Hi,
I'm new to knifemaking and to this forum. so I'm sure this will be a stupid question. I want to make a couple of full-tang knives. I'm using flat bar stock obtained from Koval's several years ago. It's 1095 steel, and I'm sure it's annealed as I have been able to grind, file, and otherwise shape it.
Now for the heat treating. I'm using a one-brick forge with a propane bernzomatic. I've been successful at reaching non-magnetic on the blade itself, but on a 9" or 10" knife, I'm having problems reaching non-magnetic over the whole length of the knife, that is, over the blade and tang both. If I try to bring the blade up to temp and then move on to the tang, by the time I move back to the blade, it has cooled too much. If I reheat it and move back to the tang, it has cooled.
I guess my question is whether it's absolutely necessary to harden the tang as well as the blade?
Thanks for any help anyone can give. zurcher
I'm new to knifemaking and to this forum. so I'm sure this will be a stupid question. I want to make a couple of full-tang knives. I'm using flat bar stock obtained from Koval's several years ago. It's 1095 steel, and I'm sure it's annealed as I have been able to grind, file, and otherwise shape it.
Now for the heat treating. I'm using a one-brick forge with a propane bernzomatic. I've been successful at reaching non-magnetic on the blade itself, but on a 9" or 10" knife, I'm having problems reaching non-magnetic over the whole length of the knife, that is, over the blade and tang both. If I try to bring the blade up to temp and then move on to the tang, by the time I move back to the blade, it has cooled too much. If I reheat it and move back to the tang, it has cooled.
I guess my question is whether it's absolutely necessary to harden the tang as well as the blade?
Thanks for any help anyone can give. zurcher