Harbor Frieght Rant...

[Balin]

Well, I told me so. Yes I did. In exactly so many words.

So, I decided I could slide by using a Harbor Freight tool. Boy am I pissed at me. The whole tool is a POC. I need to re-design and fabricate parts THAT CAME ON THE MACHINE so they will work. Holes do not align, hardware provided simply does not work, and the design sucks rope. Everything is wrong with this POC. I have run it for about 30 minutes, and am SERIOUSLY considering posting a "come and take it, and it is yours free" ad. I will never never never never never never buy from those weasels again Ever ever ever. Well, lesson learned. I will not buy so much as an empty tin can from Harbor Freight. Did I mention that the person that wrote the assembly instructions has never seen the product? Someone described a band saw to them, and they winged it from there. The saw does have one cool feature. Wheels on one end of the stand. The slight inconvenience is that when you get the saw up on the wheels, the center of gravity causes the wheels to move at mach II under the saw, and causes the motor and belt housing to slam into the concrete at mach III. I had destroyed the belt housing before ever turning on the saw. The assembly instructions talk about threading bolts into the tapped holes. No tapped holes for assembly purposes on the entire saw. That's okay. The bolts fit thru the clearance holes that are in place of the tapped holes. Oh, did I mention that the bolts are long enough to reach a tap, but not long enough to pass thru the wall and accept a nut, washer and lock washer? Or even just the nut? Did I mention that the flat head screws for the table top are pan heads? They protrude above the table surface by about .075"! So, moving your stock across this turkey, you need to lift it over the three screws they use to mount the work surface to the saw. The bracket that locks the saw head in vertical position, is totally misaligned with its corresponding pin hole. Now, I need to make a new bracket to keep this piece of junk from closing while I am using it. Aside from those minor wrinkles, I heartily recommend this tool. Any workshop in hell would be proud to own and use it. As a punishment.

Okay. That is the end of my rant. I feel all better now.... Anyone have a decent metal cutting band saw they are happy with? If so, what brand & model?

Prudence comes at a high price.
Balin

 

[nc_cooter]

I have a HF 4x6 band saw and, for the money, I think it's a very good saw. Before buying the saw, I did a lot of research and knew most of the problems others had encountered. There is a lot of info on the web concerning these saws.
I built an angle iron stand and saved the cheapo one that came with it as a source of metal for other projects. It took about 2 hours to align the wheels and the cut. I have been using the saw for over 3 years and only on the second bi metal blade.
All things considered, I am satisfied with the saw.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I'm not getting your drift?
What exactly are you trying to say?
Speak up and tell us how you really feel.

I have a 4X6 and a 7X12 HF saw. Both have their set up quirks, but it didn't take much to figure the problems out (although I still have parts I don't know what they are?).

Were you moving the saw with the arm in the up position? The instructions and simple physics will tell you it will tip over if you lift the other end to roll it in the raised position. Center of gravity is a bitch when there is a couple hundred pounds involved.

It takes some finesse to adjust the wheel alignment to keep the blade from popping on the 4X6. I have never had even the slightest problem with my 7X12.

Throw away the sheet metal table and cut one from 1/8 to 1/4" steel. Weld up a "Z" brace that locks into the vise that goes to the new table. Weld it to the table bottom. This will make the saw rock solid. To remove the table and use the saw as a horizontal, just remove the two flat head screws and unclamp the whole assembly from the vise.

Stacy

 

[SAR]

HF has some of the greatest shit in the world and hands down some of the worst.

But I think the "Green Monster" bandsaw is one of the best buys they have going.

I do have a nice wilton 14" as well and would really like to say what a weak saw it is for the amount paid.

If you want a nice bandsaw and only pay once look at a Roll-in saw only 2,530 bones but they are really worth it and you would get free shipping from enco for spending over 50.00.

I wish thats the route I would have gone instead of the wilton which is just a little better than the HF saw imho.

All the extra bullshit that came with the HF saw I threw in to a box for other needs, no housing, blade cover etc.I did however put a nice ass padded seat for my boney ass

Spencer

 

[Balin]

Were you moving the saw with the arm in the up position? The instructions and simple physics will tell you it will tip over if you lift the other end to roll it in the raised position. Center of gravity is a bitch when there is a couple hundred pounds involved.

No, the arm was in the down position. When the wheels were engaged, the far end of the saw skittled faster 'n a snake towards me, and the arm slammed up (and at this point, into the ground.) So, the next time, locking the arm in the down position, the saw still skittles faster 'n a snake and slams only the motor and belt cover into the ground. The arm is simply web-strapped in place. The web strap is used because the hardware to 'lock' the arm into position needs to be refabricated, as it will not align with the pin holes.

Perhaps I am expecting too much from this tool. I'm just spoiled because all the other tools I have bought, the various parts worked with the tool without being remade or modified. Or without having to resupply the hardware because it did not work with phantom features, like tapped threads that simply don't exist.

 

[sunshadow]

Return it!

seriously. . .

