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hardening 01 steel
- Thread starter gary lane
- Start date
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2005
- Messages
- 1,297
Here is what the label on Starrett O-1 shows:
This is what I do; I heat to 1475 degrees F, soak at temperature for 5 to 10 minutes (with my gas forge and thermocouple I can hold a temperature within 1 or 2 degrees). I then quench in approx. 140 degree AAA quenching oil (Park Metallurgical's). I quench by immersing the blade completely and then agitating it by swishing from edge to spine. I usually do an interrupted quench, tying to remove the blade when its cooled to about 400 degrees F. (If you want to try this, do a search for more info). I then temper at least twice (usually three times) in my kitchen oven at 400 degrees for 1 hour each time.
Please note; This is not the only way to heat treat O-1, nor necessarily the best, but with the equipment I have, it works well for me.
This is what I do; I heat to 1475 degrees F, soak at temperature for 5 to 10 minutes (with my gas forge and thermocouple I can hold a temperature within 1 or 2 degrees). I then quench in approx. 140 degree AAA quenching oil (Park Metallurgical's). I quench by immersing the blade completely and then agitating it by swishing from edge to spine. I usually do an interrupted quench, tying to remove the blade when its cooled to about 400 degrees F. (If you want to try this, do a search for more info). I then temper at least twice (usually three times) in my kitchen oven at 400 degrees for 1 hour each time.
Please note; This is not the only way to heat treat O-1, nor necessarily the best, but with the equipment I have, it works well for me.
Phillip Patton
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2005
- Messages
- 5,363
What Chris said. I would like to add though, that I soak for a minimum of 10 minutes, and I have to temper at 475-500 degrees to get the hardness down to about 59-60.
- Joined
- Oct 21, 2003
- Messages
- 387
http://www.navaching.com/forge/heattreat.html
What do you think about this? Particularly the 15 min from 430F-130F?
What do you think about this? Particularly the 15 min from 430F-130F?
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
Moderator
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2004
- Messages
- 38,393
That is a pretty good general explanation .
Depending on the steel,you can get Martensite or Bainite by that slow cooling. The difference is not a big one to most makers (many wouldn't know which they had,anyway).The big thing that is a real plus in quenching to 900 and slowly cooling to 450 is that you can do most anything you want to the blade in that state. Bend it straight, twist it to remove warp, Whack it on the anvil. whatever - it is very pliable until the Ms point and can be manipulated up to the Mf point.
Stacy
Depending on the steel,you can get Martensite or Bainite by that slow cooling. The difference is not a big one to most makers (many wouldn't know which they had,anyway).The big thing that is a real plus in quenching to 900 and slowly cooling to 450 is that you can do most anything you want to the blade in that state. Bend it straight, twist it to remove warp, Whack it on the anvil. whatever - it is very pliable until the Ms point and can be manipulated up to the Mf point.
Stacy