Hard silver solder question

Will52100

Will52100

Joined
Dec 4, 2001
Messages
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Time to get some more silver solder for jumping tang extensions and hard soldering nickle silver together. I found this site and it looks good, but they've got three differant "hard" solders, what do you guys recomend? What would best match nicle silver, be strongest, and not burn a hole in the nickle silver?

http://www.contenti.com/products/soldering/420-821.html

Thanks,
 
I use easy for light repair work,and medium for general joints .Hard is a bit trickier to get to flow right,but makes the strongest joints.Practice on some scrap until you get the hang of silver brazing.You want clean metal joints,just enough heat,and plenty of flux (not the kind for soft solder).
Stacy
 
I actualy can braze, with silver or brass quite well, what I need to know is which solder best matches the color of Nickle silver sheet. A secondary use is for jumping stub tangs. I can't remeber the melting point of brass, but I'd like to keep the heat down. I am out of silver braze, and am trying to find the ideal match to nickles silver.
 
Will,The last Silver Braze I bought was from Rio Grande,I get the Braze meant for sterling silver as it helps to keep the color better for me.Soft to medium works fine for what you want.But if you want to try multiple brazes on a single project you will want some of all three.

Bruce
 
Silvaloy

I use Silvaloy also but if you get it from a local supply house that caters to HVAC contractors, it's about 2/3rds of what Brownell's is charging.

Copperloy is right next to it in versatility.
 
Some of the solders I use are in the 400 degree range. That's what I use for soldering guards to blades. Seems like even the lowest you mention could zap the temper out of a blade
 
Robert,The silver braze is for adding a length of steel to extend a tang out in a hidden tang,or for joining the to halves of a NS sheath or throat and tip sheath parts.The low temp solders work great for guards but wont hold up strength wise for these aplications.You are correct if used for a guard the temper would be messed up badly:D plus you would have a heck of a time cleaning up the joint if you got sloppy at all.
Bruce
 
Thanks Peter, I will check on that. Should be able to find that in Orlando.
 
Thanks guys, I'll check some heating and air places out. I had some at one time that worked great, but matched brass, not silver. Was awsome for stub tanges and pommel nuts.

I tried Rio Grande's website but it would let me navigate and find the stuff. I'll try the easy and medium and see how it matches nickle silver.
 
Sorry, I thought you were trying to match it for strength,not the color.
If you are trying to match the color of nickel silver,you will want hard or extra hard.The lower content silver solders will show as a slightly yellowish line or area.
Stacy
 
Will52100 said:
Thanks guys, I'll check some heating and air places out. I had some at one time that worked great, but matched brass, not silver. Was awsome for stub tanges and pommel nuts.

I tried Rio Grande's website but it would let me navigate and find the stuff. I'll try the easy and medium and see how it matches nickle silver.
Click to expand...

Will
I would think they'd have that stuff on your rig..for repairs here and there..

don't cha-got french been-a-fits thar :D
 
That's something I hadn't though of Dan, but if they got it on the rig it'll be like gold, under lock and key.
 
Will,
As mentioned, Rio Grande is a good source or I use Lathrop's here in Houston as a supplier. I just use it to solder a tang nut on to a pummel or end cap. Strong as Hades! The flux or paste is just a important as the solder.

Dan Farr turned me on to the "hard solder". The only problem is that you need to watch for warping on the buttcap. For the guard, I use the low temp or the Primos JB Weld method which is neat...and fool proof.

Craig
 
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