, small foot print, seems simple, solid, and elegant). I have a small EDC collection of a couple Chris Reeve Knives and a couple Benchmade...all S30V or above. Also a full Henkel's Four Star kitchen knife set & 8 steak knives. If all goes well, I'll probably be sharpening several friends knives too.

I like a little toothy feel, but a slightly polished appearance (dressed up a bit). For example, I sent my Benchmade 940 to ApostleP a few years ago and it came back perfect...a bit too perfect with a slippery slice. I didn't get feedback.

I'm pretty set on the Hapstone Premium CBN stones (low maintenance, quick cutting, durable, a bit edgy). I was almost tempted to just buy the 6 piece set, but wondered if I needed all 6 and the price/stone in the set is actually higher than buying individual stones...odd pricing model. Set for 6 is $455, but each stone separately is $65. $65x6=$390; again, I'd prefer fewer stones anyway.

Here's what I'm considering purchasing...to cover reprofiling/repair up to toothy sharp with the ability to polish/dress up appearance.

Hapstone Premium CBN Stones (JIS Grit):
CBN 80 (160 micron)
CBN 150 (80 micron)
CBN 400 (40 micron)
CBN 800 (20 micron)...seems about right for the kitchen knives
CBN 1500 (10 micron)...for light polishing kitchen knives and setting the EDC knives
Strop w/ Gunny Juice, 1 micron

Does anyone have an opinion on deleting or adding a stone or 2? Could I delete the CBN 400? Should I swap the 1500 for a 2000 and add a 4000 to get to 3 micron? Your opinions and insight is much appreciated by this novice that wants to learn and dive into maintaining my own edges!
 
What you have listed looks reasonable to me. But I don't think I would buy both the 80 and 150. I suggest on or the other probably the 150. Or I would split the difference, and go with the 120. I wouldn't delete the 400. You need one in that range to clean up after the course reprofiling stone. There is no need to go finer, unless you want to get a mirror polish. Gritomatc recommends 120, 400, 1000,and 4000. The 4000 should start getting you into mirror polish range. If you want to spend a little less maybe try a three stone set of 150, 600, and 1500.

O.B.
 
My impression of the Hapstone Premium CBN Stones is that they do not cut as fast as the Poltava CBNs, non-premium Hapstone CBNs, or TSProf diamonds, although I do not have the luxury of multiple identical blades for rigorous testing.

If you expect to do major reprofiling, like from 30 degrees to 20 degrees, I would suggest the 50 grit instead of the 80, or perhaps a Poltava instead.

If you would not be doing anything more drastic than 23 to 20 degrees, the 80 grit would be acceptable.
 
AS and OB,
Thanks you very much for your thoughts. You both helped nudge me in the direction I wanted to go...less is more! I really want to get the highest quality system that will address 95% of my needs...not a bunch of stones I rarely touch. The Hapstone RS is high quality, customizable if needed, and a small footprint for storage. Your advice on stones is where I need expert advice that I don't have yet. Based on your feedback, I've adjusted to just 3 stones. I'm happy to pay for the highest quality, and I was impressed with what I read about Poltava (thanks AS); and, I'm now convinced I don't need an 80 grit JIS stone because I only expect minor reprofiling/repairs (thanks OB). I really don't want a coarse or superfine stone that I probably won't ever use. I actually like a toothy durable edge with a little polish..kind of like a lightly polished, grippy factory edge..bites into a tomato with ease.

With all that said, does this adjustment make sense?

Poltava Premium Stones:
Metallic CBN 120 (110 micron)--minor reprofiling/repairs
Metallic CBN 400 (40 micron)--dress up remains of 120/final sharpening
Metallic CBN 1000 (16 micron)--mostly polishing/fine tune

Do you recommend a fourth stone? That said, I'm perfectly happy with three. I want to get this right. Is Poltava the bees knees? Is there something better out there...I want to get this right the first time. PS, I already have an 8" strop block with 1 micron compound.
 
Pacer.2 said:
I really want to get the highest quality system that will address 95% of my needs...not a bunch of stones I rarely touch. .. I really don't want a coarse or superfine stone that I probably won't ever use. I actually like a toothy durable edge with a little polish..kind of like a lightly polished, grippy factory edge..bites into a tomato with ease.

