Hardened Knife Pattern Templates

[BradleySmall]

As I have watched more examples and read more I see people using some kind of hardenable steel to make patterns/templates for their knives for repeatability. I can certainly see the argument for doing this, and will consider doing the same. However, is there any benefit to using the same steel that you use for your knife, or is it just as good to use the least expensive, yet still hardenable steel for such things? Like 1070 or 1095 even if you are making your knives from CPM or ATS stuff?

This brings another thought to mind about the spring. I have seen where someone would make the spring, do all the fit and so forth, then bend it prior to HT to give it tension. If you were to make a pattern spring and this was the working method, would you actually bend the pattern spring before HT? This would give the spring with the bend built in? Or would you simply do all the nice fit up and harden it without bending it? This would give a pattern that would make a spring that needs to be bent each time before HT. I guess I am asking if there is some magic to having a spring that fits perfectly and is bent from that position versus a similarly shaped spring that doesn't have the internal tensions that might be formed by bending it? Is that even a thing?

 

[A.McPherson]

I think if I were going to make patterns, is use a non-hardening stainless sheet metal.

It doesn't need to be hardened, you're just using it to outline your profile before you start grinding right?

What you doing want is it to change size from one batch to the next.

Corrosion on the edges would have the possibility of changing things slightly. In my mind it's better to have a pattern not rust than be hard...

 

[BradleySmall]

I am assuming that there is some benefit to being hardened. I think Chris Crawford mentions it in one of his articles/books/videos something... I haven't found it again. I just assumed it was to tolerate the scribe, or maybe it could be attached to something and used in the way a file guide is. IDK, it was one of those pieces of info that when I heard it, I filed it away as something to come back to and further research. But now that I started thinking about it again, I can't find it.

I do see OG's like perhaps in one of Tony Bose's videos grab a chain and it has what looks like hardened carbon steel (well, not sure about hardened or not, more assumption) with all the different shapes for a given knife.

 

[Ken H>]

It all depends on what the pattern is for. Just for kitchen knives, hunting knives, etc I've used aluminum since all you need is a pattern to mark around. For folders I tend to use hardened steel. This allows me to use the pattern to locate holes and drill thru without damage to the pattern. For folder blades I might use a hard (65+ Rc) pattern to clamp the metal to after cutting/grinding it close. Then with the hardened pattern clamped to blade use a file to get exact fit. It will still need "touching up" for final fit but will be close. With 65 Rc not much danger of file cutting the pattern if you're careful.

 

[BradleySmall]

It all depends on what the pattern is for. Just for kitchen knives, hunting knives, etc I've used aluminum since all you need is a pattern to mark around. For folders I tend to use hardened steel. This allows me to use the pattern to locate holes and drill thru without damage to the pattern. For folder blades I might use a hard (65+ Rc) pattern to clamp the metal to after cutting/grinding it close. Then with the hardened pattern clamped to blade use a file to get exact fit. It will still need "touching up" for final fit but will be close. With 65 Rc not much danger of file cutting the pattern if you're careful.

so when you are using a hardened pattern like that, what metal are you using?

 

[Signalprick]

Best thing I did was start making hardened templates out of A2. These are pre-fitted and .005" high at the half stop and .015" high closed. Totally worth the extra time to make them and they will last a lifetime.

 

[Ken H>]

so when you are using a hardened pattern like that, what metal are you using?

Whatever's handy. Since the I tend to like my templates thin that means it's usually AEB-L. High carbon or SS - no real difference between the two for templates.

 

[Tom Lewis]

Maybe 30 years ago I made a template out of mild steel for one of my favorite patterns. I have scribed around it many times and it's still as good as new.
I know Bob Loveless had hardened templates but I don't really see the need for them.
Most of my templates are made of plexiglass and they have held up fine.

 

[Horsewright]

I’ve got paper, wood and mild steel. All work

 

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

I've tried them all...

paper template
make 10 knives from template
all 10 will be subtly different, pick best one for next batches template
make 10 more
keep the best one and repeat from step 2

These days I like to 3d print a profile first to feel it in hand.

 

[Drew Riley]

IMO, the only reason to need a hardened template is if you're using it for a drilling template.

Personally, I'd just make the hole locations just small enough to fit my center punch in, or a specific size of transfer punch, and then mark and drill the blank after I'm done with the template.