If the burr removal is the main issue, I don't necessarily think higher hardness plays into that, too much. If anything, greater ductility (ability of steel to deform/bend without breaking) has more to do with that. I've noticed some very stubborn burrs on Case Tru-Sharp stainless blades, and they're only hardened to mid-50s on the RC scale.
Either diamond or silicon carbide (such as wet/dry sandpaper) will make short work of sharpening 1095. Aluminum oxide (ceramics) usually aren't coarse enough for heavy metal removal (re-bevelling), and something like an Arkansas stone may or may not be enough, where the hardness of the steel might come into play.
I have a Moore Maker large sodbuster in 1095, which I reprofiled using a Lansky kit (standard Lansky hones, w/a supplemental 'medium' diamond hone). It was a breeze to get done, and took a razor-sharp edge.
Edited to add:
There've been a lot of posts in the Maint forum, regarding the relative 'fine-ness' of the Sharpmaker's diamond rods. Many regard them as a little too fine for heavy re-bevelling jobs. Haven't heard about 1095 being as much of an issue there, but it may be worth using something more coarse to re-bevel the edge. Some wet/dry sandpaper wrapped around the rods, in coarse-to-medium grit range (220-400) ought to do the job.