With all that said, does this adjustment make sense?

Poltava Premium Stones:
Metallic CBN 120 (110 micron)--minor reprofiling/repairs
Metallic CBN 400 (40 micron)--dress up remains of 120/final sharpening
Metallic CBN 1000 (16 micron)--mostly polishing/fine tune

Do you recommend a fourth stone? That said, I'm perfectly happy with three. I want to get this right. Is Poltava the bees knees? Is there something better out there...I want to get this right the first time. PS, I already have an 8" strop block with 1 micron compound.
Click to expand...

I think that is an excellent choice of stones to cover 95% of normal sharpening, excluding extreme reprofiling and mirror polishing. Even so, you can certainly do a lot of reprofiling with the Poltava 120, and you could use a few strops with various diamond compounds for mirror polishing, should the need arise.
 
It looks like a good set to me. Us them for awhile. From what you describe, I think they will do what you want. If not you can add more stones later as needed.

O.B.
 
Pacer.2 said:
Do you recommend a fourth stone?
Click to expand...
Pardon me for jumping in. I recommend a "tape blank" as your fourth stone. This can be used with lapping and microfinishing film, or improvised substrates and strops like "Post-it Labeling & Cover-Up Tape."
 
Brilliant! Many thanks for the “tape blank.” I had no idea this solution existed. I saw a couple videos and a few supply sources. I much prefer this over a leather strop with Gunny Juice.

Two questions;
1. If I only wanted 1 “tape blank”, what grit/micron do you recommend given my finest stone will be 1000 grit?
2. Blanks from Hapstone are just $2/each, and I see 3M tapes in 8 different grits down to .3 micron all pretty cheap. Are numerous blanks a necessity? If so, how many? My goal is toothy edge with a bit of polish. I’m not a really bright edge guy.
 
I have not used the Poltava stones, being served acceptably by less expensive options, but I have used the 9 micron 3M diamond microfinishing film and by number it should work well as a next step. Being resin-bonded it should behave more finely than the micron rating alone would imply when compared to metal-bonded diamond, continuing the 110, 40, 16 sequence. From your stated goal I think this will be fine enough to please you. I would get at least a second tape blank if they are that inexpensive just so that you have one to experiment with in addition to your standard sequence. I also like to use a bare leather strop, no compound, as a final step, though realistically that may be more about feel than performance when compared to stropping on paper.
 
Pacer.2 said:
2. Blanks from Hapstone are just $2/each, and I see 3M tapes in 8 different grits down to .3 micron all pretty cheap.
Click to expand...
I think I found the $2 Hapstone blank you are seeing. It is not actually intended for film and may not be as flat and rigid as those that are. GritOMatic has ones that are glass-faced, and Edge Pro has machined aluminum blanks rather than the extruded bar stock used for simple stone mounting. If getting the latter you might as well spend a few dollars extra for the Hard Anodized version IMHO. More economically there is a thicker 5mm blank from GritOMatic that at least would have extra rigidity, though I don't know how flat they are so you might have to lap it.
 
Thank you. Great point regarding the low rigidity of Hapstone's blanks...wrong application for film; GritOMatic's glass faced option looks far superior (rigidity, flat/true) for film applications. Based on your previous comments, I've spent more time reviewing/considering the film/blank options. I'm considering buying 2 GritOMatic blanks and 2 films (30 and 9 micron). I'm curious how well 2 levels of sharpness would work out.
Level 1) Sharpen with 400 grit (40 micron), then 30 micron lapping film to finish/polish
Level 2) Sharpen further with 1000 grit (16 micron), then 9 micron lapping film/polish

I'ver read a few posts that factory edges are usually set with <=400 grit, and I actually enjoy the balance of durability & sharpness they provide. The above scenario seems to provide a couple of exit points for different applications. I'm sure I've way over thought this...looking forward to getting some of this gear in hand and seeing where this rabbit hole takes me!
 
Pacer.2 said:
I'ver read a few posts that factory edges are usually set with <=400 grit, and I actually enjoy the balance of durability & sharpness they provide.
Click to expand...
You may not want anything other than the CBN set you already considered. If you sometimes want a refined edge e.g. for whittling the films are useful, and tape blanks also let you experiment with different polishing compounds without permanently committing leather to it. Unlike loaded leather and cloth you can avoid convexing the edge if you prefer.