Hopefully you did not pay to have it shipped to you. I have a harbor freight store 5 miles from my house. Their tools are universally s%@t, but when you need something, sometimes they are the only timely solution. I have returned fully 25% of all the equipment I have bought from Harbor freight because it was defective, unspeakably dangerous to operate, crap, etc. they will take anything back without question.
You might have gotten one that was more uselessly crap than usual
I have the Sears version, it's crap, topheavy (I got it because my father tried to move it, it fell and broke a bracket casting and he pitched it. I bought a replacement casting for 14 bucks, and within it's limitations if works . . .poorly, but it does what I need within its limitations)

Good luck. Half of the knifemakers in the country use a variation on this piece of crap, good luck.

-Page

 

[SteelSlaver]

I understand your pain. If a tool is for heavy use everyday to make my living I get top shelf. For light duty stuff I have gotten some " economy equipment" I have a Grizzly mill and lathe. I did get versions way heavier than I figured I needed, not their cheapest. I have 2 Milwaukee Portabands but, I also have a harbor freight like band saw. It works fine horizontally. But vertically it was a POS. The bed sucked so I replaced it as mentioned above only I used counter sunk socked head bolts to secure it. The blade would come off all the time when used vertically, I adjusted it I tightened it and tried all kinds of stuff. Finally cut 2 1/8" thick aluminum disks a bit bigger than the band drive and idler wheels with center holes to fit over the hubs holes and drilled thru the disk and the "spokes" to the rim and bolted the disk on with 1/4" bolts. End of problem. At first the teeth on a new blade would rasp on the disk a bit, but, finally wore disk enough that all is well. I now have cut a lot of steel with that POS. and when I go to it and flip the switch I believe it is going to work and well. But, at one time I hated that machine and almost dumped it. PS I remounted the wheels to LOL

 

[scottickes]

I have a HF metal cutting bandsaw also. I've had it for two years now. It's nothing like the bandsaws that I used to use in the steel mill, but it does what I need it to do. I think for the $$ it was an excellent purchase. Here are photo's of the one I have. Is this the one that you purchased?

 

[bikermikearchery]

What you do is read the instructions for the entertainment value. Then throw them away and figure it out for your self. Love my H.F. saw. for what I paid for it, has earned its keep.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I'm sorry you had so much trouble. HF is the only place I buy the extended warranty. They say they will come and pick up a heavy piece of equipment that has the extended warranty. I live about 5 minutes from HF ,so I have never had a problem with returns.I have had a few HF tools that were junk, but most did their job fine for the price. I would not get a tool that I relied on from them, but for a cheap angle grinder or such to use twice a month, they are a real money saver. As far as the wheels and the balance, I think I see what is going wrong. It is only supposed to be lifted enough to let the back legs clear the floor,then moved. If you lift it by the bottom of the legs like a wheelbarrow, it will flip over.Lift it from the sides of the bed, about two inches, and scoot it where it needs to be.

I agree that the translation from Chinese,and the obvious changes in parts that were not reflected in the instructions, are humorous at best, frustrating often, and very confusing at times. I hardly ever use them beyond looking at the exploded parts diagram.
Stacy

 

[Jack O'Neill]

just a thought . But first , I agree with you Balin had one also and had the same problems plus I could never get it adjusted right to keep the blade from flying off. Finally it burned up.
now the thought , I replaced it with a 14" Milwakee chop saw , what a treat , cuts steel like butter and it was a $100.00 cheaper than a new bandsaw .

 

[Edro20]

I have a HF chop saw (metal abrasive 14") that still runs. Evrey other electrical tool I have bought from HF has died a quick death with light use. I learned your lesson for myself a few years back. I agree with you!!

 

[L6steel]

Balin, you need to take the guts of the saw and do what I did, make a stand up band saw with them!
You're so limited with the horizontal saw and I got sick of using it so I took the working parts off mine and took some 2" square tubing and 3/16" plate and made a regular saw. It worked great for me and still does for my neighbor. It's real simple to do the conversion.
Here's a bad picture of the saw I made. This was when it used 63" blades. After a year or so I put a longer section of 2" tubing on it so it would accept 10 foot blades. It cut a lot more efficient and the blades last for ever!

 

[sunshadow]

Balin, you need to take the guts of the saw and do what I did, make a stand up band saw with them!
You're so limited with the horizontal saw and I got sick of using it so I took the working parts off mine and took some 2" square tubing and 3/16" plate and made a regular saw. It worked great for me and still does for my neighbor. It's real simple to do the conversion.
Here's a bad picture of the saw I made. This was when it used 63" blades. After a year or so I put a longer section of 2" tubing on it so it would accept 10 foot blades. It cut a lot more efficient and the blades last for ever!

That conversion rocks!

I gota make one of those!

-Page

 

[NickWheeler]

A lot of folks say (including here) "it's pretty good for the money."

Well... that can be like saying, "That guy runs pretty quick for only having one leg."

I know money doesn't grow on trees, but that's exactly why I don't care for their stuff very much. I spend $50 there on a crappy tool, and that just puts me $50 further away from the $200 tool that would have done what I wanted and lasted for years.

I have some stuff from there that's served me well... simple stuff like swivel pad vise-grip style C-clamps. The needle nose ones I got from there actually lined up and stayed locked for about 5 jobs before they wouldn't lock and weren't lined up. I got a "disposable" 9" grinder there for $30 that lasted 2 years. Their $2 scissors are my favorite for cutting sandpaper

Most of the tools I've bought there were horrible disappointments.

Balin...I can appreciate your rant