Hardened Zone

D

DPris

Joined
Nov 27, 2003
Messages
1,317
Does anybody have the technical capability to post a drawing showing the hardened zone on a typical khukri's edge?
If not, can you describe it?
I'd like to know if it extends down to the notch, and if I can count on the edge just forward of the notch to be an actual usable cutting edge.
DPris.
 
Dpris-- if you do a search for pictures of etched blades, you can see some that show a visible temper line that indicates the hardened region. I don't think it extends back quite to the notch, which is called a cho. However, this doesn't mean that you can't use that portion of the blade, it's just a bit softer. Don't use it for heavy chopping. You can definitely use it as a draw knife, etc. The tip and back portion of the blade are usually a bit softer than the belly.
--Josh
 
Thanks Josh.
I knew the tip was generally not hardened, or as hard, but I wasn't sure about the area just forward of the cho. I wouldn't chop that far back, but I would like it to be a usable edge for barking and/or sharpening marshmallow sticks and so on. Maybe even a draw knife. I'd like to be able to use the khukri as a GP knife, not just a chopper, even though its shape isn't as versatile as a straighter blade.
DPris
 
I'd like to know if it extends down to the notch, and if I can count on the edge just forward of the notch to be an actual usable cutting edge.
Click to expand...

It doesn't and I wouldn't. You can see this very clearly for yourself by lightly running a file down the length of the edge. The file will catch on the tip and the inner part of the curve, while it will probably just skip over the hardened portion. It's also very obvious while sharpening which parts are hardened and which aren't. It's a lot easier to sharpen the tip and curve than it is the sweet spot! This isn't to say that the edge of the inner curve is useless, but it will dull much faster than the sweet spot because it is softer.
 
Originally posted by DPris
...even though its shape isn't as versatile as a straighter blade.
Click to expand...

Well, that depends on how you look at it. Personally, I find it to be more versatile than a straighter blade. As you already mentioned, the back portion of the khukuri makes a great draw knife. It's also great for cutting cord and rope because the curve actually pulls material into the blade as you cut it. In fact, if you wanted to, you could sharpend the various portions of the blade for different tasks-- smooth polish on the belly for edge durability and high performance wood cutting, rougher finish in the back portion of the blade for microserrations that will greatly enhance rope cutting. The more you use a khukuri, the more you begin to appreciate its versatility. When I got my first one, I thought it would be a somewhat awkward but fun toy. Boy, was I wrong. It's so ergonomic and efficient at cutting and chopping that most straight knives seem a bit laughable to me now.
--Josh
 
Roadrunner,
That's what I suspected, thanks.

Josh,
I thought somebody would grab onto that. It was not meant as a criticism of the khukri, it's just that my knife usage outdoors actually involves very little chopping. My KaBar will shave sticks and point them for marshmellows or tent pegs, cut rope, and do a number of other things, and I think I'll still find it a more useful general purpose blade for small close-in work than the bigger recurved khukri. I may change my mind, though. Time and a more practical sheath from Sisco so I can actually carry one will tell. No question about the chopping ability, but I'd hold that more as a reserve contingency application in the wilds than a common everyday application. I also think the khukri would be a little awkward as a hunting knife, where a smaller straight blade might be easier to work with. That's just me, though, and I freely admit to owning more than one opinion that has no discernible basis in actual fact.
DPris
 
Well, Dpris, It may be time for you to get an HI Bowie, or a JKM1, or the Kumar Karda, all stout and trusty straight blades.:)
 
Ferrous,
I might, but I do have several other straight blades, I kinda like the Marble's Ideal, the Buck Vanguard, the old KaBar, the Ruana, and I've also got a couple Trailmasters & one SRK for bigger straight blades. I'll probably pick up a couple more khukris from HI to have & to hold. Different knives for different roles.
DPris
 
I have never etched mine, but I think the hardening varies a lot on each model. Some the edge seems to roll if you stray even a little bit off the main area of contact with whatever you are chopping. Some seem to be hard in a wider area. My Pen Knife and one non HI I have seem to be hardened all along the length of the blade based on non rolling and the filing test.
 
Thanks, I figured the zone probably would be relatively short, considering the teapot method of quenching the edge. I imagine it would be hard to hold & pour to cover much more than the largest part of the belly.
I tried bag balm on both horn handles last night, incidentally, they both soaked up much more than I'd expected them to. Just a general FYI.
DPris
 
Here's a picture of a villager that I polished, then etched with hot vinegar. The hardened zone goes all the way to the tip, which may be unusual.

Steve

Villager
 
Here are a couple of shots (though not the best quality) of my WWII model in which you can see the hardened area. The hardened part on this one goes all the way to the tip.
Regards,
Greg

051216.jpg

052439.jpg


Edit: Oops, I see Steve put up a better shot while I was working on mine. That's nice work.:)
 
Originally posted by Thomas Linton
Is the blade held point down or point up when the water is used to quench?
Click to expand...
Sideways, and edge downish.

I think.

& I think the pour runs under the edge
to contact the other side.

There's a pic somewhere.

:confused:

Hmmmmmm..........

=========================
Aha!

kami11.jpg
 
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