If you are regularly finishing to a high refinement and/or do not wish to experiment with compounds something like the Diamond Matrix stones make more sense as in the long run they will be more economical. I don't personally see the point of adding 30 micron film if you will already have the 16 micron CBN stone.

Since you said "all S30V or above" perhaps you should be looking at diamond and other super-hard abrasives rather than basic AlOx or SiC film. I bought my 3M diamond film from Precision Surfaces Internatinal at psidragon.com as it is the only source I know for individual pieces in a convenient 3"x6" size. The site can be a bit hard to navigate and I am not allowed to embed product links, but searching "PSI-3209-3X6-DMFF" and "PSI-1509D-6A" should bring up 9 micron microfinishing film and lapping film respectively.
 
And, is a bare leather strop without compound of any benefit given I'm only getting to a max of 9 micron?
 
Pacer.2 said:
And, is a bare leather strop without compound of any benefit given I'm only getting to a max of 9 micron?
Click to expand...

In my opinion it is. It makes many edges just a bit crisper, and if you use carbon steel you can rub in some chapstick to provide corrosion resistance in the process. But I admit I like the feel of using it and this may bias my perception of the result.
 
Wizard, I'm grateful for your willingness to share your experience and insight. I'm far more prepared and confident as I wade into the sharpening arena. I'll make the adjustment to 3M diamond tape due to high hardness blades (S30V, S90V, S35VN, S45VN)...makes sense...I'll look into the source information you sent. And, I'll probably treat myself to a shell cordovan leather strop for that ritualistic finish & satisfaction. I, too, enjoy the last few drags across a strop.

Here's my system recapped based on advice from Old Biker, Another Shepherd, and Mr Wizard...you guys were a huge help.

Hapstone RS Sharpener, source = Hapstone
Poltava Premium Stones, source = Hapstone
- Metallic CBN 120 (110 micron)--minor reprofiling/repairs
- Metallic CBN 400 (40 micron)--dress up remains of 120 grit/final sharpening
- Metallic CBN 1000 (16 micron)--mostly polishing/fine tune
1"x6" glass blank x2 for lapping (1 for 9 micron lapping; 1 spare), source = GritOMatic
3M Diamond 9 micron lapping film, source = Precision Surfaces International
Shell Cordovan Leather Strop 1"x6", source = Hapstone
6 Stones Storage Case, source = Hapstone
Angle Gauge, 3mm driver, etc, source = Amazon

Albeit a bit bougie, I will not be able blame my tools! Once I get the system up and running, I'll report back with my results and how my expectations met reality and if any adjustments are being made...down that rabbit hole I go.

It's never too late to chime in with thoughts and comments. I hope this thread will help others like so many of the threads helped me. The Bladeforum's community didn't disappoint when I reached out for advice!
 
Pacer.2 said:
I've been pouring over forums and websites...decided on the Hapstone RS (build quality, small foot print, seems simple, solid, and elegant). I have a small EDC collection of a couple Chris Reeve Knives and a couple Benchmade...all S30V or above. Also a full Henkel's Four Star kitchen knife set & 8 steak knives. If all goes well, I'll probably be sharpening several friends knives too.

I like a little toothy feel, but a slightly polished appearance (dressed up a bit). For example, I sent my Benchmade 940 to ApostleP a few years ago and it came back perfect...a bit too perfect with a slippery slice. I didn't get feedback.

I'm pretty set on the Hapstone Premium CBN stones (low maintenance, quick cutting, durable, a bit edgy). I was almost tempted to just buy the 6 piece set, but wondered if I needed all 6 and the price/stone in the set is actually higher than buying individual stones...odd pricing model. Set for 6 is $455, but each stone separately is $65. $65x6=$390; again, I'd prefer fewer stones anyway.

Here's what I'm considering purchasing...to cover reprofiling/repair up to toothy sharp with the ability to polish/dress up appearance.

Hapstone Premium CBN Stones (JIS Grit):
CBN 80 (160 micron)
CBN 150 (80 micron)
CBN 400 (40 micron)
CBN 800 (20 micron)...seems about right for the kitchen knives
CBN 1500 (10 micron)...for light polishing kitchen knives and setting the EDC knives
Strop w/ Gunny Juice, 1 micron

Does anyone have an opinion on deleting or adding a stone or 2? Could I delete the CBN 400? Should I swap the 1500 for a 2000 and add a 4000 to get to 3 micron? Your opinions and insight is much appreciated by this novice that wants to learn and dive into maintaining my own edges!
Click to expand...
Dear Mr. Pacer.2 Pacer.2

It must be a battle of two world titans - the choice of abrasives between Hapstone and PDT(Poltava Diamond Tools).

We can offer our options as to which set to choose in grit, but I can see that your choice is quite logical and correct.

Firstly I would like to apologize for the confusion with the price of the single abrasive and the set, it has been corrected, thank you for your consideration.
Secondly as I said it is a battle of the two abrasives, but if you look at it from the other side, our companies are quite close and the PDT abrasives work just as well as the Premium Hapstone in a way complementary to each other.

The result will always be different, because we sharpen knives of different steels, from different masters.

I work with this set
Hapstone Premium CBN
150(100/80 mkm)
400 (40/28 mkm)
800 (20/14 mkm)
2000 (7/5 mkm)
Super finish
Gunny Juice 6 and 3 microns on Premium Cowhide leather strop.
To me, this is a well balanced set for universal sharpening of almost any knife, but customizing any knife would be a plus.

I wish you courage and fulfillment in all your endeavors.If you need my help, do not hesitate to contact me !
Have a great day !


Regards, Mario.
Hapstone team !
 
Hapstone Official said:
It must be a battle of two world titans - the choice of abrasives between Hapstone and PDT(Poltava Diamond Tools).
Click to expand...

I use both, but I do not have the luxury of multiple identical blades for rigorous comparisons. My impressions are that Poltava stones cut faster and are better for reprofiling, while Hapstone stones are better for mirror polishing and also for listening to music while sharpening because they are quieter. I am still experimenting.
 
Mr.Wizard said:
I have not used the Poltava stones, being served acceptably by less expensive options,
Click to expand...
Would you mind to elaborate a little on that? I’m in the market for an upgrade to what I use now, in an 80 and 120 grit. Which are jende plates (electroplated). They cut well, which I like. Yet, they’re also a bit on the rough side and can gouge a bit. So, cutting metal quick, great. Leaving ravines on the edge, may be not so great 😄. Common sense makes me wonder if fast cutting can be achieved without leaving deep scratches, at least at such low grits, but it sounds like there are better options out there though. I like my EP diamond Matrix stones in 950, 1.7k and 4K, but with anything where I want coarser than 150, I wonder if the EP Matrix would be a lot slower at cutting metal.

Thanks
Hauk
 
huntyukon said:
Would you mind to elaborate a little on that? I’m in the market for an upgrade to what I use now, in an 80 and 120 grit. Which are jende plates (electroplated). They cut well, which I like. Yet, they’re also a bit on the rough side and can gouge a bit. So, cutting metal quick, great. Leaving ravines on the edge, may be not so great 😄. Common sense makes me wonder if fast cutting can be achieved without leaving deep scratches, at least at such low grits, but it sounds like there are better options out there though.
Click to expand...

Don't misunderstand my level of experience. S30V is the highest vanadium steel I've got, and I haven't tried bonded diamond stones as they are expensive. It's been a long time since I tried to do major reprofiling with the Edge Pro as I find Cubitron II sandpaper, the Zandstra FOSS silicon carbide speed skate stone, or a large Bahco hand file to be better places to start, depending on what I am doing. Obviously powered grinding would be better still if I had it.

For the Edge Pro I find the stock #120 (a BORIDE CS-HD I believe) is actually quite fast, if I can put up with the scratchy mud and dishing. When I cannot I use a #140 plated diamond from Chef Knives to Go, but that is now discontinued and I don't know if the replacement is as good. As you have seen unworn electroplated diamond leaves deep scratches, but they are also reputed to be faster than bonded diamond. The biggest knock against plated diamond for shaping as I see it is that the new aggression doesn't last long. If you start using up a lot of them the bonded diamonds make a lot of sense.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top